Warm summer When we wanted to spend most of our time in the garden, the cold weather came to us for many months. The inhabitants of our gardens fall into a state of peace and patiently wait for spring.
The warm summer, when we wanted to spend most of our time in the garden, is behind us; cold weather, snowfalls and cold winds have come to us for many months. At this time, we are especially pleased to feel the warmth of home. But the inhabitants of our gardens plunge into a state of peace and patiently wait for spring.
Winter is the most serious test for plants in our harsh climate. For trees and shrubs this is much more important than for herbaceous plants, since their buds are located high above the ground, are not protected by snow cover and are therefore exposed to winds and frost. In order not to be disappointed in the spring when you see dead or severely damaged plants, you must follow several rules.
Firstly, the main thing is to choose a frost-resistant assortment, plants that tolerate our winter conditions well. The quality of planting material also plays a very important role. Plants must have a well-developed root system that is not damaged during digging and transportation. Sometimes in the production of planting material technologies are used for faster plant growth, using excess amounts of fertilizers and stimulants. Therefore, purchase planting material needed only in well-known, reputable nurseries.
Much to our chagrin, there are unscrupulous people among plant suppliers and sellers. Indeed, now you can find large quantities of exotics doomed to death on sale. Moreover, the labels often have ridiculous names, and the seller cannot answer customers’ questions or, even worse, provides incorrect information. Many times already we have had to go to areas where the owners in the spring discovered sad skeletons instead of expensive and very beautiful plants purchased at the market.
Secondly, we need to help the plants go into a dormant state. In the second half of summer, young shoots stop growing in length and begin to become covered with bark, which protects the branches in winter. Branches on which bark has not formed will not survive until spring. This happens with southern plants, which have a longer growing season and do not have time to go through it during our northern summer. From the end of July, you cannot feed trees and shrubs with fertilizers containing nitrogen, which stimulates growth. To prepare for winter, they need potassium and phosphorus (fertilizer doses should be read on the package).
Thirdly, it is necessary to cover the plants that were planted this year and must undergo acclimatization. Then the plants adapt and they no longer need shelter. This applies to trees and shrubs brought from warmer places. Some, especially delicate plants, such as rhododendrons, are covered every year. This, of course, adds trouble to the garden, but the flowering of these plants is so brightly unusual and exquisite that all the labor and time spent is paid off by the joy that we receive from contemplating this flowering.
Sheltering is carried out when the air temperature at night drops to –15 C. This usually happens in mid-November. You should not do this earlier, since the plants need to get a little hardening and get used to low temperatures. They are not afraid of night frosts, nor are slight frosts (-5 C) dangerous. The main covering material is spruce spruce branches; nothing better has been invented yet. It helps accumulate snow, which protects the plant from severe frost.
An experiment was carried out in the Botanical Garden of Moscow State University named after M.V. Lomonosov: they measured the air temperature under the shelter and outside it. Under shelter, the temperature did not drop below -5 C, even if it was -30 degrees below zero. Under such shelter, plants do not overheat when thaws occur and temperatures above zero in the middle of winter. When it was -5 C outside, under the shelter -3 C, but if the air temperature dropped to -32 C, under the shelter it was not lower than -5 C. However, if there is no snow. The temperature under the shelter is almost no different from the temperature outside it.
Mice love to play pranks in such cozy huts in winter. These small rodents eat the bark of trees and shrubs, which sometimes, when the bark is damaged along the ring, leads to the death of the plant. Mice especially love fruit trees. You have to place the poison under cover. The most convenient way is wheat grains treated with poison. They can be purchased at hardware stores and garden centers. Another event that prevents mouse lawlessness is trampling the tree trunk circles. Compacting snow prevents small animals from getting to the trunk and damaging the plants.
The shelter should under no circumstances damage or break plant branches. Therefore, it is recommended to first carefully tie the spreading bushes with twine, then wrap them in burlap and only then cover them with spruce branches in three layers. Fragile plants cannot be tied; special frames are prepared for them, which are covered with burlap and covered with spruce branches. For rhododendron bushes these can be cubes, and for young Christmas trees - pyramids with three or four sides.
Frosty, snowless winters pose a great danger, when even good shelter may not save plants from damage. It’s not scary if the frost lasts 1-2 days, it’s bad if it lasts for a long time. Therefore, it is better to place those plants that require shelter in places protected from the wind, where more snow accumulates.
The spruce branches should be placed in such a way that the upper side of the spruce branches, where the needles are thicker, which means they will accumulate snow better, looks up. The spruce branches are also secured with twine.
The branches and buds are adapted to withstand severe frosts, which cannot be said about the roots. They suffer greatly during snowless winters, so we must try to accumulate snow on the tree trunks. The same spruce spruce branches can help a lot with this.
Frost cracks can form on exposed tree trunks. To avoid this, they are covered with garden whitewash, wrapped with nylon tapes or spruce branches.
In the spring, when the temperature reaches 0 - +5 C and the snow begins to melt, the shelter is removed. This usually happens in the second half of March. There is no need to open the plants immediately, it is better to do this gradually, first remove the spruce branches, and after a few days the burlap.
To cover plants in winter, you cannot use lutrasil (spunbond, agrotex) - a lightweight non-woven material of white (or black) color. This material is, however, suitable for protecting plants from spring frosts. Its structure is such that, while letting heat in, it does not release it back. In winter, plants under such shelter suffer from overheating. Unfortunately, cases of death of plants covered with lutrasil are not becoming less frequent, and very often we have to explain to perplexed people that their plants did not freeze, but burned. Interestingly, the death of coniferous plants may not be immediately noticeable. At first, when they are freed from lutrasil, beautiful pine trees, decorative fir trees, junipers and thujas look very fresh and lively, but after a couple of weeks their needles begin to wither and then fall off all at once. Once we had to see such a sad picture in the village on Rublevka, when all the evergreen plants covered with lutrasil died, and if they remained alive, they irretrievably lost their shape and attractiveness.
Fourthly, danger threatens plants even when winter is already ending and the frosts are left behind, when the sun becomes brighter. This primarily concerns conifers, which suffer from sunburn in the second half of winter. Bright light is amplified by reflection from the snow and damages the needles. You can protect plants from the sun using burlap, in which the crown is simply wrapped. You can remove this cover when all the snow has melted. After a few years, the plants will adapt and will not need to be covered.
We can’t help but talk about how the lawn overwinters, because these are also plants. Lawn grasses also cannot be fed with nitrogen fertilizers starting in August. From now on, you can only give potassium and phosphorus, elements that help plants prepare for winter. You should not mow the lawn before the onset of winter; let the grass 8-10 cm long go under the snow. Just like for woody plants, the best protection against frost for a lawn is a soft blanket of snow. In rare cases, when there are strong thaws and the snow melts, an ice crust may form on the surface of the lawn, which must be broken, because it does not allow the grass to breathe. And of course, it is unacceptable to set up an ice skating rink on the lawn.
It's not winter at all sad time in the garden, it also has its own special charms, because nature is beautiful at any time of the year. When else, if not in winter, can one appreciate the harmony and majesty of tree crowns not hidden by foliage. I just want to take paper, black paint and capture the picturesque graphics of the branches. There are plants that delight us in winter with unusually colored bark, bright fruits that remain on the branches for a long time and invite birds and squirrels to our gardens. To ensure that these cheerful guests visit you more often, place feeders in the garden and do not forget to add grains, seeds and nuts to them.
Our people like to do everything themselves: build a house, decorate the interior, plan a garden, arrange a lawn, buy and plant plants. But we highly recommend that everyone at least invite specialists to select an assortment of plants. And be sure to get advice from them about planting and caring for these plants. This will help you avoid the risk of buying a non-winter-hardy plant, making mistakes when planting it, will ensure the survival of trees and shrubs, and you will receive only joy and pleasure from your garden and never disappointment and annoyance.
Non-winter-hardy plants that can be found
in garden centers in Moscow and the Moscow region.
Fortune's euonymus – Euonymus fortunei
Common privet – Ligustrum vulgare
Buddleja Davidii - Buddleja davidii
Black elderberry – Sambucus nigra
Syrian hibiscus – Hibiscus syriacus
Large-flowered hydrangea – Hydrangea macrophila
Lowsen's cypress – Chamaecyparis lawsoniana
Acer palmatum
Japanese maple – Acer japonicum
Tree hazel – Corylus colurna
Large hazel – Corylus maxima
Common holly – Ilex aquifolium
Pyracantha angustifolia
Crown broom – Cytisus scoparius
Evergreen boxwood – Buxus sempervirens
Griffith pine – Pinus griffithii
Japanese Sophora – Sophora japonica
Thuja plicata
Bird cherry – Padus serrulata
Ph.D. biol. Science Svetlana Chizhova
Based on materials from landy-art.ru
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Since we do not live in the tropics or even the subtropics, our winters are quite harsh. And not only we, people, at this time need to take shelter from the cold, wind and other unpleasant manifestations of the weather. Many plants also need certain protection, which allows them not to die during the cold season. To find out which garden crops need to be covered for the winter, read the article further.
Why cover plants for the winter?
To many experienced gardeners This question will seem rhetorical, which cannot be said about those who are just learning the wisdom of gardening. Although even people with considerable experience can find something useful for themselves in this article. Let's consider all the reasons why garden plants need winter shelter. By the way, we have already mentioned them in the article “”.
After the end of the growing season, the task of any gardener is to provide the crops with optimal conditions for a successful overwintering. Since not all plants growing in our gardens can survive certain winter conditions without consequences, it is the direct responsibility of the caring garden owner to find out in advance about potential problems and act proactively. In other words, you need to properly prepare the plants by creating reliable shelters for them.
Factors that make it necessary to cover garden crops:
- Frosts/ low temperatures . Not all crops can withstand prolonged exposure to low temperatures. By the way, even individual branches of mature trees of frost-resistant varieties can freeze out.
- Winter winds. Winds in winter can cause damage and even death of shoots. They aggravate the effects of frost and enhance the negative effect even with slight drops in temperature, simultaneously drying out the plants.
- Sudden temperature fluctuations. In winter and early spring, temperature changes can cause significant harm to garden plants. In order to avoid such consequences, it is necessary to properly cover crops sensitive to this factor.
- Damping off. In addition to winter crops, this phenomenon can destroy cultural scions of trees and various shrubs (both ornamental and garden). Damping off occurs under a layer of snow or under an ice crust, where air does not flow. Because of this, destructive processes occur in plants. Basically, crops are damped out during thaws, when at elevated temperatures they come to life and begin to breathe. Damping off and rotting can occur not only with the upper part of the plants, but also with the roots if water stands in the hole for some time.
- Snow. A layer of snow can break the branches of trees and bushes. Most often, this danger lurks in conifers (due to the shape of the branches that retain snow).
- Rodents. Mice and hares can damage garden plants irreparable harm. Young trees are especially sensitive to this factor. Rodents eat the bark, which can lead not only to delayed development and the need for healing, but also to the death of plants.
- Sunburn. They can damage plants in early spring, when the sun becomes more active. At this time, trees and shrubs are sensitive to it due to the sharp contrast - it is still cold at night, and during the day the sun's rays are no longer as soft as they were in winter. Coniferous and fruit crops are susceptible to sunburn.
Coniferous plants
Today, not all coniferous plants on the market can safely withstand winters in the middle zone. They feel best in the south of Ukraine, and in other regions they need good winter shelter. This is explained by the genetic properties of varieties bred in European countries(most of them have a milder climate). Such plants may suffer damage to the crown and roots. To avoid this, you should first of all buy zoned varieties, and be wary of spontaneous markets and hobbyists who independently breed garden plants. The best solution is a trusted nursery, where they will tell you about all the biological characteristics of the crops they sell.
But even zoned varieties may require mandatory preparation for winter in order to avoid damage that could negatively affect their health and decorative qualities. Covering coniferous plants should begin with mulching the tree trunks. The mulch layer should be at least 5 cm so that the roots are reliably protected from frost. This technique is especially important for young plants that have not yet developed powerful root system. Their roots are located relatively close to the surface of the earth.
Mulching is best done using organic components (wood shavings or bark). You can add mulch in two layers - compost plus the mentioned organic matter. If there is a large mulch layer, it must be removed in the spring so that the soil warms up in time, there is no damping off and the plants do not lag behind in development.
Coniferous trees may require wrapping of a spreading crown, which makes it compact (not falling apart). This technique protects the branches from damage by snow - they do not fall under its weight and do not break. You need to wrap the crown with ropes (twine). Wearing gauze, burlap or shade netting is not advisable because coniferous trees photosynthesize even in winter.
Shading should be done in early spring, when the sun becomes more active. A wooden frame built in the shape of a pyramid is most suitable for this - the plants receive enough light and do not suffer from burns.
In regions with harsh winters, only zoned varieties of conifers that are frost-resistant should be planted. You should not experiment, trying to “start” something exotic on your site. The majority of unpretentious conifers include, and.
To one degree or another, many metasequoias are sensitive to harsh winters. These plants will have to be completely covered with spruce branches or a shelter built for them from other materials. The main thing is that there is air under the covering hut and that the trees are not tightly wrapped with covering material.
Roses
Roses traditionally occupy a special place in any garden. These are the flower queens who demand proper care, for which they thank for their delightful flowering and fragrance. They need mandatory winter shelter, regardless of the type and variety. Shrub, standard or climbing roses must be protected from frost to protect the shoots from damage.
For the winter, they are pruned, hilled and covered with available materials. And (those with long shoots) - first they bend them to the ground and secure them with staples, and then they make a shelter. Roses can be covered with spruce branches, agrofibre, leaves and other materials, be sure to leave room for air to enter so that they do not rot.
In spring, you should not rush to clean the shelter so that the roses do not receive damage from low temperatures and sunburn. This should be done when positive temperatures have already established. The optimal time to remove the cover is in the evening or on a cloudy day, when the sun is not so active.
Clematis
These magnificent flowers are deservedly loved by many gardeners and designers. Richly blooming clematis can transform any space - from a small corner to an entire garden. But growing them requires knowledge and experience. And although in general clematis can be called quite frost-resistant, it cannot be done without special care. After all, these plants came to us from warm regions. In winter, they must be protected not only from frost, but also from other negative factors that can damage both individual shoots and entire bushes.
Divided into three groups of varieties that bloom in different time– these are early-, mid- and late-flowering representatives. They require different pruning. You should only grow a group suitable for your climate. For example, in the northern regions it is better to plant in medium-flowering clematis, which form buds on new shoots. You can find out exactly whether a variety is suitable for cultivation from sellers or on the Internet. Before purchasing, be sure to clarify this issue.
Depending on the flowering group, clematis pruning is carried out differently. As a result, bushes can be low, medium and high. Depending on this, they are prepared for shelter in different ways. The easiest way, of course, is with low, heavily pruned bushes. They are hilled up and covered with available materials. Taller bushes are placed on a specially prepared cushion of branches, boards or pieces of pine needles so that they do not come into contact with the soil during thaws, do not get wet or damp out. By the way, in the spring all needles must be removed so that they do not acidify the soil - clematis do not like this.
When covering clematis, you need to leave ventilation gaps on both sides so that under the layer of covering material (which can be spruce branches, burlap or agrofibre) conditions are not created for the plants to dry out. If you neglect this, then at a minimum, mold will appear on the shoots. When using film as a covering material, it is necessary to shade the entire structure from above. This can be done using boards or slate. By the way, it is better to put them in any case to create additional protection from snow and rain.
The most hardworking gardeners make special covering structures for clematis from slate or boards that can be used repeatedly. In appearance, this is a box of appropriate sizes. In the case of winters with little snow and thaws, you need to check whether water has entered the shelter area and, if necessary, place branches and boards under the shoots so that they do not freeze in the ice in the future. In addition, it is important to protect clematis from rodents, which can significantly damage the bushes. When traces of mice appear or for prevention, poisoned baits should be scattered in the shelter area.
Fruits and berries
First of all, most trees need shelter from rodents, which can severely damage the bark. This is especially important in the first years after planting, when the trees are still small with delicate bark - rodents can destroy them completely. In this case, protection is carried out by wrapping the lower part of the barrel with various materials.
Crops and varieties sensitive to low temperatures also need winter shelter. These can be heat-loving (even zoned and relatively more stable) and other crops. Young trees, which are characterized by increased susceptibility to cold and wind, are often laid on the litter, completely covering the entire crown. In addition, they can be completely wrapped with covering material without bending. True, such shelter must be done wisely, since such care can result in damage and even death of trees.
Agrofibre or burlap can absorb moisture and, when wet, form an ice shell around a tree or bush. And this, to put it mildly, is not the best protection for plants. The best option is either covering with spruce branches and reeds, or creating a frame (from sticks, slats or metal mesh) and using non-woven materials with mandatory air gaps, without contact of the material with the branches.
Fruit and berry bushes are covered in the same way as clematis or roses. Representatives such as blackberries and others may need shelter. The need for protection from negative winter factors is determined by the growing zone. So, in the northern regions, most plants need to be covered, in a temperate climate only a part, and in the south only a few and only in the case of atypically cold winters.
A flowerbed can be beautiful all year round. The basis of its composition is made up of perennials; in winter such plants do not need to be dug up, they live in one place for a long time and are unpretentious in care. There are a lot of them, but not all are particularly popular among gardeners.
Pros and cons of wintering perennials
The main advantage of perennials in the garden is their ability to tolerate low temperatures in winter, which makes the maintenance process easier. There is no need to dig up rhizomes and store them in winter. With the arrival of autumn, the shoots of most plants die, and next spring young branches grow back from the roots. Some perennials remain green throughout the year. But these are not all the advantages of wintering plants:
- The need for replanting occurs once every 3-4 years, when the bushes grow greatly.
- The abundance of species and varieties allows you to decorate a flower bed, create a rockery or alpine slide, or design a mixborder or the shore of a pond.
- Easy to grow, there is no shortage of planting material, and there is no need to tinker with seedlings.
In addition, growing wintering perennials significantly saves time in the spring, when the gardener already has a lot of work.
There are practically no disadvantages to perennials, with the exception of particularly heat-loving species that need to be well mulched for the winter. When growing, a gardener may encounter problems such as diseases and pests. Perennials require preventive measures and spraying throughout the season.
Popular perennial flowers wintering in open ground
Flowers that can reproduce by bulbs, corms, rhizomes and necessarily overwinter in open ground- these are all perennials. Below is a description of the varieties and photos of the most popular plants in winter. These are low growing, tall growing, ground cover flowers that are grown in sun or shade.
Tulip
This flower is a bulbous perennial, the most popular among gardeners. In spring, its buds are among the first to open and delight with bright colors after winter. Tulips reproduce by daughter bulbs; 2-3 years after planting, a whole nest of ready-made children is formed. At this moment they need to be planted, otherwise flowering will be sparse or stop altogether. To do this, after the peduncle withers, the perennial bulbs are dug up, dried and stored in a dark place until autumn. Tulips are planted at the end of summer. The timing differs in each region, but 2 weeks should remain before the expected frost. During this time, the bulbs will have time to take root and survive the winter well.
The tulip tolerates winter well, it is not afraid of low temperatures, but for this it needs to be planted correctly. Large bulbs are planted at 3 heights. The larger the planting material, the deeper it is planted. Small children are planted shallowly, but the bed is mulched for the winter.
Attention! The main problem when growing tulips is mice. They eat bulbs in winter, so planting material must be protected.
Today, many varieties of this beautiful perennial with varied petal shapes and sizes have been developed. Parrot and peony tulips look especially beautiful.
For owners of small plots, you can choose tulips that grow in bouquets. One bulb produces a whole heap of flowers. Such varieties are called multi-flowered. They can be two-color, terry or plain.
Antemis
Antemis or navel is a rhizomatous perennial native to Europe. Today the plant has more than 200 varieties. The bush is branched, dense, looks good even without flowers. It will grow more than 50 cm. Flowering of anthemis begins in early summer and continues until autumn. The flowers are golden yellow with a pleasant aroma. There are a lot of them on one plant.
Anthemis is not covered for the winter; it resists frost well. Suitable for creating rock gardens, rockeries, borders or as a solitaire. The perennial fits well into any composition.
Chrysanthemum
It is a rhizomatous perennial of the Asteraceae family. It grows everywhere, China is considered its homeland. However, experts claim that the garden chrysanthemum appeared from crossing small-flowered Indian and Chinese chrysanthemums. The flower is presented in a huge number of varieties and species, the breeding of which continues to this day.
The most popular are low-growing perennial chrysanthemums, which will decorate the sunny side of the garden and the path to the house. Special attention conquered the Varvara variety.
Chrysanthemums can be grown on any soil, but swampy soil is not suitable. The plant prefers abundant watering, but the soil should dry out between waterings. The perennial responds well to fertilizing, which is best applied in liquid form.
In order for there to be many flower baskets on the plant, like a spherical terry variety, the bush needs to be shaped. The shoots are pinched so that they branch better and bloom profusely.
Tree peony
Tree peony is a beautiful perennial that tolerates winter well, but prefers to grow on the sunny side of the site. The bush is tall, covered with flowers in May, flowering lasts about a month.
Terry varieties of tree peony look especially beautiful on the site, the flowers of which become larger every year.
No less interesting are perennial varieties with semi-double inflorescences, the wonderful aroma of which spreads throughout the garden.
Warning! Tree peony prefers loose soils with low groundwater levels.
Tree peony is used as a tapeworm or in the company of other plants, such as lavender or calendula. The perennial tolerates winter well.
Clematis
This perennial belongs to the Buttercup family and has more than 300 species, which are very different from each other. These can be vines, shrubs, subshrubs or herbaceous plants. Flowers of various colors and petal shapes. There can be large, small, terry and simple. All these plants have in common the persistent smell of jasmine, which appears during the flowering of clematis.
Clematis of the Florida group is especially popular among gardeners. A striking representative of the Vyvyan Pennell variety. This is a vine over 3.5 m in height, the flowers of which reach 15 cm in diameter. The color of the petals is bright lilac.
Clematis Lanuginosa is no less attractive. The liana reaches a height of 2.5 m, flowers are at least 20 cm in diameter. The petals are colored white, blue or pink color. Blooms 2 times a year. In spring, buds appear on last year's shoots, and in autumn - on current year's branches.
Very beautiful variety- Madame le cultre. The first flowering begins in July, the flowers are white. Frost resistance is average; in winter the ends of the shoots may freeze.
Lily
Lily is a bulbous perennial. In spring, a stem about 30 cm high grows from the bulb, at the end of which a bud forms. The flowers are varied in color and shape, collected in inflorescences or solitary. Life cycle one flower for no more than a week.
Asiatic lilies are characterized by high frost resistance, they are unpretentious in care, and flowering occurs in early summer. These are beautiful hybrids, the height of which reaches 50 cm. The flower is cup-shaped and can be double. Flower diameter – no more than 20 cm. Popular variety Asiatic lily- Adeline.
American lilies tolerate winter tolerably, but can suffer from severe frosts. There are more than 150 varieties of various colors. They bloom in mid-summer and prefer well-moistened soil. Look beautiful in the garden.
Rose
Garden rose prefers planting in the sunniest areas. The soil for growing must be fertile; clay soil is not suitable. The groundwater level should be low; the root system needs it.
Hybrid tea roses deserve a place in the garden. Especially unpretentious and beautiful shrubs. They bloom throughout the summer until winter.
Recently, the floribunda rose has been in demand among gardeners. It blooms profusely and continuously throughout the season, rarely gets sick and resists pests well. Decorative perennial flowering.
IN landscape design Climbing roses are widely used. They decorate gazebos, arches, and pergolas. With the help of these roses, the area can be divided into zones. From the outside it looks attractive.
Important! Climbing roses tolerate winter especially well and bloom on shoots of the previous and current year.
Primrose
This perennial belongs to the Primrose family. There are many varieties of it, which differ in flowering time and flower color. Today, primroses are popular, pleasing to the eye not only in spring, but also in autumn.
Perennial primrose is characterized by compact dimensions, the rosette of leaves is embossed, swollen between the veins. The leaf blade is pubescent, dark green. Peduncles up to 25 cm high, grow from the center of the rosette. At the top there are umbrellas with flower baskets. Flowers correct form with five petals, the center is almost always yellow. The petals themselves can be variegated or plain. Flowering duration is 3-8 weeks. At the end of flowering, primrose produces small seeds that can be used for planting. It is easier to propagate perennials by dividing the rhizomes.
Today, more than 400 varieties of primroses are known, which are divided into 38 species. Primrose vulgaris is especially popular among lovers. Its flowering begins in April and continues until June.
Based on the common primrose, terry varieties of perennials were bred, which amaze with their beauty. The Rosanna variety is especially popular, which combines several varieties with white, pink, yellow, apricot and red petal colors. Terry varieties tolerate winter tolerably.
Echinacea
This perennial tolerates frosty winters well. It is used as a decorative and medicinal plant. Flowering is long lasting. If the weather is warm, then bright baskets can be seen as early as October. The first flowers bloom in early summer.
Lupine
Lupine looks very elegant in a flower bed. This perennial forms quite powerful bushes and blooms profusely and for a long time. The plant is undemanding when it comes to soil and lighting and thrives in partial shade, on poor soils and rocky soil. However, abundant flowering can only be observed in an open sunny meadow, where the soil is rich in fertilizers.
All varieties of lupine tolerate winter well, easily recover and reproduce. To do this, you do not need to take complex actions; it is enough to plant seedlings that have formed from self-seeding, or divide an old bush.
Phlox
Subulate phloxes are often used to decorate paths, the edges of flower beds, or in single plantings. Medium-sized perennial bushes, pointed, green leaves. The flowers are small, the petals are white, pink, blue or purple. The flowering period is long, after which the bushes remain decorative until autumn. Phloxes are not dug up in winter; they tolerate the vagaries of the weather well, are easily restored and simply reproduce.
Iris
Iris is a rhizomatous perennial. Its flowers come in different shades and smell pleasant throughout the entire flowering period. It lasts from May to mid-July. The perennial prefers well-fertilized and loose soil. In summer, it is watered abundantly and weeds around the cuttings are removed. The soil should be loosened shallowly so as not to damage the surface roots.
Irises tolerate frosty winters well, but if there is little snow, it is better to additionally cover the exposed roots with spruce branches, peat or sawdust.
There are a lot of varieties of irises, all of them are easily propagated by parts of the rhizome. Perennial cuttings are planted in September so that they have time to take root well before winter, or in March, after which they are well fed.
Astilbe
This perennial is a worthy decoration of the garden. It is planted in company with low-growing plants or evergreens. Bushes look elegant not only during the flowering period. Openwork leaves of astilbe fit well into any composition. The shrub blooms from early summer until autumn. Spike-shaped panicle inflorescences rise above the plant and decorate the area with a variety of colors. In general, astilbe is an unpretentious plant, but prefers fertile soil and abundant watering. However, the perennial does not tolerate stagnant moisture.
perennial aster
The perennial aster decorates the garden in the fall, when its daisy-like inflorescences bloom. Aster petals are colored blue, light blue, white or pink. The perennial bush is erect and can reach 50 cm in height. It easily tolerates shaping, pruning and practically does not get sick. In summer, the perennial aster does not suffer from lack of moisture or poor lighting. Does not require mulching for the winter.
Most often, various varieties of asters are used to decorate flower beds or create picturesque borders. Double flowers look especially impressive.
Aquilegia (catchment)
The perennial aquilegia or columbine, as it is popularly called, is widespread among gardeners. The plant of the Ranunculaceae family is quite hardy, survives the winter well and its green decorative leaves appear with the first warm days. They decorate the flower garden even after the aquilegia blooms. The bush grows up to 80 cm, blooms profusely in the first half of summer. The flowers at the catchment area are beautiful, bright and varied in color. The perennial grows in one place for no more than 3 years, after which it requires replanting.
Advice! The catchment should be planted in sparse shade, watered and fed abundantly.
Herbaceous perennials that do not need to be dug up for the winter
Herbaceous perennials do not bloom for long, their inflorescences are inconspicuous. Plants that winter in the open ground are famous for their decorative foliage, which appears from under the snow and remains attractive until autumn. Some species retain green foliage into winter.
Among the herbaceous perennials we can distinguish:
- host;
- bergenia;
- sedum;
- buzulnik.
These plants have unusual foliage color and retain it until winter. In the middle zone they tolerate frost well and do not require additional shelter.
Hosta should be planted in shady areas of the garden. The plant has many varieties, but species with bright foliage are especially popular. The perennial tolerates winter well and quickly recovers in the spring.
Bergenia attracts with its fleshy foliage, which remains green until winter. The plant looks good next to hostas, narrow-leaved herbs or next to flowering plants.
Sedum represents large group plants from which you can create a beautiful bed of perennials. Some prefer shade, others grow in bright sunlight. Sedum is decorative all year round, some specimens are blooming. The perennial is unpretentious, tolerates winter well, grows on rocky soil and reproduces easily.
Buzulnik is attractive with its large maple-like leaves. They are held on long petioles, are dark green in color, and may have purple veins. The perennial blooms in June, flowering continues until mid-September. The inflorescences are spike-shaped, small flowers are collected in yellow baskets.
How to care for wintering perennials
Most perennial plants are unpretentious and resist frost well, but they need to be prepared for winter:
- remove dead shoots and leaves;
- spud the roots;
- cover with spruce branches or peat.
One-year-old plants need to be especially carefully prepared for winter, as they are vulnerable. Adult specimens are more persistent and do not need such procedures before winter.
There is no need to replant perennial shrubs often, otherwise they will not have the strength to grow and develop. It is enough to divide the bush once every 3-4 years. Creeping and creeping perennials are replanted once every 10 years; they do not take root well in a new place.
In order for flowers to delight with bright colors even in winter, and their foliage to remain decorative, fertilizers must be applied annually.
Conclusion
Perennials in winter are very diverse, their choice is huge. Each flower deserves attention and is beautiful in its own way. You just need to choose a suitable place and neighborhood for it.
The autumn harvest has come to an end, but there is still a lot of work left in the garden, including the preparation of heat-loving crops for the winter. Increasingly, exotic plants can be found in gardens and vegetable gardens. The trend towards breeding such crops is due to the availability, a huge selection of seeds, and modern equipment. Despite the fact that many species from warm, exotic countries have hybrids adapted for our climate, such crops still need winter protection. Today we will discuss in detail how to properly insulate fruit trees, shrubs, and flowers for the winter.
Why cover?
The purpose of covering trees, etc. for the winter is not only to protect plants from extreme cold; by covering crops for the winter, you provide protection from recurrent warming in the autumn-winter period. It happens that after persistent frosts a thaw suddenly occurs; after warming, frosts come again, but the bark, the top layer of wood, has melted. When re-freezing occurs, cracks appear as a consequence, which in turn will lead to disease of the crop and even death.
The shelter will protect the plantings from rodents, help plants planted in the fall to take root, and protect against burns, since ultraviolet light reflected from the snow can cause such burns. The event is also aimed against weathering, the so-called winter drought.
Preparing the garden for winter
Before preparing, you need to clarify which plants need to be covered and with what. Not every insulation is created equal. It is more advisable to prepare the garden for the dormant period in advance; they begin to prepare the trees in mid-summer. This consists in the fact that they stop applying nitrogen fertilizers, since they provoke active growth of root shoots and shoots. Uncontrolled vegetation will inevitably weaken the crop. From the second half of August, fertilize (if necessary) exclusively with potassium and phosphorus additives and ash.
Autumn watering is very important. Before wintering, the soil must be sufficiently moistened; trees (especially conifers) continue to evaporate moisture from their cells almost until mid-winter; dry soil will aggravate the situation; the tree may simply dry out. In addition, it is vital (for plants) to perform pruning. As a rule, it is sanitary, but there are crops that require crown-forming pruning in the autumn.
Besides fruit trees Flowers and shrubs need preparation for the winter, and they also require sanitary treatment. Clear flower beds, mixborders, rockeries and other flower beds from dead vegetation, weeds and their roots, and other debris. This also applies to berry growers. Don't forget about proper soil preparation. It is necessary to dig up, disinfect from fungi and pests, and nourish.
When to start insulating?
In warm climatic zones, as a rule, they cover not so much from the cold as for protection from rodents (rabbits, hares, voles, etc.). In regions with little snow but warm to save snow. Insulation is required only for tropical and subtropical plants, for which even light frosts can be fatal.
In regions with a temperate climate, the event begins in the second ten days of October; during a long autumn, the date is postponed to a later time. Be that as it may, the shelter is made after daytime temperatures stop rising above -10-15oC. A procedure aimed primarily at protecting against frost, burns, weathering, and rodents.
In the northern regions, sheltering begins during periods of persistent cold weather; the start date for insulation may vary; here they are also guided by the air temperature, similar to the previous option.
In any case, you cannot cover the plantings until the onset of real frost. Insulation is removed only when the night temperature rises to at least +5oC, usually mid-March - end of April. Sharp drop temperature regime inside the trunk will damage the bark and top layer of wood. As a result, pests can settle in cracks, fungal diseases and viruses can form
It’s also not worth delaying the removal of insulation, as culture may prohibit it. As a rule, such trees die, especially young plants.
Winter shelter rules
The insulation must be constructed in such a way that air circulates in it. A dense, airtight coating will provoke the growth of fungi (mold, late blight, etc.). When protecting trees with netting or wooden structures, keep in mind that the lower branches should not touch such structures.
The procedure is carried out in several stages, accustoming the plant to a lack of light, and subsequently its complete absence. A tree should be completely closed only when it is completely immersed in a state of rest.
Insulation of roots using hilling methods
In areas with a sharply continental, contrasting climate, the most common and most appropriate way to preserve the root system is by hilling. This procedure is carried out on perennial flowering crops, young trees, and plants with a superficial root network. The event stabilizes the temperature in the root zone, thereby saving the buds in the near-ground part of the tree.
Hilling is carried out after the onset of cold weather, when the ground is covered with a frosty crust of a couple of centimeters. Starting the event earlier, there is a risk of dehydration of the surface layer of soil; the trunk in the lower part will begin to become covered with condensate (dew) from the evaporation of the earth, which will lead to excessive moistening of the bark and the penetration of water into micropores. When frozen at night, the moisture expands, thereby damaging the plant.
Spud the root collar, the trunk part of the tree. They rake the earth into a mound with a height of ten centimeters or more, it all depends on the height of the trunk. Be careful and careful not to damage the roots. If there is not enough soil, then take some of the soil from the garden. With the onset of heat, the embankment is removed layer by layer as the earth warms up.
In addition to fruit trees, garden flowers are also spudded. These types include:
- Tea, hybrid roses;
- Chrysanthemums;
- Eremurus and other heat-loving individuals;
- Mulch.
Covering garden plants with mulch material is also important. This is necessary primarily for garden flowers whose roots are located superficially.
It is worth noting that when using this method of insulating the roots, there is no point in digging up and hilling the soil around the crop, since mulch will act as this. Also take into account that not every material is suitable in this capacity, for example, oak leaves, like walnut, are unacceptable; refrain from mulching with pine needles, fresh sawdust, or shavings. Such substances will oxidize the soil, and most garden plants prefer a neutral or slightly alkaline environment.
The following components are ideal as mulching materials:
- High peat
- Compost from autumn leaves(no chlorophyll).
- Fine fraction bark.
- Foliage of fruit and park trees - poplar, birch, apple, chestnut, elm, maple and similar trees.
- Sawdust at the stage of decay, rotted, half-rotten.
- Humus will be the most ideal solution.
Before starting mulching, make a sandy, earthen edge around the trunk with a diameter of one meter and a height of fifteen centimeters. Then fill it with mulch. The coating should not come into direct contact with the tree trunk. Around it (the trunk) pour a sand pile twenty centimeters high; the sand should be dry. This is due to the fact that wet mulch, in contact with the bark, can cause rotting and mold formation. Harmful insects, their larvae and eggs, can also settle for the winter in this part of the shelter.
There is another important aspect - autumn rains and snow melting during thaws will inevitably lead to the mulch layer getting wet. Instead of protecting the plantings from frost, the mulch will turn into a frozen lump and only harm the crop. In this regard, take care of a waterproof coating. The edges of the material must be pressed down with stones and buried with earth from gusts of wind.
Aerial artificial shelters
In addition to natural materials with which lawns, flower beds, and other garden plants are insulated, more advanced but expensive shelters can be used. The agricultural market offers a lot of similar products. Among the variety of names, we can especially highlight jute, agricultural fiber (canvas), agrotex, spunbond, lutrasil. A budget option- burlap, tarpaulin.
There are several methods of air shelter:
- 1 Free swaddling of plants.
- 2 Use of ready-made covers.
- 3 Dry air shelter.
- 4 Bend down to the ground.
The first two options are used when insulating young trees, both coniferous and ornamental and fruit trees. Flowering shrubs, heat-loving berry crops are also insulated using the method of free swaddling and the use of ready-made covers. The method involves constructing a hut-type shelter and wrapping it in heat-insulating materials. The meaning of this procedure is to block the early awakening of culture. From the end of February, active solar radiation begins, photosynthesis is activated in trees under its influence, in turn, the process implies moisture consumption, but this is impossible at this time. The result of this impact will be drying of the crown. Among other things, air cover will protect juveniles from sunburn, weathering.
In the regions of the north, with a sharply continental climate, a frame (air-dry) shelter is constructed. A frame of conical, triangular, cubic or round shape is built. The frame can be made of any available material with the exception of iron. You need to understand that snowdrifts that form during winter and gusts of wind can destroy the structure, so the strength must be adequate.
- tarpaulin;
- spruce branches;
- burlap;
- old blankets;
- rags;
- bundles (sheaves) of straw and so on.
The second layer is covered with waterproof, windproof material. Both cellophane and roofing felt (roofing felt) are suitable; an air cushion is required between the layers!
- Weigel.
- Wisteria.
- Hydrangea.
- Blackberry.
- Honeysuckle.
- Clematis.
- Codonopsis.
- Schisandra.
- Raspberries.
- Some varieties of currants.
- Climbing rose.
- Rhododendron.
- Varieties of European grapes.
- Forsythia.
These plants need to be insulated using the bending method. This is not a complete list of this kind of crops; a list of only the most common plants is presented. Before bending the planting, take care of the bedding. The fact is that bent plants should not come into contact with the ground, otherwise ground moisture will provoke rotting processes, mold and other fungi will form. Afterwards they are covered with any insulation that protects from rain and wind. In winter, snow is shoveled (provided there is insufficient snow cover).
Here are the basic methods and rules for covering garden plants for the winter. Some may think that the process is quite labor-intensive and some of the conditions can be ignored. This approach is unacceptable, otherwise you may not see a good harvest or harvest at all.
23 Sep 2016
Perennial flowers delight us with lush blooms and decorative greenery every summer. All garden perennials growing in our climate must have winter-hardy characteristics; some plants can easily overwinter without shelter at all, but there are also those that need to be carefully prepared and covered before the onset of cold weather.
In autumn, plant growth stops; in some herbaceous crops, the entire above-ground part dies off. Dried leaves and flower stems should be cut off in the fall to prevent fungal diseases from developing on them. There are rhizomatous perennials whose leaves remain green after frost, for example, hellebore, bergenia, and irises. The above-ground part of these plants cannot be completely cut off in the fall, since the wintering greenery in the spring is necessary for the plants to develop in the spring, and it will decorate the flower beds while all other plants have not yet woken up from hibernation.
Consists of several stages. First, perennials are pruned as necessary, then treated with fungicidal preparations to prevent the appearance of fungal diseases, mold and rot, and finally, the plants are insulated by mulching or installing a shelter. Read more about the most popular perennial flowers and their preparation for winter.
Photos and names of perennial garden flowers in alphabetical order:
Aquilegia or catchment pleased us with flowering in the summer, and until autumn the plant retained its delicate greenery. After the first frosts, the stems and leaves of the plant disappear; in October they are cut off almost to the ground, leaving 5-7 cm above the ground. Aquilegia can overwinter without shelter, but it is necessary to cover the exposed rhizome due to erosion of the soil after watering; for this, the bushes are sprinkled with humus, peat or plain soil.
Astilbe brilliant It grows in one place for 5-6 years without any problems. Young rooted plants can overwinter without shelter; in late autumn, the dried above-ground part of the plant is cut off and the rhizome is covered with a 5 cm layer of peat or humus. With age, the astilbe rhizome protrudes more and more onto the surface of the ground, while the renewal buds can freeze out. Old astilbe plantings must be additionally covered with dry leaves and foam on top so that the leaves are not damaged by precipitation.
Perennial asters bloom until late autumn, September and October bushes are sometimes covered with the first snow. These flowers can withstand short-term cold snaps and snow, and with the thaw they will continue to bloom until real frost. When perennial asters have mostly faded, their stems are cut to the ground, leaving 5-10 cm stumps. It is better to cover perennials in dry weather. The rhizome of the plant is covered with humus, dry leaves and covered with spruce branches. Perennial asters They can overwinter without shelter, but plants weakened by late flowering will produce fewer shoots next year.
Badan decorates a flower garden or alpine hill with leaves all year round. The rhizome of this plant overwinters well without shelter under a layer of snow. To prevent snow cover from being blown away by the wind on a hill, it is necessary to build barriers in the form of dry branches stuck in like a snow-retaining fence. For those who want to propagate bergenia, its seeds are sown before winter, then in the spring they will give vigorous shoots.
Heuchera It is also famous for its beautiful leaves that fall under the snow and remain until spring. Heuchera leaves cannot be cut off in the fall, then the plant will safely overwinter and quickly grow in the spring. Preparing heuchera for winter involves hilling the base of the bush, covering it with peat and humus. The top of varietal and hybrid plants can be covered with spruce branches, but the heuchera cannot be covered with dense material, since without air access the plant can dry out.
Helenium It blooms in late summer - early autumn and after the inflorescences have withered, the stems of the plant are cut off at a height of 5-10 cm. To prepare for winter, the cut bushes are covered with peat or humus so that the regeneration buds located close to the surface of the ground do not freeze out. In winter, snow is shoveled onto the flower garden; the larger the layer, the less severe frosts are scary for wintering perennials.
Delphinium It has high frost-resistant qualities and can withstand even winters with temperatures down to -50 degrees, but only under a thick layer of snow. Tall delphinium stems are cut at a height of 15-20 cm. Since the plant’s stems are hollow, water can get inside and the base of the plant rots, so the cut is covered with garden varnish or plasticine. If there is no snow and severe frosts are expected, then the place where the delphiniums grow is covered with dry leaves and covered with spruce branches.
Dicentra or broken heart flower completely fades by autumn sunny place, but in partial shade beautiful greenery can be preserved, then it is cut at a height of 5 cm from the base. For the winter, the rhizome of the plant is covered with mulch on the surface of the ground around the bush, with a layer of 5 cm.
Irises flowers (killer whales) have a tuberous rhizome that spreads across the surface of the earth. The iris rhizome has exceptional cold-resistant qualities, but a spring thaw during the day and frost at night can destroy the plant. Before the first frost, iris leaves are cut at a height of 15-20 cm, dead and dry parts are removed so that putrefactive diseases do not appear. For the winter, the bare rhizomes of irises are covered with sand, peat or plain soil to a height of 10 cm, leaving the leaves sticking out. It is impossible to cover irises with dry leaves or dry grass, as they will rot and the plants may dry out. To retain snow in open areas, dry branches are laid on the plants. In the spring, when the snow and top layer of soil thaw, the cover is removed and the layer is raked so that the iris tubers warm up in the spring sun.
Clematis gardeners love it for its luxurious flowering, but not all perennial clematis species have high winter-hardy qualities and require careful preparation for winter and shelter. Clematis is pruned depending on the group. Large-flowered clematis, which bloom on last year's shoots, are not cut to the ground, leaving stems 1-2 meters long. To prepare for winter, long stems are twisted into a ring, laid on a bed of dry leaves or sawdust, a frame is built on top, for example, a box is placed and covered with insulating bulk material, for example the same dry leaves or sawdust, covered with roofing felt or film on top to protect from moisture . It is necessary to carefully mulch the base of the clematis bush with humus or cover it with sawdust.
Small-flowered clematis are usually cut to the ground; their numerous shoots die off after frost, but the rhizome is quite winter-hardy and in the spring produces many new shoots that grow quickly and bloom in early summer. Clematis called "princelings" bloom on last year's shoots, but they can overwinter on a support without shelter.
Daylily - “the flower of the intellectual” requires virtually no maintenance in the fall. Only faded flower stalks need to be cut off, and the leaves should be removed after they have completely turned yellow. Released daylily varieties overwinter without shelter, but exotic hybrids or not yet fully rooted plants planted in the fall are recommended to be covered for the winter by covering them with humus, peat, dry leaves or spruce branches. Covering perennials should be done when the weather is stable and cool outside, otherwise, when the weather gets warmer, the covering materials and the plants themselves may begin to rot, and mold will form, which will continue to develop in early spring.
Peony It is well preserved in winter under a thick layer of snow. After the first frosts in October - November, the peony stems are cut at a height of 5 cm, by which time the rhizome will have already accumulated enough nutrients for growth in the spring. After pruning, the peony bush is covered with humus or peat to a height of 10 cm, while there is no snow, this shelter will protect the renewal buds on the rhizome from the first frosts. In spring, most of the mulch is raked away from the bush.
Roses not as sissies as many people think. Roses can bloom even at zero temperatures; you should not rush to cover them, as the shoots may begin to become moldy under the insulation. Roses are pruned and covered for the winter no earlier than the second half of October. Roses from the hybrid tea group are pruned, leaving branches with 1-2 buds from the ground, floribunda and polyantha roses are pruned above 4-6 buds, and the shoots of climbing roses must be preserved completely. Hybrid tea roses with short pruning it is easier to cover, the base of the bushes is covered with earth, while the top layer of soil should already be frozen so that the root collar does not freeze. The top of the plant is covered with sawdust and shavings, and the top is covered with a bucket or box to protect it from moisture. Above roses with high pruning, it is necessary to build a frame, bend the shoots as much as possible to the ground, and wrap them with roofing felt. Climbing roses are removed from the support, laid on a mat, covered with insulation and covered with acrylic in several layers.
Rudbeckia "golden flower" bright and unpretentious perennial. In the fall, just before the frost, cut off the stems of the plant at the root, cover the top with compost or soil.
Perennial phlox require minimal preparation for winter, paniculate phlox's stems are cut to the ground, and a bucket of humus is poured onto the bush to protect the rhizome from frost while there is no snow.
