Health

06.12.202027.05.2017

How to properly root a cutting? This question is often asked by beginner growers. Basically there are 2 ways of rooting. The stalk can be put in a glass of water, and then wait for the roots to appear. This is a very simple and old, and one might say, proven method. However, very often you can hear that the stalk in the water is worth a month, another, but there are no roots! What could be the problem? Everything is very simple: not all plants can successfully take root in water. This method is suitable only for the most unpretentious species. In addition, roots formed in water have a very important disadvantage. They are brittle and poorly adapted to contact with air, which is always present in the soil. Accordingly, after planting in the substrate, such roots can completely die, and the plant will begin to grow new ones. You understand that this is an additional risk of failure in the reproduction of a flower. Benjamin's cutting is used as an example.

cuttings of ficus benjamin

First you need to determine which branch can be cut. As cuttings, it is better to use the upper part of the shoot with at least 2 nodes. You can also use the middle part of the branch. This is not important, but from the apical cuttings you can immediately get more decorative plants.

We choose a pot.

The cutting does not yet have its own root system, so it must be very small. You can even use plastic cups. Of course there are large plants. For them, a small glass will not work, simply because it will tip over.

Pot with a diameter of 8.5 cm

The soil for rooting should be very loose. It is better to use store soil mixed with vermiculite. This component inhibits the development of putrefactive fungi. This property is very useful in rooting. It is good to use a fine fraction of charcoal as a baking powder.

A mixture of peat soil with charcoal.

Cutting preparation.

Roots rarely form at the internode, so it is necessary to cut off the bottom of the cutting to the node. More precisely, a little lower. Ficus benjamin secretes milky juice. It must be washed off in a running warm water. In the same way, it is necessary to deal with this type of plants. The fact is that the milky juice clogs the vessels of the cutting, and this does not contribute to good rooting. Succulent cuttings must be dried before planting. That is, put it in a shade for several hours (or even a day) until the cut dries. From the bottom of the cutting, it is necessary to remove the leaves along with the petioles. There are plants in which the leaf blade is very large, so it is advisable to shorten such leaves by half. The stalk will not be able to fully nourish large leaves.

The cutting was planted on 02/28/2018

In general, we have prepared everything, now it remains to plant the cutting in the substrate. It should not be deeply buried, it is enough to immerse only the lowest part. Water the substrate and cover with something transparent. It can be a glass jar, a plastic bag or, in my case, a plastic cup). If you often have to root cuttings, I recommend using a "greenhouse". In the very simple version a transparent plastic container is suitable, which can be closed with a lid and placed in a bright place. More difficult option, but very effective - use an aquarium. In the cover of which screw fluorescent lamps for lighting. The aquarium maintains the necessary humidity and heat, in addition, it can be placed anywhere, as long as the outlet is nearby).

So the stalk stands until signs of growth appear.

Cutting care.

The pot with the cutting must be placed in a bright place, but so that it does not fall into the direct rays of the sun. This is a very important point. From the direct sun, the stalk will “burn out”, and in the shade it can rot. For successful root formation, lighting is required for at least 12 hours a day. It is not difficult to determine that this falls on spring and summer. The soil needs to be kept moist, but it doesn't need to be watered often. If you provide the right lighting, the 1st watering at planting is usually enough. A pot with a cutting covered with a cup retains moisture well in the soil. In spraying, with this method of planting, cuttings usually do not need. You can carefully remove the jar and check the turgor of the leaves. In case of wilting, it is necessary to spray periodically. In almost all plants, the optimum temperature for root formation is +25⁰C. Therefore, I recommend cuttings in spring and summer. Temperature regime Another very important point for successful rooting.

Now I want to touch on the topic of root formation stimulants, such as rootin, succinic acid etc. You have to be very careful with them. The fact is that these substances “age” the stalk in case of an overdose, use only according to the instructions. It is impossible to process the cutting completely, but only the part that is immersed in the soil. In addition, when using stimulants, do not neglect the necessary conditions for root formation. These substances are absolutely ineffective if the grower does not provide the cutting with the correct lighting, humidity and temperature. I very rarely use these preparations, only in the case of those plants that are hard to root, such as roses. And even then, vitalizers, such as epin or zircon, are more effective. In particular, ficus benjamin forms roots very easily, so there is no reason to use "chemistry".

The cutting has the first signs of growth, which means there are already roots. 03/17/2018

As soon as the cutting shows signs of growth, you can be sure that the roots are already there. You don't need to dig it up, shake it up to check it out. I usually wait until the first leaf unfolds and then remove the jar. It is better, of course, to gradually accustom to ordinary air. That is, shoot first for one hour, and then gradually increase the interval.

The first sheet unfolds. It's already open.

After the young plant grows 2 times, you can transfer it to a larger pot. In my case, a transition from 8.5 cm to 10-11 cm is necessary.

Young plant.

Good luck! Successfully rooting a cutting is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance!

Growing plants from cuttings is the most popular method of vegetative propagation.

Numerous manuals have been written on rooting cuttings. But in the process of grafting and root formation, a lot of details are sometimes found that decisively affect the final result.

The easiest way to root cuttings is in a jar of water. Under certain conditions, it can be used even for plants that are considered difficult to root. But despite the simplicity of this method, there are many subtleties on which success depends.

Consider these important "little things".

Bank water change

Not all plants tolerate water changes. Therefore, in order to avoid possible failure, it is better not to change the water in the jar with cuttings, but only add it when it evaporates.
Apparently, some metabolic products necessary for the plant accumulate in the water.
I have repeatedly had to observe the death of passionflower cuttings that have already given roots after a change of water (although the water was well-settled, did not contain any harmful impurities).

Number of cuttings in a jar

The number of cuttings in the bank is also an important factor.
For example, honeysuckle does not want to take root if there are more than three cuttings per 200 ml of water. But one cutting in a jar of even smaller volume, the same honeysuckle perfectly gives roots.

Methods for cutting cuttings

It affects the rooting and the method of cutting cuttings, which is selected depending on the degree of maturity of the shoots.

The figure shows the methods of cutting cuttings.
On the left - a nodal stalk, its lower cut is directly under the node or kidney. This is how unripened green cuttings are usually cut, since the tissues located in this place are more resistant to fungal diseases.
On the right is a section in the middle of the internode. As a rule, this is done when cutting cuttings from more mature (lignified) shoots.

Cuttings, consisting of a bud with a leaf, can be cut from any shoots - green, semi-lignified and lignified.
The upper cut is made as close as possible to the kidney (if possible, without leaving a hemp). The lower one is 2.5-4 cm from the upper one.
Each cutting must consist of:
- a very short segment of the stem;
- one sheet (the other sheet is removed);
- a bud located in the leaf axil.

It would be possible to leave all the leaves on the cuttings. But, being in the water (and, even more so, when rooting in the substrate, when the water supply is limited), the extra leaves dry out the cuttings, which can cause them to die.

Features of the nutrition of the mother plant

Interestingly, the ability of the cuttings to root depends on the nutrition of the mother plant.
If it received nitrogen in excess, then the roots on the cuttings form very poorly.
It is also difficult to form roots in the cuttings of the plant that "starved".

For the most active root formation, the mother plant must be fully provided with potassium, phosphorus and slightly less nitrogen.

The choice of shoots for cutting cuttings

It is important from which shoots the cuttings are cut.
Fattening, powerfully growing shoots give poor quality cuttings. So - do not chase power and size.

Cuttings from lateral, not very strongly growing branches take root much better.

Place of cutting

Illumination of cuttings

Light has a great influence on the rooting of cuttings.
It has been observed that a cutting harvested from a branch during the period when there are no leaves already contains some heteroauxin (which, apparently, decomposes in the light).
If the plant has leaves, it is they who produce the rooting stimulator heteroauxin.

So, the light factor during cuttings affects as follows. A cutting that has no leaves grows better roots in the dark.
To root a cutting that has at least a piece of a leaf left, light is needed.

But even in the light in an opaque dish, the roots form much better than in a light jar.

Bank water level

The level of water in the bank is also important.
If there is too much water, then there is not enough oxygen near the bottom. This can cause rotting of the lower part of the cuttings (after all, roots form only at the border of water and air).

The experiments of the British showed that the roots appear much faster and along the entire length of the cuttings in the bank, if the water was aerated.

Rooting during dormancy

And one more interesting observation: many plants reproduce better during the dormant period.
So, blackcurrant cuttings planted in the ground in autumn take root much better than spring ones (these almost completely die).

Sea buckthorn propagates well by winter cuttings. Sea buckthorn sprigs cut at the end of January or February give roots in one to two weeks in a jar of plain water.

Cuttings of sea buckthorn and many other plants root more readily after being in water with the addition of honey (dilute a tablespoon of honey in a glass of water and put the cuttings in this solution for 6-12 hours).
The main mistake of gardeners during the winter cuttings of sea buckthorn is its too late transplantation into the soil. Roots on cuttings grow very quickly; when they become too long, they break off when transferred to the garden.

Once, in ordinary jars of water, they gave me excellent roots cut in February and March for a bouquet, long branches of yew berry and western arborvitae (about 60 cm long and about a centimeter in diameter). In May-June, all these seedlings with well-developed roots were planted in the ground and took root.

Cuttings in potatoes

A curious method of grafting using a potato tuber, which has become widespread among amateur gardeners.
To do this, take a large potato tuber and carefully remove all the "eyes" from it. The cuttings are stuck directly into the tuber, the potatoes are buried in the ground. Each cutting is covered with a glass jar to create a greenhouse effect.
With regular watering, cuttings in potatoes quickly give roots. Planted in the garden in this way, young plants develop well.

Last year, almost in autumn, cuttings of roses quickly took root in potatoes.
With the use of a potato tuber, it is often possible to root even poorly cutting plants.

This method is quite justified, since instead of water, the cuttings immediately receive a large amount of ready-made nutrients (in particular, carbohydrates, including starch).

The method of cuttings in potatoes arose by chance. One can even guess how. After all, it has long been known that at home it is best to store cuttings for vaccinations in the refrigerator. Stored cuttings are stuck into ordinary potato tubers, wrapped in paper and placed in a plastic bag with holes. Probably, one of the gardeners left the cuttings in the tuber for too long, and they gave roots.

By the way, some flowers can be stored in the same way. In particular, I managed to keep green tulip buds bought in early February fresh until March 4-5. Put then into the water, after three or four days they acquired a normal color and blossomed beautifully.

N. Zamyatina, agronomist of the Botanical Garden medicinal plants at MMA them. Sechenov
http://www.nkj.ru

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Have you seen a plant you like and want to plant the same one? Do you need to propagate your own plant? The old plant has ceased to bear fruit and needs to be updated? How to do it right? This will be discussed in our article, where we list the methods of successful cuttings of plants.

For successful cuttings, it is important to follow five important rules:

The plant must be healthy.
You should not take a cutting from a plant that was recently planted using cuttings.
Cutting tools must be clean.
The stalk must be protected from direct sunlight.
A pot with a cutting planted in it must be covered with a plastic bag or a greenhouse to form a humid atmosphere in it.

Despite the fact that propagation by cuttings on this moment is the simplest and most popular among gardeners, but it is not always possible to maintain the viability of the cutting until its roots appear.

Why the stalk did not take root:

The cutting was taken from a diseased plant.
Tools and utensils were dirty.
Dull scissors made an uneven edge of the handle.
The stalk was planted in poor-quality soil without peat in the composition.
The pot with the cutting was not covered with plastic wrap and was not watered enough.
The stalk was in a dark room or under direct sunlight.
The air temperature was too low or too high. Optimum temperature air should be 20-25 degrees.

Cuttings can be all year round, but still it is better to deal with them in spring or autumn, since many plants slow down in autumn in order to enter again in spring active phase flowering. But some plants, such as a rose, are best taken from cuttings in August. And also you should not cut plants in very hot or dry weather, as the moisture from it instantly evaporates and it may not take root. The most ideal time for cuttings is after rain, when the plant is filled with moisture.

First you need to know what cuttings are:

Lignified - always cut in winter, when it is at rest and no longer has leaves, flowers. With the right soil composition or enough water, it easily takes root and shoots.
Semi-lignified - cut in late summer, early autumn, when the leaves begin to fall off. At this time, it retains a sufficient supply of nutrients, so it takes root well, but it must be kept in a humid atmosphere, as it dries quickly.
Green - cut in spring or summer. This is still a young shoot from a plant that has not yet had time to become woody. Cuttings that appeared this year or last are ideal, since after two years the shoot becomes woody. If the plant is an annual, then any shoot can be cut from it for subsequent cloning. Cutting green cuttings is done either on a cloudy day or in the shade, avoiding direct rays on the cutting.

Step by step cuttings

Selection of shoot for cuttings

If the plant from which the cutting is planned to be taken was poorly cared for, fertilized somehow, watered from time to time, or overfed with nitrogen, then there is a high risk that the cutting will not take root, will rot already at the initial stage or grow frail.

It must be remembered that the younger the plant, the higher the chance of successfully cutting the shoot, especially for plants in which roots grow with difficulty. If the plant roots grow easily, then the age of the parent plant does not matter.

Cuttings from beautiful plants bought recently often do not germinate, as the sellers of these plants spray and fertilize them. harmful substances to achieve a beautiful presentation without worrying about the quality of the roots. Therefore, this plant must be looked after not less than a year, fertilizing and watering it. Then the stalk obtained from such a plant will easily take root.

Choosing a place for cutting and the correct incision

First you need to prepare a carefully sterilized and very sharp knife or scissors, since the stalk will die from a dirty tool.

The place for the cut depends on the cutting itself. In a green shoot, a cut is made below the kidney or node by about 4 mm. In semi-lignified, they are cut between two nodes. If the stalk is covered with leaves, then you can make a cut anywhere. If it becomes necessary to cut from above and below, then the upper one should be as close as possible to the kidney, and the lower one should be about 3 cm below the kidney.

After you have decided on the place of the cut, you need to make an oblique cut with a sharp tool, about 45 degrees. Since from such a cut, the stalk will be able to easily receive nutrients and water. If light cuts are made around the cut, then the roots will be able to sprout from them faster.

Planting cuttings

Depending on the type of plant, you can choose where to plant the cutting: in water or directly in the soil. Plants that easily take root can be placed in water, while other plants that have difficulty growing roots are best planted directly in the soil.

In the case of growing roots in water, it should be remembered that they become brittle and one must be very careful when transplanting them into the soil. And it is undesirable to completely change the water in the jar where the cutting is located, since after that it dies. It is only necessary from time to time to add the missing part of the water and make sure that there is not a lot of it, since there may not be enough oxygen at the bottom of the glass, which can lead to the death of the cutting. It is undesirable to grow more than two cuttings in one glass, since the roots grow reluctantly in cramped conditions. It would be better if each cutting grows roots in its own cup or small jar.

Some plants can be planted not in a glass of water, but with a hydrogel, as it has the unique feature of slowly giving water to the plant. It is convenient in that it allows the roots of the plant to receive not only water, but also oxygen. In order for the roots not to rot, it is better to purchase a hydrogel with a diameter of about 6 mm, since the smaller hydrogel fits snugly to the roots of the plant, thereby blocking their access to oxygen. Before the hydrogel is added to the soil mixture, it must be soaked for two hours so that it swells. Then it will be possible to grow a stalk in it.

There are plants that do not tolerate an excess of water, they need to be planted immediately in the soil. But even here there are nuances. The soil should be poor in nitrogen, devoid of toxic substances, have an optimal pH level for a certain type of plant. And this means that ordinary garden soil is not entirely suitable for this, as it can contain harmful bacteria and fungi that will ruin the stalk in the bud. For cuttings, soil consisting of equal parts of peat and sand is more suitable. For rooting cuttings, any peat tablets in the form of washers of different diameters are ideal.

These tablets are convenient in that they can then not be removed from the handle, but planted directly in the ground. The main thing is not to forget to water the cuttings in time and maintain a humid environment with a plastic bag stretched over the pot. In no case should the soil be allowed to dry out.

Cutting Care

In order for the cutting to be guaranteed to take root, it is important to organize around it not only a humid atmosphere with average temperature at +25, but also the right lighting. For this, fluorescent or LED bulbs, since the direct rays of the sun are contraindicated for the cutting. It is advisable to turn off these lamps at night so that the plant rests a little.

During the rooting period, it is advisable to spray the stalk with water about three times a day, not forgetting to add an epin solution to the water, which promotes rapid root growth. When the roots or shoots grow a little, the plant needs to be hardened off for a short period of time by removing a plastic film greenhouse from it. If the plant continues to grow well, then the film can be completely removed from it over time.

After the cuttings are well rooted, you can start transplanting them into permanent soil. It is only undesirable to rush, it is better to keep the cuttings in water or soil to grow roots than to plant them early in a permanent place where they can die.

If everything is done correctly, then a beautiful, strong and healthy plant will grow from the cutting.

Good afternoon! Today we will consider the problem of rooting cuttings. Tips will come in handy when propagating both domestic and garden crops. Maybe you have long dreamed of propagating something, acquired cuttings, but something did not grow together and the long-awaited roots did not wait. This article will be useful to you, study it completely!

Successful rooting of cuttings. Photos for the article are taken from the Internet

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How to root cuttings correctly

First, place the cutting in water. This is the standard method, although some put it directly into the soil. However, in the first case, we will be able to control the process, this is important. By placing the cutting in a container, we will be able to observe whether the long-awaited root system or the plant will rot.

Helpful Hints:

Pay attention to the dishes. The size of the cutting will play a role here (for example, root violet leaves in a small bubble). Large cuttings will need jars. In order for the roots to form as quickly as possible, the light should be practically absent. In the absence of the rays of the sun, cuttings are formed very quickly! If you took glassware, then you will need electrical tape to make the dishes dark.
Water is very important. It may contain microorganisms that will cause rotting. To avoid the death of the cutting, the water must be boiled. Bacteria and fungus can settle on the cutting. For preventive purposes, use activated charcoal (put it in water, it is a wonderful absorbent).
Water should not be changed during the entire period of formation of the root system. If you change the composition dramatically, your pet will be stressed, the time frame of the result will shift. If the water evaporates, just add it, it is forbidden to change.
To root violet leaves and fuchsia cuttings, you can use an overlay plate. Take foam or plastic, cut out a plate and make a hole in the middle. Put on a container and insert the cutting. So you can control that the cutting is immersed in water to a specific depth. Also, the plate will not allow water to evaporate rapidly.
The number of cuttings in the container also plays a significant role. If some cultures perceive the presence of "neighbors" well, then others tend to suppress the "company". Accordingly, before grafting, it is necessary to clarify distinctive features kind. One of the cuttings may be diseased and infect the rest. Or one will start to rot, followed by the rest. Thus, it is best to place one cutting in one container. Or you will have to constantly monitor the process.

Majority indoor plants can be propagated vegetatively - cuttings, layering, children or division of an adult plant. At first glance, everything is simple, cut off the stalk, stuck it in the ground and wait for it to take root. In fact, such a focus is not always obtained and not for everyone. This job requires experience and skill.

In some people, everything planted grows and prospers, they are called "green hands" in England. Most of us sometimes manage to root a cutting and grow a plant from it, but more often planting material rot or dry out. What you need to know about rooting cuttings in order to propagate your favorite indoor flowers without any problems?

What should be done

Before proceeding with the preparation of cuttings and their rooting, it is important to decide on such issues:

Find out what kind of indoor plant it is, whether it can be propagated by cuttings and read tips on how to do this specifically for this species;
Correctly choose and cut off the cutting;
Prepare dishes for rooting and soil suitable for this plant;
Treat with a root growth stimulator, if necessary;
Plant a cutting and properly care for it.

Some houseplants take root easily and quickly. There are no problems with rooting, zonal,. Large-flowered pelargoniums are more capricious. Almost always successfully propagated by cuttings and. and hard to root. If there is no experience, then it is better to practice on the most non-capricious and easily rooted home flowers.

How to properly cut cuttings.

Rooting in water.

The easiest way to propagate house plants is to cut off a branch, put it in water and wait for the roots to appear. But not all plant species develop roots under such conditions. Many simply rot after a while. Balsam, zonal pelargonium, tradescantia, coleus are usually propagated in water.

What to root? In any small glass or plastic container. In a glass, for example. It is noteworthy that roots appear faster in dark glassware. The cuttings are placed so that the lower part is immersed shallowly. For the formation of roots, the presence of oxygen is necessary, they are formed at the border of water and air. The water level in the glass should be such that the ends of the cuttings are in the water, but most of them are above the water level.

What water to use? Ordinary, from the tap. Some advise taking only boiled, it does not contain microbes, but in fact they are brought there as soon as the stalk is placed in it. A plant cannot be disinfected without killing it. In addition, in the ordinary air of an apartment there are more than enough various microorganisms. Melt water is useful, it does not contain salts and is effective for rooting.

Do I need to change the water in a vessel with cuttings? No, you should not change the water under the cuttings, but you only need to top up if necessary. Often they die after changing the water. Probably, some kind of stable environment is formed in the glass from the waste products of the plant, which promotes the growth of roots. Saintpaulia leaves, passionflower cuttings, which have already given roots, sometimes die after a change of water. Put the tablet in the water activated carbon to restrain putrefactive processes.

How many cuttings can be placed in one glass? A little, 1 or 2. The more capricious the plant, the less. In a large mass, the cuttings usually all die. It is worth starting to rot one, as this process will affect all the others.

Rooting in the ground

Some types of plants do not give roots in water. They can stand in it for a month and not let out a single root, while in the ground they will appear in a week. The general rule is this: plants of swamps and wet rainforest easily rooted in water, species from arid areas are best planted in the ground.

soil for rooting

What soil to use for rooting cuttings? Loose, able to retain moisture well, with neutral acidity. For most crops, a simple mixture is most often used: peat in half with coarse sand. Or another inert soil that is not prone to decay. Perlite and vermiculite, coconut fiber can be added to peat. Sphagnum moss is useful, it has disinfectant properties and retains water well. Too loose soil dries quickly.

soil sterility. The soil for rooting cuttings of indoor plants should not contain fungal infections and insect pests. Many flower lovers steam garden soil, roast or freeze it. It is safest to buy ready-made soil in garden centers and add roasted sand to it. This purchased land is treated with fungicides and insecticides, which reliably protects the plants for a while.

Soil acidity. The acid reaction of the soil affects rooting. Usually they take earth with neutral acidity in the store. Most types of houseplants take root best in it. Hydrangeas need acidic soil, their cuttings root most effectively in soil with a slightly acidic reaction. The general rule for most plants is that the acidity of the soil for rooting should be close to that required for an adult plant of this species, but a little closer to neutral.

Rooting utensils

Disposable plastic cups are well suited for rooting cuttings. If one cutting rots, then the rot will not be transferred to other cuttings. Through the transparent walls you can see the emerging roots. Be sure to make a drainage hole in the bottom of the glass. At the bottom for free flow of excess water, it is advisable to put a little perlite or pieces of foam.

The downside of the cups is their small volume. If you missed a glass when watering, then the cutting may dry out.

Convenient for rooting a large number of cuttings are ordinary seedling boxes or special pallets (cassettes, trays) with cells. In the boxes, moisture is distributed more evenly, the cuttings are more compact and easier to care for.

For small cuttings, plastic food containers with a transparent lid are considered the most convenient option. They are quite rigid, the lid is easy to open when airing, it is easy to make drainage holes in them.

When choosing dishes for rooting, they are guided by the following rules:

If the plant does not tolerate a transplant, take cups;
If there are a lot of cuttings, their survival rate is low - they choose boxes or pallets.

Citrus cuttings, myrtle, oleander are usually planted in boxes. The crowns of these plants need shaping and pruning, after which there are many branches that are quite suitable for cuttings. Not all of them will take root, but some of them will take root.

How to plant a cutting

The question seems simple. At first sight. In some plants, roots grow along the entire length of the stem buried in the soil. The deeper you plant, the more roots you will get. In others, they appear only from a thickening at the cut site, and new shoots will grow from there. This place should not be very deep from the soil surface.

The universal way is to plant the cuttings not strictly vertically, but obliquely, approximately at an angle of 45 degrees. Then the lower end of the cutting is not deep, and a fairly large part of the shoot is in contact with the soil.