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| CityBatken Kirg. Batken
GeographyLocated in the southwest of Kyrgyzstan, at a distance of approximately 240 km west of Osh. The public area of the city is 5,180 hectares. Own territory of the city (excluding personal plots) is 1,143 hectares. The agricultural land of the city is 4,037 hectares, including 1,106 hectares - land of peasant farms, of which 918 hectares are irrigated; FPS lands - 393 hectares, including irrigated - 316 hectares; farmlands - 27 ha (irrigated); personal plots townspeople - 111 hectares (irrigated) and 2400 hectares of pastures. The territory subordinated to the city administration is 205 km, of which 51.8 km are practically within the city limits, and the remaining 153 km are rural areas with 3 suburban villages (the largest of which is the village of Kyzyl-Zhol with a population of 3,207 people), in of which a total of 5,760 people live. Thus, 17,894 inhabitants of our planet live in the area, which is subject to the city administration. StoryThe village of Batken was formed in April 1934 as the regional center of the Batken region of the same name. In 1999, in order to improve the efficiency of managing these lands after a series of attacks by militants, the Batken region was formed from the 3 western districts of the Osh region with the administrative center - Batken. In connection with this, the village of Batken was given the status of a city in 2000, the population of the village in 2000 was 10,987 people. In 2001, 3 suburban villages were subordinated to the city. Administrative-territorial structureAccording to the administrative territorial arrangement the city is divided into 6 quarters - Airport, Rynok-Bashi, Bulak-Bashi, Kelechek, Kyzyl-Don, and Kyzyl-Zhol. Notes
On the website of the Association of Cities of the Kyrgyz Republic Cities of Kyrgyzstan Capital: Bishkek
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On the page interactive map Batken from the satellite. Read more at. Below satellite imagery and live search Google Maps, photo of the city and Batken region in Kyrgyzstan, coordinates
Satellite map of Batken - Kyrgyzstan
We observe on the satellite map of Batken how exactly the buildings are located on Fayzullaev and Kosmuratov streets. Viewing the map of the area, highways and highways, squares and banks, stations and train stations, address search.
Shown here in mode online map Batken city from the satellite contains images of buildings and photos of houses from space. You can find out where the st. Razakov and Aitmatov. Using the Google Maps search service, you will find the desired address in the city and its view from space. We advise you to change the scale of the scheme +/- and move the center of the image in the desired direction.
Squares and shops, roads and borders, buildings and houses, a view of Salikhov Street. The page contains detailed information and photos of all objects of the area in order to show the necessary house on the map of the city and the Batken region in Kyrgyzstan in real time.
A detailed satellite map of Batken (hybrid) and the region is provided by Google Maps.
Coordinates - 40.0608,70.82
It is no secret that the "tsarist" provinces and regions were, on average, much larger and more complex than the motley regions of the USSR. Many in the twentieth century were divided into 2-3 parts, but the undisputed leader here is the Fergana region, which gave birth to 7 regions: in Uzbekistan - the Fergana, Andijan, Namangan regions, in Tajikistan - the Gorno-Badakhshan autonomy and partly the Sughd region, in Kyrgyzstan - Jalal- Abad, Osh and Batken regions. The latter arose in 1999 in the extreme south-west of the country from three districts of the Osh region, and the district village of Batken became its center, elevated to a city on this occasion. Now it is the smallest (15 thousand inhabitants) and the youngest regional center of the entire post-Soviet space.
Well, the Batken region itself is an extremely strange region with insane patterns of transparent borders and several enclaves of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan, such as the one shown Vorukh.
Post-Soviet Ferghana would not be post-Soviet Fergana if even the tiny Isfara Valley had not been cut in half by the border. Batken is about 20 kilometers away, there is very active traffic between them and there is even a full-fledged checkpoint - although without exception (or rather, with one exception - on) all the Kyrgyz-Tajik borders that I saw before were absolutely transparent - I don’t want to go and drive , only blame yourself in case of verification of documents! Nevertheless, the border crossing here is quite busy:
The Turkestan Ridge is very close, and in the ice and dawn rays is it not Skalisty Peak (5621m), the highest point of Gissar-Alay? Remember these mountains, because it was in them that the Batken region was born as an administrative unit.
The shot above was taken on the way back, and we drove into Kyrgyzstan in the evening. Almost immediately abroad - of course, Manas! The Kyrgyz, who never had a hereditary nobility, who did not build cities and did not create empires, have not monarchs and generals at the center of their identity, but heroes of the epic, even on their first visit to Kyrgyzstan near.
Manas himself, or maybe his son Semetey or grandson Seitek, is on horseback, and as I understand it, this is a copy of the monument in Bishkek, opened back in 1980. Below are the other heroes of this longest poem in the world, former time and the chronicle of the Kirghiz migration from Altai to the Tien Shan, and the sacred legend of the Kirghiz paganism, which passed into "folk Islam". A legend, not a scripture, because despite the grandiose volume, until the twentieth century, "Manas" was exclusively oral:
At the road - a stop in the form of a yurt. The Kirghiz diligently emphasize their essence as former nomads, as opposed to the agricultural history of the Tajiks and Uzbeks:
Already quite in the dark, we drove into Batken, which seemed small and ordinary. The two cheapest hotels ended up on a quiet street behind the central park, and one of them, the larger Altyn-Ordo (Golden Horde, by the way!) rooms, to which we had to walk for a long time and with obstacles through the owners' estate, a school and something similar to an abandoned factory. There are other hotels in Batken, but I wanted to save money, and we chose "Altyn-Ordo" as the lesser of two evils, falling into its shabby hall, dark corridors and musty rooms straight into stories about the unfortunate business engineer of the 1970s .. .
Although the chandelier in the room is very beautiful:
Rain drummed at night. In the store, a grandiose drunken Kyrgyz clung to me, resembling a clay golem in appearance and strength, firmly grabbed my hand and began to tell me how wonderful we Russians are, and how he likes to visit us. I carefully tossed in the topic, the story of which required active gestures, thus freeing my wrist from his stone hand, and retreated to the hotel. And the morning in Batken turned out to be gloomy, and snow fell overnight in the mountains hanging over the city. I did not yet know that, and in the next days to see Central Asia cold and rainy.
Opposite the gates of the hotel, behind which, in addition to the main building, there were also tea yurts closed for the winter, a small park begins, covered with fallen leaves. And the first thing we saw in the park was a monument to the heroes of the Batken events - a small war that unfolded in the surrounding mountains at the turn of the millennium. Batken is located very remarkable: incredibly far from the capitals (a day's journey from Osh, two days' journey from Bishkek), but between Uzbek and Tajik. Namangan became a stronghold of Wahhabism in the 1990s, but the "Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan", defeated at home and still banned by Russia, found refuge in Taliban Afghanistan and engulfed civil war Tajikistan. There, the main stronghold of the Islamists was precisely Karategin, which lies literally on the other side of the Turkestan Range from Batken (where there is even the Kyrgyz village of Dzhergetal), and the Uzbek Islamists dispersed through the Karategin villages and gorges with the end of the "hot phase" of the war. Their hopes for the continuation of the war were fading every year, the support of the population dreaming only of peace was inexorably lost, in general, it became more and more clear that sooner or later the Islamists would not be killed here so they would be caught. And so, on July 30, 1999, a company of a couple of dozen barmaley armed to the teeth showed up near the mountain village of Zardaly in the upper reaches of the Sokh River, fifty kilometers southeast of Batken. They did not offend the locals, but only went to them to buy food, but soon it became clear to the Kyrgyz intelligence that higher up the mountains, in the abandoned camp of the Zhyluu-Suu geological party, the path to which was too narrow even for a horse, a whole hornet's nest had formed. The militants kept coming and coming, by the end of August there were already more than a thousand of them, they were holding hostages, and going down to the plain, they captured village after village. Their demand was to provide a corridor to Uzbekistan, to their native Namangan, but even looking at the map it is clear that such a corridor would cut off more western regions from Kyrgyzstan and turn them into a republic of field commanders. Well, jihad was more of an excuse to mobilize militants - the real reason for the invasion, many analysts called drug trafficking and an attempt to create its transshipment point, not controlled by legitimate governments.
8a. Kyrgyz soldier.
Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan, who managed to quarrel over the post-Soviet decade, on this occasion forgot the feuds for a while, especially since the Kyrgyz army frankly could not cope, and helicopters and bombers of the Uzbek Air Force joined the cause (August 15, by the way, mistakenly bombed several villages in Tajikistan, to fortunately without human casualties). The epicenter of the fighting was Kan and Khoja-Achkan, villages at the exit from the Sokh gorge, descending into the Sokh enclave of Uzbekistan populated by Tajiks, possibly the first target of the militants. By the end of September, the Islamists had ceased resistance, and having stolen Kyrgyz cattle (primarily yaks) with them, they left. The end of the Batken war can be considered November 4, 1999, when the hostages captured by militants and taken out by Jergetal returned to Kyrgyzstan. Briefly, the course of the Batken events is set out on Wikipedia, in detail - in the "Central Asian Thick Journal" (there is one!), and, often quite impressive.
8a. captured militants.
But this was not the end: on August 11, 2000, the militants reappeared in the same mountains, on Sokh and Khoja-Achkan, and over the following weeks several dozen times unsuccessfully tried to break into Kyrgyzstan. This time, both sides fought much more professionally ... and more internationally - Russia and Kazakhstan provided assistance to Kyrgyzstan, the shadow of Osama bin Laden loomed behind the backs of the militants, and the war itself was only part of a series of Islamist raids on Uzbekistan from Tajikistan and Afghanistan. The surviving militants went to Afghanistan, where, apparently, they disappeared already in the 21st century in battles with the Americans and the Northern Alliance. It is also not clear why, but literally an order of magnitude less has been written about Batken-2 than about Batken-1, from the information in more detail a couple of lines in the media, I found only the text in the attached Word file. In general, the two Batken wars of 1999-2000 for Kyrgyzstan are surprisingly similar to two Chechen wars for Russia, only on an incomparably smaller scale: the second was more successful, more understandable to the population, but at the same time bloodier - there are 48 names on the monument from the dates of life, and 28 of them end in 2000. All these are citizens of Kyrgyzstan, but two of them have Russian names: in 1999, lieutenant Vladimir Golubev died for Kyrgyzstan, in 2000 - starley R.N. Zayarkov, whose full name I could not find out. They are on the right slab, and on the left are 15 people from the Batken region who died in the 1980s in Afghanistan, in the first of an unfinished chain of interconnected Central Asian wars...
That war never reached Batken itself, but immediately after the first events, on October 13, 1999, in the farthest and most difficult corner of Kyrgyzstan, apparently for more detailed control, the Batken region was created. Judge for yourself: from the capital to here 2 days of travel; of the half-million population of the region, only 74% are Kyrgyz, another 14% are Uzbeks, and 7% are Tajiks, which are completely uncharacteristic of other Kyrgyz regions; 3/4 of the borders of Batkenia are state, and a large part of them are not protected, and on its territory there are 6 enclaves (2 Tajik and 4 Uzbek) with a total population of under a hundred thousand people. For all that, the region consists of only 3 districts, and there are 4 cities in it - in the west, commercial Isfana (not to be confused with Isfara!) And mining Sulukta (both with 27 thousand inhabitants), in the east - Kyzyl-Kiya (44 thousand inhabitants ), a former distant satellite city of Uzbek Fergana. Well, Batken, known as a village since 1934 and only in 2000 became a city, although it is located in the middle, is still the smallest city in the region. But everything is with him - for example, the Batken Regional Music and Drama Theater on the other side of the park, clearly converted from a regional recreation center. Batken is probably the smallest city with a theater in the former USSR:
Opposite - the regional administration. Pay attention to Ilyich - the degree of decommunization of the Central Asian countries is inversely proportional to their democracy:
On the other side of the administration are busts of Kyrgyz revolutionaries that look like new:
They didn’t forget to make even the Park of Obscure Sculptures, so that it’s completely:
Details of the house next door. Batken does not look like a village, but still a small city-district center - but only with "regional" pathos.
Here is the central square with some kind of incomprehensible mesh structure crowning a small building - in fact, this is just a store, and the scoreboard in the "web" is most likely a clock that stopped a long time ago in free and indifferent Kyrgyzstan:
Much more interesting is the figure of Erkindik - the Kyrgyz Statue of Liberty. This one stood in 2003-11, but after the revolution of 2010, someone decided that this was not according to science - the tyundyuk, that is, the dome of the yurt, sacred for a nomad, cannot be held by women, and men cannot be held with their left hand! And from the fact, they say, that there is such a sculpture on the main square of the country, Kyrgyzstan has all the problems! As a result, the Bishkek Erkindik was dismantled, and I thought that they had been evicted to Batken, but no - young regional center just at some point I decided to keep up with the capital, and now the capital's original has been demolished, and the copy in the outback remains:
From this square, in fact, just a ring, an endless bazaar begins. On the one hand - five-story buildings (left behind the scenes) and the old buildings of the collective farm market:
We wandered around Batken, hoping to find at least one bank where I could cash out money from the card - in Uzbekistan, where we had to return, it was almost impossible to do this, and cash remained short until the end of the trip. We did not succeed here either, that is, lack of money was added to the cold.
Here are just a few Batken stories - be it Kyrgyz men in their invariable felt caps:
"Moskvich" of a model unfamiliar to me, who imagines himself a cart:
On Razzakov Street, which turns into the road to Isfara, there is a harsh cinema "October", which, in the event of an invasion of terrorists, could become a city dungeon:
And the memorial of another war, to this day more large-scale and well-groomed:
A house with a beautiful facade decoration on the same street as our hotel:
The gate of the gymnasium, in the back of which is the second hotel in which we did not want to spend the night:
Batken clearly has its own special relationship with Japan. But jokes are jokes, and the First Batken War was accompanied by the capture of 4 Japanese geologists hostage, who were eventually found alive and well in Jergetal.
And on the street overgrown with a bazaar to the very outskirts, leading from the ring with Erkindika to the south, we met the Stoned Eagle:
Next to him there was a nice shop with an even nicer saleswoman - a thin, fair-haired Russian girl of the most intelligent appearance, alas, who did not want to be photographed. In the basement of the store, there was also the only decent cafe in Batken with European interior, Asian cuisine, American cartoons on the screen and quotes from Muslim hadiths on the walls and columns. Other catering establishments in Batken are terrible, of the “you can get poisoned” level, and this is quite unexpected in Kyrgyzstan, where the food is actually the best from the Central Asian countries. Most of all, we were finished off by the fact that even the principle "it's good where a lot of locals sit" turned out to be useless in Batken - the locals seem so used to being served inedible rubbish in a dirty room that that decent cafe, on the contrary, turned out to be almost empty.
Carpets with specifically Kyrgyz patterns:
And sheep directly from the bodies - meat "live":
The gate, it seems, of the local stadium is almost at the exit from the city ... for the former village-district center, Batken is not at all so dull:
We were going to catch a car to Chon-Gara, another enclave, but only at this gate I realized that we were going the wrong way, to the south, but we should have gone east. But Batken is so small that we easily walked from one outskirts to another along a powerful and very picturesque canal with an abundance of measuredly spinning chigirs:
And this, it seems, is not a chigir (the latter pour water from large ditches into small ones located above), but a generator. To the left behind the trees, no more, no less - Batken International Airport! What flies from it, except for government and military delegations, I can’t presume to guess.
And we again came to the bazaar, which seemed to have spread over half the town:
And they found an amazing cemetery there, where crosses are adjacent to mausoleums against the backdrop of a high minaret:
The mosque itself is quite impressive:
And the movement in front of her reminds that the locals are very religious, although in general this is not very characteristic of the Kyrgyz:
And in general, in the atmosphere of Batken there is the same anxiety as in Garm, or - this is another point of tension Central Asia with not too obvious, but felt somewhere in the corner of consciousness, the expectation of Batken-3.
I hardly traveled around the Batken region, although it is interesting not only for its enclaves. Here is the lowest point of Kyrgyzstan (401 meters above sea level), but there are many picturesque rocks in the foothills of the Turkestan and Alay ranges and highlands, nicknamed by climbers Kyrgyz Patognia. These mountains have their own antiquities like the Sokh fortress or several pre-revolutionary mosques, and the picturesque international (!) narrow-gauge railway Sulyukta-Proletarsk, leading along the most difficult profiles on post-Soviet narrow-gauge railways practically to Khujand (but it’s not worth driving along it - there is no checkpoint there, but checks happen!). The local mountains themselves are fabulously rich in all kinds of minerals and ores, the diversity of which is not inferior to the Khibiny (or even surpass them), but the main mineral of Batkenia is the mercury of the Khaidarkan deposit, in terms of which Kyrgyzstan ranks second in the world after Spain, and second in terms of production. after China.
The landscape around Batken is very recognizable - the fertile Isfara valley, from which lone sharp mountains stick out here and there on the Kyrgyz side. The main attraction of Batken itself is Aigul - a very beautiful "Moon Flower" (as its name is translated), a local endemic that blooms in spring near Mount Aigultash, 15 kilometers southeast of the city.
And this is not the Batken region, but the Sughd region - about 20 kilometers from Batken, the road again crosses Tajikistan, in fact, a neutral zone in the deserted steppe east of the last Tajik village of Lakkon. And this is definitely the last shot from Tajikistan in such a long Central Asian series...
Long - but (I don’t really believe it myself) still not endless. The next part will be the last, and it will focus on the enclave of Chon-Gara as the apotheosis of the "border disorders" of Fergana.
FERGANISTAN-2016
, as well as .
Western Fergana.
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. Tajik enclave in Kyrgyzstan.
Batken.
Chon-Gara. Uzbek enclave in Kyrgyzstan.
