What vegetables do not suffer from late blight. How to deal with late blight on potatoes and tomatoes

Pergola on the site is exactly what can make it original and attractive. Despite the established traditions in landscape design and construction, there is always something new that can please us.

And, although it is difficult to call the “heroine” of our article something innovative, let’s be honest: until relatively recently, very few residents of the CIS countries heard about her, and, moreover, did not seek to build it with their own hands on a site next to a country cottage or on dacha. We are talking about such a design as a pergola for a summer residence or a garden. Of course, it is not as common as the more traditional climbing arch or garden gazebo with a bench.

Arched pergola option

Nevertheless, this garden design is capable, to a certain extent, of replacing all similar structures known to us on the site, including vine sheds, bersos, trellises, rose trellises, arches with swings, and so on.

This is interesting! The correct stress in this word falls on the first syllable: pergola.

Unusual shape will give exclusivity

classic pergola

White color blends harmoniously with the classic appearance of the house

Of course, today there are many different types of these garden structures. However, there is also the so-called classical understanding of what it is. So, according to a more traditional definition, a pergola is a series of arches, usually made of wood.

Modern design with glass on top

These wooden arches are connected by cross beams in such a way that a kind of corridor is formed, which could be located along the path, leading you from one place of the site to another. Moreover, we are not talking about a long corridor, but about a kind of canopy, which plays a rather decorative role.

A small round table and wicker chairs are a great option

The connection of horizontal arches or timber, depending on the design option, can be both more solid and easier, especially when it comes to flower trellises. By the way, not all flowers are suitable for pergolas. It is advisable to opt for long, climbing species plants.

Such a tent will close from both the rays of the sun and from the drops of rain

By the way! You can learn more about which flowers to plant in the country.

Small structure with a swing

Another fact is also interesting. It is known for certain that the very first pergolas for grapes appeared already at the time ancient rome. Over time, they began to be used as a decorative element for plots. Gradually, they acquired more and more new incarnations, becoming more diverse and interesting in terms of design.

Combination coloring is also a good option.

Pergola options: types for different tasks

Round shape: unusual but attractive

Today there are several types of pergolas. Each of these options has its own constructive and design differences, in view of what functional role it should perform. If we talk about how the word "pergula" is translated from Latin, then the main options are "canopy" and "extension".

What could be better than shade on a hot summer day? Curtains also help.

As for the performance of various functions, today a pergola for a summer residence, as well as for a suburban area next to a cottage, can be the following options:

1. A kind of tunnel, which is the closest to the original appearance and purpose of this structure. Rising over garden paths. The design is usually quite simple: this will be reassuring for those who want to learn how to make a pergola with their own hands. It is built for flowers and other climbing plants, for example, for grapes. This allows you to arrange excellent conditions for relaxing in the shade of a kind of "arbor", sitting on a bench under a green vine.
2. Wooden pergola canopy. This type of construction is a kind of tent, because it has a denser upper part. Partial shade will help to better endure the heat. In addition, in such a place you can install a bench for gatherings with relatives or friends. Alternatively, you can equip such a canopy on a playground for children. If we talk about the construct, then to a large extent it can resemble a kind of translucent veranda (in those cases when it adjoins the wall of the house); it can also be located separately from the main buildings on the site.
3. If we talk about such a function as zoning the space on the site, then one cannot help but recall the screen, which is a kind of pergola. If you want to have a fenced place for pleasant and secluded gatherings with your favorite book, then it is not at all necessary to build a full-fledged closed gazebo or canopy. In addition, when choosing one or another place on the site, you can, for example, hide unsightly outbuildings by covering them with a beautiful wooden or forged pergola. You can hide the recreation area from prying eyes, or simply block off the parking place of your car from the place where you used to have gatherings with friends.
4. I would like to recall about such a design as a visor. Generally, these types of pergolas are popular in southern countries or regions. The fact is that it is there that people often face the problem of overheating at home from the sunny side. This is due to the long exposure to the sun. Therefore, such a translucent visor with beams made of timber is used. On the one hand, it takes on a significant part of the sun's rays, and on the other hand, it does not create unnecessary stuffiness or darkening. In addition, if you care about reducing electricity consumption, then remember that in such conditions the air conditioner will “eat” you much less.

And here we see a whole soft corner

It should be noted that most types of pergolas will not be able to save you until the rain, because, first of all, they are not designed for such tasks. However, if you really want to have at least some kind of protection from a sudden surge of bad weather, then there is always the opportunity to mount a small transparent coating on top. It can be cellular polycarbonate, plexiglass or something similar.

Original L-shape

But, at that time, remember that it is not necessary to completely cover the pergola with glass, since it will turn into a canopy, that is, into a completely different structure in terms of idea and design. At the same time, one should always look at how appropriate this or that type will be, not only in terms of aesthetic appeal, but also in terms of how functional it is.

Even such a small home can be transformed!

Tapestry: type of pergola or not?

Modern high-tech style

In general, they are similar, especially in terms of appearance. However, a wooden trellis is different from a pergola, even if it is made of the same material and their shapes are similar. The main difference lies in the functional component.

White color is just beautiful

So, if pergolas perform, first of all, an aesthetic task, and also close from the sun's rays, then the tapestries were originally built as a kind of support for clematis, climbing roses, ivy, grapes and other similar plants.

The fireplace will add more charm

In most cases, a trellis is a type of plant trellis. She can separate one part of the site from another, divide the garden into several sectors, and so on. Its dimensions can also be different.

An example of laying a floor with paving slabs

What to look out for

Arrangement of a large terrace

Before you make a pergola with your own hands or install a ready-made one, which you can buy at a garden center, an online store, or find a company that manufactures such custom-made garden structures, you need to take into account some points.

Small arch over the garden path

Let's list them briefly:

1. Regardless of what it is made of (wooden, aluminum or metal from other types of metal, forged, plastic, etc.), it must be durable and withstand not only the load, but also the long-term exposure to natural factors.
2. If you plan to install a pergola made of wood, then it should be treated with a special protective compound.
3. A pergola for landscape design of a site or a summer house should not look like an alien and detached element. It is necessary to achieve compatibility, regardless of whether it is made or. Buildings on the site may be different, but it is desirable that their style match.
4. Take care of durability. In this regard, a forged pergola is better than, for example, a plastic pergola. It resists better strong winds in autumn or spring, and also does not bend under snow in winter. At the same time, in addition to these pluses, she also has a minus - a rather high price.

Stone supports are expensive, but very beautiful

These are the main points that you should pay close attention to when arranging this design.

wicker plant tent

How to make a pergola with your own hands: step by step instructions

Many owners of dachas, cottages and country houses are interested in the question of how to build a pergola on their own. This is not surprising since pergolas are among the most elegant designs in landscape design. Let's look at how to build a wooden pergola with your own hands, since wood is the most common material for such structures. Let's say right away that we are talking about the construction of an extension to the house, and not a separate building.

On such a bench with pillows, you can even lie down and sleep!

The work will include several main stages. This brief scheme will allow you to build similar structures of any size, from the simplest and very small, to quite impressive "peaks" for the terrace:

• The first stage is preparatory. We prepare everything necessary materials, including timber and, if necessary, lathing and other structural elements, as well as tools necessary for working with wood and fasteners.
• It is advisable to draw up a drawing in advance with detailed pictures and diagrams that will help in the work.
• Having decided what the width of the pergola will be, cut the necessary beams. One of them is attached to the wall of the house with anchors or long self-tapping screws.
• Columns, also known as posts, are set into pre-dug holes. For greater strength, it is better to concrete the holes.
• We mount the second transverse beam to the installed columns.
• We cut the longitudinal beams, in accordance with the drawing. It should be noted that the length of the beams should protrude somewhat outward, as if hanging over the outer transverse beam.
• We measure the places of their installation to the transverse bars and mark them.
• We mount the beams, after which you can additionally attach other decorative elements made of wood. But this is already optional.

Example of a pergola over a terrace

In any case, this is just one of the many options for how to build a pergola yourself. You can get some ideas by watching the video instruction with a step-by-step guide:

After completion of the work, you can do additional arrangement and decoration of the resulting gazebo. So, one of the most attractive options is a white pergola. By the way, for a long service life, as well as for a pleasant and attractive appearance, it is advisable to paint the wooden structural elements with varnish or paint.

Gravel on the ground is a great solution as it quickly absorbs moisture after rain.

Choice of colors

Brown color goes well with the greenery of grass and shrubs.

The creation of a pergola in a country house or suburban area does not end with the construction of the main structure and its painting. Not all, but very many such designs are initially, as planned, or later decorated with flowers or other plants. It could be " hedge» or just individual flowers in decorative pots. It is necessary to select plants for pergolas with the expectation that in different times year, spring, summer and autumn, they will look different. Thus, the whole appearance of this pergola canopy will vary significantly, depending on the time of year.

Wooden furniture looks great: table and chairs

So here are a few short rules to keep in mind:

1. There is no need to select too many types of plants (lianas, flowers, etc.), as this will complicate their care.
2. It is advisable to choose flowers with similar growth periods.
3. It is best to choose perennials that would be unpretentious and resistant to not the most simple conditions cultivation.
4. Those plants that do not tolerate winter well, it is advisable to cover, or take care of their transfer in advance to a place more suitable for this time of year.

Evening illumination with natural fire

One of the classic pergola climbing plants is parthenocissus. It curls well, and quickly enough forms a kind of green "tent", providing a pleasant stay. Specialists in landscape design recommend it, among other things, because autumn months it changes its color, becoming crimson red. It looks very nice.

Potted flowers can also be used.

In addition to it, you can also plant wild or cultivated grapes ( different varieties). However, a grape pergola is not the only option. Honeysuckle, climbing roses or honeysuckle are also beautiful and easy-care plants for such canopies and arches.

Every owner of a country house wants to build a cozy shady corner in his garden. An air pergola is the best for this purpose. You don't know what it is? This is a structure that can be equipped as a separate element or extension to the house. Do-it-yourself pergola is quite simple to create.

Pergolas as small architectural forms in landscape design have been known since ancient Rome. True, at that time their appearance was due to exclusively practical purposes: they were installed on the way to the sources, protecting those walking from the hot rays of the sun.

Pergolas today are most often used as a decorative component and as a support for climbing roses, although, of course, other climbing plants, such as clematis, can also be planted. They will also look very impressive.

As a rule, rose pergolas are designed to be filled with several varieties of this royal flower at the same time. Each of them, wrapping around a separate pillar, gets to the grid that covers the entire structure, from where real cascades of inflorescences will then hang.

decorative function

Without losing its historical function, this building also acquired a decorative purpose. Pergolas for summer cottages help to solve several landscape problems at once:

• • are a support for liana-like plants;
  • protect from hot sun rays and wind, give comfort and a sense of security;
  • arrange a recreation area;
  • allow you to arrange a green corner;
  • decorate the whole garden with their carved appearance;
  • zone the space of a large garden plot, making it cozy;
  • a pergola in the form of an arch, installed on a small area, helps to unite the space.

Do-it-yourself pergolas can be made in the shape that you like and which will most successfully emphasize the architectural and landscape features of the site:

• elongated triangle,
• polygon,
• rectangle,
• sphere,
• arch,
• corridors elongated in one line from closed pergolas.

Varieties of pergolas

So, the pergola, translated from Latin, is a canopy or extension, and this is its main difference from other garden forms, in particular from the gazebo. It is a prefabricated structure of any repeating elements: be it a pillar, column or arch, which are transversely connected to each other.

What type of pergola for climbing plants with your own hands will decorate your backyard, decide for yourself, based on the tasks that you face.

We distinguish the following types of these structures:

What can a pergola be made of?

Materials for the manufacture of pergolas can be:

• tree;
• metal;
• plastic;
• bamboo;
• vinyl;
• fiberglass;
• aluminum;
• combined materials.

Of course, the most popular (price-availability-quality) are wooden pergolas. However, so that the tree does not deteriorate in the ground, it is necessary to isolate it with the help of metal supports-tips and immerse only the metal part in the ground.

In general, metal extensions are more durable, but the tree in the garden looks natural and it is easier for flowers to cling to it. In addition, only from wood can you create uniquely beautiful openwork arches and trellises attached to supporting pillars.

Curly vines are able to ennoble any corner. In natural conditions, nature itself takes care of them ...

How to make a pergola with your own hands

What you need

Making a pergola out of wood requires the following tools and materials:

• hammer;
• chisel;
• self-tapping screws;
• drill;
• wood saw;
• roulette;
• level;
• clamps;
• timber, slats;
• metal staples;
• cement;
• sand;
• roof kit (sail, mounts, rope);
• glue;
• bolts;
• metal bases;
• primer;
• screws.

Preparation

Before starting construction work, draw up a plan that will show the layout of the pergolas and the planting of roses (and / or other liana-like plants that need support).

For installation, select a site with fertile soil, because the plants will need to receive the necessary nutrition. Or prepare a fertile layer of 60 cm. Plant perennials at such a distance from each other that they do not interfere with the wind blowing around them, preventing moisture stagnation and the spread of diseases.

Pergolas are a decorative element that is designed to create a unified style space. You can not design a high-tech crate if your garden is a pastoral idyll.

Think over to which object the wooden pergola you are creating should lead: to the entrance to the room, a fountain or an original sculptural composition.

To add elegance to the space surrounding the house, a garden arch will help. Visually, it creates an interesting focus, ...

Ways

This article will help you answer the question of how to make pergolas for roses with your own hands.

So in front of you step-by-step instruction how easy it is to make a pergola with your own hands.

1. 1. Before you start making a pergola out of wood, dig holes (according to the number of posts in the pergola) 80 cm deep in order to secure the bases of the posts.
   2. Remember that the minimum width of the structure must be 150 cm!
   3. Prepare forms for formwork, fill them with cement and place metal tips in them (you can do without metal tips and place the base beam in cement immediately).
   4. We give a couple of days for the cement to set.
   5. We fasten the beam to the tip with screws.
   6. Fasten wooden beams (beams) with screws or self-tapping screws so that sharp corners form at their junction. This is necessary so that the plants can hold on.

1. We lay horizontal load-bearing beams: we simply screw them with screws / connect them with metal plates / cut out special grooves in the support pillars / use two edged boards instead of a horizontal beam, which are easily attached to the supports with self-tapping screws.
2. With the help of rails, connecting them crosswise or forming a different pattern, we make a crate.
3. Coat all wooden elements of the pergola with a primer.

Nuances

When installing a pergola in the country with your own hands, remember the basic principles of this procedure:

• The pergola should give the impression of lightness, weightlessness, delicacy, regardless of the material from which it was made.
• Consider the size of your site and the size of the planned pergola: there is no place for a small one in big garden and vice versa.


• The height of the entire structure should be no more than 250 cm.
• Try to take into account the direction of the winds.
• In late autumn, winter and early spring, the supports of the structure will be decorated only with dark stems of plants, and therefore make sure that all the details of the structure have a presentable appearance and do not spoil the appearance of the garden.
• Wooden pergolas, as well as metal buildings, must be systematically treated with antiseptics, preventing wood decay (after all, plants need constant watering) and metal corrosion.

Sections for pergolas do not have to be made of wood with your own hands. You can save time and buy at the garden or hardware store ready-made elements and assemble the structure yourself. There is also a system for ordering ready-made pergolas from specialists. In principle, it is not so important whether you make this decoration yourself or buy it. The main thing is that it matches your wishes and the design of the site. Happy gardening!

On their household plots summer residents often encounter various plant diseases, one of which is late blight, a fungus that affects nightshade crops. How to deal with phytophthora? And is there a chance to save your landings from this misfortune?

What is phytophthora and what does it look like?

Phytophthora is a dangerous disease that affects tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, and peppers. This is a fungus that spreads in the middle and at the end of summer if it rains or there is heavy dew. A high planting density, as well as a strong difference between day and night temperatures, can become a kind of catalyst and accelerate the development of late blight.

The disease affects the stems, leaves, and fruits. It looks like blurry brown-gray spots, under which the internal tissues become light brown and unsuitable for food. With severe damage, yield loss can reach 80%.

Phytophthora spores overwinter in the soil. They use infected potato tubers, old tops as a temporary shelter, and the wind is able to spread them over vast areas. Phytophthora is very difficult to get rid of, so it is best to prevent its occurrence.

Seedling processing

Many experts recommend treating tomato seedlings from late blight before planting in the ground. This can be done with Bordeaux liquid or a fungicide that penetrates the plant tissue. But it gets used to the phytophthora fungicide, so it is better to alternate such treatment with spraying with an immunophytocyte. You can also use copper-containing preparations, but this must be done carefully, as they belong to the poisons of the first group. Do not forget about top dressing, because healthy and strong plants resist diseases and pests better. Seedlings can be fed with nitrogen fertilizer and a growth stimulant, and fermented bird droppings are suitable for adult plants.

Prevention of late blight for adult plants

For the prevention of adult plants, treatment with chemicals is used, for example, azophos, oxychome or acrobat. But when the tomatoes begin to bear fruit, it is better to refuse chemical treatment (you can eat fruits treated with "chemistry" no earlier than in a month) in favor of the Bordeaux mixture. It is better to use it once a week and make sure that the greenhouse is dry and the plantings are not too dense (you can even remove excess leaves from the plants for better air circulation). In summer, you can spray tomatoes with a weak solution of manganese or boric acid (it is a teaspoon per ten liters of water). Garlic, whey and iodine also do not like phytophthora, so plants can also be treated with their infusions and solutions. And in the aisle, it is worth sowing green manure - rye, peas or alfalfa, which then "clean" the soil.

Fighting phytophthora is a thankless task, a few secrets from the Mistress of the estate, how to "outwit" her. I plant mostly varieties of tomatoes that are resistant to this disease. And I don’t fool myself with constant treatment. you still appeared. Of course, I also plant varieties that are very susceptible to phytophthora. For example, a bull's heart, everyone loves these fleshy large tomatoes. They can be planted early, under cover, so that they can harvest before the disease appears. from the garden.

How to disinfect the soil?

It is very important to remove leaves and stems affected by phytophthora in a timely manner, and after the end of the season and harvesting, it is imperative to collect and burn the old tops, as phytophthora spores remain in it and in the ground for three or four years. It is not worth treating the soil with chemicals, because they destroy not only harmful, but also beneficial flora. It is better to mulch and lay green manure in the soil, which grow in the aisle, and treat the greenhouses with a sulfur checker.

Resistant tomato varieties

It is impossible to hide from late blight. But you can try to grow disease-resistant tomato varieties - early ripe and hybrid. For example, Siberian early, White filling, Oak, Khabarovsk pink, Cold-resistant, Harvest, Nikola. The least susceptible to phytophthora infection are varieties with small plum-shaped or rounded fruits, which have a smooth skin and a light stalk. On such fruits, dew does not linger, which means that excessive moisture - a harbinger of phytophthora - is not terrible for them.

Not all gardeners know how to deal with phytophthora. But this must be done, otherwise there is a risk of being completely without a crop.

Phytophthora (lat. Phytophthora)- a genus of fungi-like microorganisms disease-causing late blight plants. More than seventy species of phytophthora have been described, but, according to experts, there are up to five hundred varieties that have not yet been described. The name "late blight" consists of two Greek words, translated meaning "plant" and "destroy". Late blight primarily affects nightshade crops - potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers.

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Phytophthora (late blight) - description

Late blight disease, or brown rot, usually manifests itself in the second half of summer, sometimes destroying up to 70% of the crop of tomatoes and potatoes. The causative agent of the disease is the protozoan fungus Phytophtora infestans, which is characterized by the ability to multiply very quickly, for which it is called an infectious plant eater. Most often, the leaves of the lower tier are the first to be affected, but gradually the disease reaches the tops of the shoots. In humid conditions, brown spots appear on the leaves, covered from below with a white fluffy coating - spores of the fungus. Dark brown stripes form on the stems of plants. When the weather is wet, the spots and stripes rot, and when the weather is dry, they dry up. With the development of the disease, the leaves of the plants turn into dry crusts.

Dark areas appear on the peel of diseased tubers, which begin to rot and decompose, and even healthy-looking tubers may begin to rot already in storage.

Late blight spots also appear on the fruits of plants, growing in breadth and depth. Not only mature fruits are affected, but also completely green ones, and even those tomatoes and peppers that were taken from the bush healthy still turn black.

The fight against phytophthora

Protection against late blight (late blight)

In order to avoid the appearance of late blight in the garden and garden, regular preventive work is carried out, including the treatment of late blight plants with chemicals. We will tell you a little later how to spray the garden and garden from phytophthora, but now we offer you a list of agrotechnical measures that will help you protect your crop from this infection:

• grow varieties resistant to late blight;
• observe crop rotation;
• try not to plant nightshade crops close to each other, because as soon as late blight appears on potatoes, after a week or two you can meet it on tomatoes, peppers or eggplants;
• do not allow dense plantings, because one of the reasons for the rapid spread of phytophthora is tightness and poor ventilation;
• another reason is the sharp differences between day and night temperatures, so try to plant seedlings in the ground when all frosts have passed, or find a way to cover the seedlings at night;
• as far as possible, do not allow an increase in air humidity - mulch areas, do not pour water on plants when watering;
• exercise moderation when applying fertilizers, especially nitrogen;
• harvest at the stage of technical ripeness, try not to allow the fruit to overripe;
• remove from the stems all leaves growing below the fruit, and flowers that do not give an ovary;
• diseased plants and affected fruits, without regret, remove from the garden and burn;
• try to beat the disease folk methods, as they are less toxic to plants and humans, but if your efforts fail, choose suitable remedy from late blight from fungicides that are sold in stores.

Phytophthora treatment

Protection against late blight is provided by agrotechnical and chemical methods. We have just introduced you to the agrotechnical methods of protection. As for chemicals against late blight, there are many of them, but late blight gets used to them very quickly, so you will have to carry out treatments, alternating fungicides. The first preventive treatment against phytophthora in the spring is carried out immediately after planting seedlings in the ground. The timing of subsequent treatments of vegetables against phytophthora can be correlated with the behavior of conventional forest mushrooms: as soon as their growth begins, it means that it is necessary to spray the garden from a fungal infection, even if it has not yet manifested itself. Processing is carried out in the first half of a dry, clear and calm day.

Soil treatment from phytophthora

In order to destroy phytophthora spores in the soil, fungicides and microbiological preparations are used. For preventive purposes, fungicides are applied to the soil in early spring, at least a month before planting seedlings or planting potatoes, and microbiological agents can be applied at any time, except during the flowering period of plants, since they can harm the bees. In the fight against the disease, copper-containing preparations from phytophthora, copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, Fitosporin-M, Trichodermin and Ordan, performed well. Work the soil, for example, with a two to three percent solution of copper sulphate, then dig up the area, and then spill the soil with a solution of one tablespoon of Fitosporin in 10 liters of water, spending this amount per 1 m² of area. Plots for flowers or strawberries are shed with a solution of Alirin or Ordan, which is also used to prevent grape diseases.

The treatment of the greenhouse from phytophthora is carried out differently: in early spring and autumn, sulfur bombs are lit in it. When processing, do not neglect the safety rules and try to be as far away from the smoke as possible.

Phytophthora on tomatoes - how to fight

Prevention of late blight on tomatoes

As they say, it is better to prevent late blight on tomatoes than to successfully fight it later, especially since it is difficult to finally defeat late blight. How to protect tomatoes from phytophthora? Plant seedlings of tomatoes in the soil treated from phytophthora, after planting, mulch the area, and as the tomatoes grow, remove their lower leaves and stepchildren. Plant corn, peas, or curly beans around the perimeter of the tomato beds. Preventive treatment of tomatoes from late blight immediately after planting in the ground is carried out by Fitosporin-M or Trichodermin.

Late blight on tomato seedlings

If late blight appears on seedlings, remove the affected specimens, and spill the substrate with Fitosporin-M solution. Or dive the seedlings into a new, sterile substrate spilled with Fitosporin solution, treat the soil in the garden where you plan to plant the seedlings with the same preparation. But do not forget that between the treatment of the site with a fungicide and the planting of seedlings in the ground, at least a month should pass, and if you do not have this time, then it is better to cultivate the soil in the garden with Alirin.

How to process tomatoes from phytophthora

IN rainy summer treatment of late blight on tomatoes will have to be carried out in 4-5 sessions with a break of 7-10 days. The last chemical treatment of tomatoes from phytophthora is carried out no later than three weeks before harvesting. How to spray tomatoes to increase their immunity and resistance to infection? Treatment with growth regulators Exciol (1 ml per 3 l of water) or Oxyhumate (10 ml per 1 l of water) has a good effect on increasing the resistance of tomatoes to the disease.

The causative agent of the disease affects plants not only in open field- sometimes phytophthora in a greenhouse can destroy most of the tomato crop. Phytophthora on tomatoes in a greenhouse is destroyed by the same means as in the open field, but with all the precautions dictated by safety precautions, since it is easier to get chemical poisoning indoors than on fresh air. It should be understood that a single treatment of tomatoes from late blight will not give a result, this disease cannot be defeated at all, you can only suppress its development, but for this you will have to be patient.

Remedies for late blight on tomatoes

Treatment for late blight is carried out with drugs such as Bordeaux liquid, Ridomil Gold, Tatu, Quadris, Baikal EM, Radiance. The solution for processing is prepared in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Late blight on tomatoes can be suppressed only after several treatment sessions with an interval of 7-10 days. And do not forget to alternate fungicides, as pathogens easily get used to drugs. Try to use a stronger drug with each subsequent session.

Potato late blight

Phytophthora on potatoes - processing

Late blight of potatoes has the same symptoms as late blight of tomatoes - spots on the leaves that quickly spread throughout the plant, twisting and drying of the leaves. When potato tubers are infected, hard spots appear on them. How to treat potatoes from phytophthora? To prevent the development of the disease, there is a potato processing scheme:

• for the first time, the tops are sprayed with a systemic fungicide when it reaches a height of 25-30 cm. For spraying, drugs such as 1% Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate (2 g per 10 l of water), copper sulphate (20 g per 10 l of water) are used;
• be sure to treat the potatoes before flowering with Epin, Oxygumat or Exiol, and if the weather conditions do not contribute to the development of the disease, then limit yourself to spraying the bushes with plant resistance inducers - Silk or Krezatsin:
• after a week or two, the potatoes are treated with contact fungicides - copper oxychloride, Efal or Ditan M-45 preparations in accordance with the instructions, but if the treatment is preventive in nature, then the dosage is halved. In case of severe infection, Oxyhom, Ridomil MC or Ridomil Gold MC are used for treatment, and after 10-14 days, spraying with these drugs is repeated. After flowering, potatoes can be treated with Bravo, re-treatment with this drug is carried out after 7-10 days;
• at the stage of tuber maturation, it is advisable to use Alufit for spraying.

Choose a cloudy, but calm and non-rainy day for spraying. And if it rains after treatment, it must be repeated. It is necessary to process the tops of potatoes until it dies completely.

Prevention of late blight of potatoes

In order to protect potatoes from phytophthora, it is necessary to choose the right place for planting it, grow only phytophthora-resistant varieties and carry out preventive treatments in a timely manner.

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Phytophthora is a fungus that can infect all nightshade crops, which include tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants and physalis.

late blight affects any part of the plant, and fruits, and leaves, and stems. The fungus becomes especially active at high humidity, heavy dew, frequent fogs, strong temperature drops, when it is rather cool at night and very hot during the day, as well as with dense plantings of nightshade crops in one area.

Usually, late blight disease is rampant in late July - early August.

Phytophthora needs hot and humid weather to reproduce and thrive. The spores of the fungus germinate well in dew drops, if it is + 25–30 ° outside, then germination occurs in an hour, and at + 15 ° - in three days, in dry weather the fungus will not germinate at all.

Infected plants should be removed by the roots and burned; it is advisable not to eat the fruits from such a plant.

Phytophthora destroyed a tomato plantation

Preventive tillage from phytophthora

In autumn, when cleaning the garden, you need to carefully remove all waste, especially in those areas where nightshade grew, burn the collected garbage outside the site, and dig the soil as deep as possible. We also advise you to follow the rules of crop rotation, you should not plant nightshade in the same places earlier than after 3-4 years.

After outbreaks of late blight, complete soil treatment is recommended, for example, with a preparation Fitosporin , but over the summer it is necessary to carry out the treatment three times, if there is no such or similar preparation, then we process the soil with Bordeaux liquid.
For prevention, it is recommended to spray nightshade crops every 10 days throughout the growing season with the following compositions:

1. For 10 liters of water, add 1 liter of sour kefir.

2.200 g of garlic insist in a liter of water during the day, dilute the infusion in 10 liters of water.

3. Bordeaux mixture.

4. For 10 liters of water we take 1 tsp. copper sulfate, 1 tsp boric acid.1 tsp potassium permanganate. All components are steamed separately with boiling water, then after cooling, mix.

Phytophthora affected potatoes

The fight against phytophthora - the method of selection of varieties

If cases of the spread of phytophthora have become more frequent in your garden, try to avoid this by selecting varieties. There may be two options to choose from, either early-ripening varieties - so that the crop is ripe and harvested before the onset of the phytophthora season, or select varieties that are resistant to this disease.

Preventive treatment with chemicals.

Before the time of late blight activity, foliar spraying of all solanaceous crops with special chemicals to combat phytophthora. These funds are well known to gardeners and can be purchased and sold in specialized stores. Only use them carefully, carefully studying the instructions for use on the package.

But we immediately note that there are no effective chemical poisons to combat phytophthora. Pesticides inhibit the development of the fungus, but do not completely remove it.

How to get rid of phytophthora by non-chemical methods

Very often, experienced gardeners use old folk remedies:
1. We take 40 g of garlic, grind it, add it to a bucket of water and insist for a day. Next, you need to strain the infusion and spray nightshade. Such processing should be carried out every week, the entire growing season.

2. In the season of disease activity, every evening you need to cover a bed with bushes of nightshade crops with a large piece of one of the following materials: Agrofibre, Spunbond, Agrin, Agrotex, Plantex, Lutrasil. Phytophthora infection can be avoided - the bushes will not get wet from dew.

Late blight on eggplant leaves

3. Do the same on rainy days.

4. Mulch the soil with some light-colored material, or sprinkle it with lime, so you will reduce the flow of hot air from the heated surface of the earth.

5. Good results gives the treatment of bushes with growth regulators, as they increase the immunity of plants and, accordingly, increase the resistance to the disease. The following medications are suitable: Oxyhumate - 10 ml per 1 liter of water, Ecosil - 1 ml per 3 liters of water, Epin - 2 ml per 10 liters of water, Epin plus - 2 ml per 10 liters of water or Ecosil VE - 1 ml per 3 liters of water.

6. Another one folk way: when the seedlings of tomatoes or eggplants in the garden get stronger, at a height of 4 - 5 cm from the ground, each stem should be pierced through with a piece of ordinary copper wire, cut obliquely. The copper contained in the wire will not give the phytophthora fungus a single chance.

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