These amazing flowers, striking the imagination with a variety of shapes and colors, are impossible not to love. In China and Japan, chrysanthemums are recognized as a national symbol. According to ancient belief, growing chrysanthemums brings happiness and prolongs life. And it is easy to believe in it - it is impossible to look at such beauty without admiration! How to plant and grow large-flowered chrysanthemums in my garden, I will tell in this article.
Chrysanthemums can be annuals or perennials, herbaceous plants or shrubs. The stems of the chrysanthemum are strong, tall, straight, sometimes pubescent. The leaves are alternate, simple, serrated, curly, dark green.
Small flowers are connected in an inflorescence-basket. Inflorescences vary in shape - large, medium, small, lush, arachnid, star-shaped, simple and double. The middle flowers are tubular, the marginal flowers are reed. In simple varieties, reed flowers are arranged in one row, in double varieties they form many rows. The color is varied, there are varieties with two-color petals, for example, the petal is red on the inside and yellow on the outside. These flowers look very impressive.
Usually flowering of chrysanthemums begins in September and lasts a long time. These flowers can be stored for a long time in vases with water in a cut form.
Varieties
Large-flowered chrysanthemums have a large spherical inflorescence. Only one flower with a diameter of 18-25 cm is formed on the stem. They do not tolerate frost well. They must be dug up for the winter or grown as annuals. Of the entire huge number of various varieties of large-flowered chrysanthemums, consider the most popular:
- Broadway. Flowering stretches from October until frost. The diameter of the bright yellow ball is 18 cm, it remains in the bouquet for a long time. It is necessary to dig for the winter time.
- May Shusmith. It blooms in November, a white or yellow ball with a diameter of 20 cm. The stems reach a height of 1 m. The flower is kept in a vase with water for up to 20 days.
- Viking. It blooms in October, a pink ball, 20 cm in diameter. Stems 90 cm high, tolerates transportation well. Stored after cutting 15-20 days.
- Milka Lilac. It blooms in September-October, a lilac ball with a diameter of 18 cm. The length of the stem is up to 100 cm. The petals are beautifully and tightly stacked. Flowers tolerate transportation well and last a long time after cutting.
- Regalia. It blooms in September-October, a red ball with a diameter of 15 cm. The stems are strong and even, up to 1 m high. It tolerates transportation perfectly. Long lasting after cutting.
- Tom Pierce. It blooms in September, a ball with a diameter of 22 cm, the petals are red inside, orange outside, stem length is 120 cm.
- Anastasia Green. Blooms in October, needle-shaped flowers of green color, stem height 80-100 cm. It can winter in the garden, but shelter is required.
Choice of landing site
For active growth and lush flowering, large-flowered chrysanthemums need to find a sunny and warm place in the garden. Chrysanthemums cannot stand stagnant water, drafts and cold winds. The best will be a site on a hill, protected from the wind, lit by the sun for at least 5 hours a day. The soil is suitable nutritious, loamy, slightly acidic.
Preparing for landing
Planting of chrysanthemums is carried out in the spring, after the onset of persistent heat without the threat of return frosts. Usually these are the last days of May or the beginning of June.
If the soil in the selected area is depleted, it must be enriched with organic matter, but not with rotted manure, it is harmful to the chrysanthemum. Humus and biohumus, along with minerals, should be added to the soil before planting, but do not overdo it with doses, otherwise only leaves will grow instead of flowers.
Landing
- For landing, you need to choose a cloudy or rainy day. Dig trenches in the ground, and plant seedlings at a distance of 30-50 cm between them.
- Immediately after planting, the trenches are shed with Kornevin's solution for the speedy formation of a developed root system.
- After that, the upper growth point should be removed by pinching.
- Seedlings are covered with a special material - lutrasil, as soon as the plants take root and grow, it is removed.
Care
Caring for a chrysanthemum is not at all difficult. But the basic rules will have to be followed to get luxurious flowers. As soon as 8 leaves appear on the seedlings, they should be pinched. When the bush grows, it is necessary to remove all side shoots, leaving a few of the most powerful ones. Often for tall varieties it is required to build a support to support the stems.
Watering
Chrysanthemums require increased watering, otherwise the stems will become woody, and the flowers will be ugly. Water for irrigation is taken from rain, settled, slightly warm. Pour water under the very root, trying not to soak the flowers and leaves. It is imperative to loosen the soil and remove weeds.
top dressing
Chrysanthemum seedlings should be fed 6-8 weeks after planting. At least 3 top dressings are produced per season, alternating organic matter with minerals.
Burnt mullein or bird droppings are used as organic fertilizers. Of the minerals, ammonia nitrogen is used during the period of enhanced growth, and during the period of bud formation, it is fertilized with phosphorus-potassium complexes. All types of fertilizers are applied in the form of solutions after rain or watering strictly under the root.
reproduction
- Seeds. The seed method of reproduction is rarely used by gardeners. It requires hard work and takes a lot of time.
- Cuttings. Most often, chrysanthemums are propagated by cuttings. The procedure begins in the spring at a temperature of + 21- + 26 degrees. Cuttings are cut 6-7 cm long from the mother stem. Wet the lower parts of the cuttings with Kornevin and plant them in a container with a soil substrate covered with a layer of sand 2 cm thick. The edges of the cuttings should be in the sand at an angle of 45 degrees and not touch the soil. Put containers with cuttings in a lighted place. The soil is kept moist, and the ambient temperature is maintained within + 15- + 18 degrees. After 2-3 weeks, the cuttings take root, after which they can be transplanted into the garden.
- The division of the bush. This is the easiest and most affordable way to propagate chrysanthemums. After a three-year stay in one place, the chrysanthemum must be transplanted. It is carefully dug out, trying not to spoil the roots, cleaned of soil, and cut into several bushes with a sharp clean knife. Then they are transplanted in the usual way to a place chosen in the garden.
Diseases of chrysanthemums
When a plot with chrysanthemums is not weeded in a timely manner, weed thickets bring on various fungal infections:
- Verticillium wilt. It affects the roots of the plant, after which the leaves turn yellow and the roots die off. Treatment with copper chloride will help in the fight against this disease.
- Rust. The plant is covered with brown spots, the stems turn yellow and thin. You can cope with the disease with the help of colloidal sulfur or a copper-soap emulsion.
- Powdery mildew. Covers the entire plant with a harmful white coating. To combat this disease, spraying with Bordeaux liquid is used.
- Gray rot. The plant is covered with brown spots with a fluffy coating, after which it begins to rot. Bordeaux liquid will help to defeat the disease.
Sometimes chrysanthemums are affected by viral diseases - mosaic, dwarfism, aspermia. It is impossible to get rid of them, you just have to dig up the plant and burn it immediately.
Chrysanthemum pests
- Nematodes. The defeat of these pests leads to the appearance of mosaic specks on the leaves. The bush is to be destroyed. For prevention, before planting and transplanting, the plant is treated with phosphamide, and the soil is shed with formalin.
- Aphid. Aphids stick around all parts of the plant and draw juices out of them, as a result, flowers and leaves are deformed and stop growing. Apply spraying with Aktellik or Aktara.
- Meadow bug. The buds do not open, the leaves die. It is necessary to spray with a solution of baby shampoo or phosphamide.
- Slugs and snails. They are collected by hand, or they put barriers around the bushes in the form of plastic rims, or they scatter eggshells around.
Wintering
Large-flowered chrysanthemums will not be able to endure a frosty winter in the garden. They must certainly be dug up before the onset of cold weather and placed with a clod of earth in a cellar on an earthen floor. You can plant bushes in pots and transfer to storage in a cold and lit room until spring. Occasionally moisten with an earthen lump.
Another way is to dig a trench 50 cm deep in the garden and put the dug up chrysanthemum bushes there. There they are in the open until the onset of frost. Then the trenches are covered with boards, covered with leaves and earth, and covered with special material from above. In the spring, the shelter is dismantled, and the chrysanthemum bushes are transplanted into the garden in the usual way.
Results
For the successful cultivation of large-flowered chrysanthemums in the garden, special attention should be paid to the following important points of care:
- Choose the right variety of chrysanthemums.
- Find a place to plant chrysanthemums, taking into account all the recommendations.
- Land according to instructions.
- Produce timely pinching, watering, loosening, weeding and top dressing.
- Replant chrysanthemum bushes every three years to a different place.
- Dig up chrysanthemum bushes for winter storage in a cold room.
- In the spring, transplant chrysanthemum bushes to the garden.
Art. No. 2816346
A mixture of spectacular chrysanthemum seeds, recommended for group planting - a massive combination of terry and non-double mixed-color inflorescences will decorate any flower bed. The height of the stem reaches 60 centimeters. The inflorescences also differ in shape - seeds are added to the mixture, from which flowers grow both pompon-shaped and flat.
The flowering period begins in late summer and lasts from August until late frost. Accordingly, this plant is resistant to cold, but at the same time photophilous. Tolerates drought. It is desirable to allocate soils with moderate fertility for chrysanthemums.
To get seedlings, sow the seeds in the ground, lightly sprinkled with earth - sowing is carried out in April. If you provide a temperature above 20 degrees, seedlings will appear after 2-3 weeks. It is also possible to sow directly into open ground in early May - it is important to cover the flower bed with a film after that until the emergence of seedlings. Transfer of seedlings to the site is carried out in mid-May. It is important to observe the intervals between plants - they should be about 40 centimeters. As it grows, do not forget to pinch the stems to increase bushiness. It is also important to provide abundant watering, but water should be poured immediately under the root so that it does not fall on the leaves. Do not forget to feed the chrysanthemums at the time the buds appear - phosphorus-potassium fertilizer is ideal for this.
From mid-summer until the very frosts, many household plots, summer cottages and front gardens are decorated with bright garden chrysanthemum bushes. The plant blooms even when many flowers have already withered after the first frost. Even the most experienced gardeners are amazed at the variety of flower colors, types and shapes. You can learn about the varieties and features of growing the "Queen of Autumn" by reading our article. And photos of chrysanthemums will help you choose the types of flower suitable for the garden.
Varieties and varieties of garden chrysanthemums with a photo
Garden chrysanthemum is a perennial plant, the height of which depends on the species and can be from 15 to 150 cm. Currently, a large number of varieties of chrysanthemums are known, which, according to some features and characteristics, are combined into groups.
The size of the inflorescences
Perennial chrysanthemums are divided into three groups according to the diameter of flowers:
- small-flowered;
- mid-flowered;
- large-flowered.
Small-flowered or Korean plants can be simple and double. A large number of inflorescences grows on one bush with a flower diameter of 2-10 cm. The bushes themselves can reach a height of 25 to 120 cm. The leaves of the plant have the shape of oak leaves. Flowers are frost-resistant, undemanding to the composition of the soil and easy to care for. Their flowering begins in mid-September and continues until frost.
Medium-flowered or decorative chrysanthemums can be grown not only for garden decoration, but also for cutting. They also grow well in pots at home. They can decorate balconies, loggias and terraces. Ornamental bushes grow up to 30-70 cm, and have a flower diameter of 10-18 cm.
Large-flowered chrysanthemums are showy tall plants. The length of their stem can reach from 80 to 120 cm. They bloom in large flowers with a diameter of 10-25 cm. This type of chrysanthemum does not tolerate frost. Only some of its varieties can winter in open ground. Such flowers are intended mainly for cutting into bouquets.
According to the shape and height of the bush, garden chrysanthemums are divided into three types, each of which has many varieties.
Tall. The stems of this type of garden chrysanthemum can be very tall and require support in the form of frames, metal nets or wooden pegs. Supports are installed during planting bushes. Plants planted in a group can be used as hedges. Most popular varieties tall garden chrysanthemums are:
- "Amber Lady" - the plant is distinguished by inflorescences of a golden hue.
- "Umka" - chrysanthemums with white flowers, the shape of which resembles a pompom.
- "Daughter of Rosetta" strewn with flat inflorescences with flowers of pink and white.
Medium height. Bushes growing up to 30-50 cm look very impressive both in a flower bed and along paths, fences, arbors. With their help, you can realize various design fantasies. The best varieties of medium-sized garden chrysanthemums are considered:
- "Dawn" - the plant has a yellow-brown color, which is just right for the autumn mood.
- "Dune" is a truly magical variety, the flowers of which can change their color during flowering. They bloom yellow-brown, and after a few days they become yellow-gold.
- "Lily" will help to add brightness to any composition with its dark crimson colors.
Border. Plants of small size grow up to only 30 cm. This type of chrysanthemum is considered one of the most beautiful garden flowers. Bushes of curb chrysanthemums have the shape of a ball strewn with small flowers. The most popular varieties in this group are:
- "Barbara" - a plant with delicate lilac-purple flowers.
- "Evening Lights" - the variety is distinguished by scarlet inflorescences that resemble a festive salute.
- "Talisman" is strewn with bright beet-raspberry flowers.
flower shape
Garden chrysanthemums have five different types of flower shapes:
Garden chrysanthemums - planting and care
Landing Features
Chrysanthemums love sunny areas. The plant needs a lot of light to form flower buds. Even in partial shade, chrysanthemums will not bloom.
The soil should be rich in organic matter. Therefore, during digging, one bucket of manure, compost or peat must be added per square meter of soil. You do not need to add more organic matter, otherwise only leaves will grow rapidly on the bush, and the plant will bloom with very small flowers.
Care rules
When caring for a garden chrysanthemum, special attention should be paid to watering it, since the plant depends on soil moisture level. You need to water the bushes in a timely manner, otherwise the flower will throw off all the buds.
The volume of water for watering one bush depends on its characteristics. Plants with small hard leaves can be watered less often than bushes with soft large leaves that evaporate a lot of moisture.
Chrysanthemums respond well to top dressing. For this, complex mineral fertilizers containing magnesium and potassium, and organic fertilizers in the form of humates are used. During the active growth of green mass, the plant is fed with nitrogen.
Caring for garden chrysanthemums includes the formation of a bush. It needs to be done regularly pinch and cut. For the first time, the top of the plant is removed when the central shoot grows to 10 cm. After a while, when the side shoots grow to 10 cm, the crown is also pinched off. After that, the bush grows until flowering.
During the period when the chrysanthemum blooms, faded and withered buds should be regularly removed from its bush. In this way, the flowering period can be extended.
If you want to get large beautiful flowers, you can make a total pruning of the side shoots. As a result, only one stem and one peduncle will remain on the bush. All the forces of the plant will go to the formation and growth of the flower.
Caring for a garden chrysanthemum in winter
In order for a plant planted in the garden to bloom just as beautifully and profusely the next year, you need to make sure that it winters well.
In frosty winters even cold-resistant varieties require shelter. Therefore, after flowering, the stems of the bushes are cut to the ground. The plant is spudded and covered with fallen leaves.
Chrysanthemums with large flowers are afraid of sub-zero temperatures. Therefore, they need to be dug together with an earthen clod and planted in a suitable container. Plants are stored until planting in the spring in a room with a temperature of 0-5 degrees. Caring for them consists in rare watering of an earthen coma, which should not dry out.
Diseases and pests of perennial chrysanthemums
With proper care, the plant is rarely affected by pests and practically does not get sick. However, the bushes need to be inspected regularly in order to identify the problem as early as possible and start treating the plant. The threat to garden chrysanthemums is:
- Spider mite is a pest that sucks juice from a plant. It can be detected by spider web formations on the reverse side of the leaf. If the leaves of the chrysanthemum turn gray-brown, begin to darken and fall off, then most likely a tick has settled on it. The plant must be treated with special chemicals.
- Leaf nematodes - the disease is manifested by deformation of the leaves, and their darkening between the veins. In this case, you need to change the soil and cut off the damaged areas.
- Verticillosis is an infectious disease that penetrates through the roots. Therefore, the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither from the bottom of the bush. In the initial stages, spraying with biological products will help.
- Powdery mildew first affects the leaves and buds, on which a white coating appears. The affected parts of the plant are removed, and the bush itself is treated with Bordeaux liquid.
Reproduction of bush chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum can be reproduce in three ways:
- dividing the bush;
- seeds;
- cuttings.
The division of the bush
Shrubs can be divided in the spring, but only after the threat of frost has passed. In order for chrysanthemums to bloom better, their bushes are recommended to be divided every three years. To do this, the plant is carefully dug up and divided into several small bushes. The roots of the plant will need to be cut. Delenki are planted in the ground and watered.
seed propagation
In open ground sowing is done in May. For each future plant, a separate hole is dug, the distance between which should be 25 cm. 3-4 seeds are buried in one hole. For the first time, chrysanthemums should bloom at the end of summer.
cuttings
Propagation by cuttings is the easiest way, since chrysanthemums take root quickly and well.
- A stalk with 3-4 leaves is cut off under the leaf pattern. Its length should be 6-8 cm.
- The container is filled first with peat, and then with sand, into which the cutting sits.
- The soil is sprayed, and the box is covered with glass.
The temperature for rooting should be between 13-15 degrees. When the roots appear, the cuttings will need to transplant into separate pots. Young bushes are planted in open ground only when frosts have passed.
By following the rules for planting and caring for a garden chrysanthemum, you can achieve beautiful and spectacular flowering during half of the summer and almost the entire autumn. Any part of the garden where the "Queen of Autumn" will grow will become a luxurious decoration of the garden.
Bush chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemums are considered the favorites of the withering autumn garden, this is the leading flower culture of the late autumn and early winter periods. A large number of bred varieties of chrysanthemums allows you to choose plants for every taste.
Many flower growers of the world classify chrysanthemums as "hobby" plants and collect collections of these wonderful plants. The culture of chrysanthemums in Japan is especially reverent. The art of making dolls from live chrysanthemums even originated in Japanese culture.
Unpretentious garden chrysanthemums with small flowers usually finish flowering in October - with the onset of significant frosts. And large-flowered chrysanthemums under the cover of a greenhouse are not afraid of bad weather - they continue to delight with their beauty and freshness for a long time.
Large-flowered chrysanthemums are good for cutting, they are widely used for making autumn compositions. Huge flowers of various colors, beautiful foliage on strong tall stems, long-term preservation of freshness in a vase, a combination of high decorativeness of large-flowered chrysanthemums with late flowering are the components of the constant and widespread popularity of these majestic and at the same time elegant plants.
Watering and feeding large-flowered chrysanthemums
During the period of active summer growth of chrysanthemums, in order to obtain full-fledged flowers in autumn, the main task of caring for plants is watering andtimely supply of essential nutrients.
At the beginning of the growth of young chrysanthemums, they should be watered frequently until the root system is not strong enough. When watering chrysanthemums, I try not to wet the leaves.
The most important nutrient for the growth and development of beautiful chrysanthemums is nitrogen, which affects the height of plants, the color and size of their leaves and inflorescences. With an increase in the doses of nitrogen application to the soil, the height of chrysanthemums, the size of their leaves and the length of the petals, the diameter and doubleness of the inflorescences increase. Also, the color of the leaves and inflorescences of chrysanthemums fed with nitrogen becomes more intense, and the plants as a whole become more decorative. However, the positive effect of nitrogen on the development of chrysanthemums is observed only with its optimal ratio with other nutrients (mainly phosphorus).
With a lack of nitrogen, chrysanthemum bushes are formed weak, with pale green leaves and small irregularly shaped inflorescences; they bloom very late. With a lack of nitrogen in the soil, this nutrient is used by plants for the second time (that is, the upper growing part of the shoots “takes away” nitrogen from the lower part of the plant). Then the lightened lower leaves on the shoots of chrysanthemums indicate a lack of nitrogen in the substrate.
Excess nitrogen also affects plants negatively: chrysanthemums grow weak, their leaves become dark green, juicy and brittle; overfertilized plants bloom too late.
Nitrogen is characterized by a narrow range of optimal doses, so I will definitely apply it again - in the form of several top dressings (especially during the main vegetative growth of chrysanthemums).
It is best to feed chrysanthemums with natural organic fertilizers: chicken manure, fermented grass, mullein infusion, biohumus infusion, etc.
The positive effect of nitrogen on chrysanthemums is manifested only with a sufficient amount of phosphorus, which is especially important during the formation of inflorescences. Phosphorus accelerates the flowering of chrysanthemums and increases the resistance of plants to diseases. With a lack of phosphorus, there is a strong delay in the growth and development of chrysanthemum bushes: plants bloom late, have small inflorescences; the leaves become small, acquire a light green color, lose their elasticity. In the case of a severe lack of phosphorus, the lower leaves of the shoots dry out.
Caring for large-flowered chrysanthemums
During regular plant inspections dead leaves on chrysanthemum bushes must be removed in a timely manner, as they are primarily affected by pests and diseases. It mainly affects chrysanthemum aphids (most often the so-called "bloody" aphid). Sometimes sparrows annoy Indian chrysanthemums in the garden.
Large-flowered chrysanthemums, propagated by cuttings in the second half of April and May, I grow without pinching. And if the cuttings of chrysanthemums were planted early (in winter and early spring, in February-March), then I pinch such plants to avoid premature flowering. Each pinch delays the flowering of chrysanthemums for 2-3 weeks.
For varieties of chrysanthemums "Gazelle" and "V. Tereshkova ”I pinch no more than two times. The first time I pinch the young plant after rooting, at a height of about 15 cm. The second time I pinch the shoot of the plant when it reaches a height of 25 cm. Then I use the cut tops of the chrysanthemum shoots for propagation.
In developing large-flowered chrysanthemums, I usually leave one shoot and one central bud in order to obtain highly decorative, large inflorescences. Sometimes I leave 2-3 shoots on a powerful bush (in this case, smaller inflorescences form on them).
The main way to obtain large inflorescences of chrysanthemums is the timely removal of emerging side shoots and buds - pinching and pinching. With their belated removal, the main peduncle in the upper part of the shoot grows thin, and the inflorescence becomes smaller, which reduces the decorativeness of the plant.
I remove the side buds from large-flowered chrysanthemums carefully and as early as possible (as soon as you can grab the side buds with your fingers so as not to damage the remaining main bud).
Since plants of the same variety often develop unevenly, their buds do not form simultaneously, with a difference of 10-15 days. Therefore, during the budding period, for the timely removal of lateral buds, it is necessary to check the condition of the chrysanthemums several times, every 3-4 days.
Planting and transplanting large-flowered chrysanthemums
Large-flowered chrysanthemum varieties "Gazelle" and "V. Tereshkova" I grow in the open field until they bloom. Therefore, I plant plants in the garden in such a way that in the future flowering chrysanthemums can be covered from bad weather with a film or frames. This allows you to get high-quality cut chrysanthemums directly from open ground, without replanting plants.
Transplantation of chrysanthemum bushes of the Gazelle variety noticeably affects the quality of the inflorescences. In addition, flowers from transplanted bushes are cut 2-3 times less than inflorescences from non-transplanted bushes.
Sometimes I plant chrysanthemums in large pots that I completely dig into the soil of the garden. In August, I remove pots with plants from the ground and transfer them to a room or greenhouse. At the same time, the root system of potted chrysanthemums is not disturbed, they bloom and stand in the cut much longer than "ground" plants.
Protection of large-flowered chrysanthemums in autumn
When I cover large-flowered chrysanthemums blooming in the garden in the fall from bad weather with a film on top, I also stretch the fabric over the plants (for this purpose, you can use covering material of any brand). Otherwise, during the wind, when the film will “pop” under its gusts, then drops of condensate flying from the film will fall on the chrysanthemums. Large snow-white flowers of chrysanthemums of the Gazelle variety quickly lose their decorative effect and rot from falling on them, but Valentina Tereshkova chrysanthemums are not so afraid of dripping moisture.
At temperatures below +3 degrees, chrysanthemums of the Gazelle variety give poor flower baskets, the flowers begin to turn black. Therefore, I heat up the film greenhouse with chrysanthemums in frosts.
I water the chrysanthemums in the greenhouse abundantly, but at the same time I try not to get water on the leaves.
Wintering of large-flowered chrysanthemums
Indian large-flowered chrysanthemums do not overwinter in the open field of regions with a cold climate, because they cannot withstand a long frosty winter. Therefore, you need to take care of their wintering: in autumn, the queen cells of large-flowered chrysanthemums have to be dug up and brought into storage for preservation in the winter.
If in the southern part of Belarus it is possible to leave large-flowered chrysanthemums for wintering in the open ground (but only with very thorough dry shelter), then in the central and northern parts of the republic it is very risky to do this. In autumn, I dig up chrysanthemum mother liquors and store them in winter at a positive temperature.
In order to preserve the existing highly decorative large-flowered chrysanthemums for further cultivation, I select the best plants during their flowering for mother liquors.
High-quality queen cells have large flowers of the correct form, beautiful leaves and a healthy appearance of the bushes in general; full-fledged plants form many strong layering.
The most valuable thing in chrysanthemum mother liquors is layering that grew during the flowering of plants.. In the future, these layers will be used for propagation of chrysanthemums by cuttings.
Winter storage of large-flowered chrysanthemums is the most crucial moment in their cultivation, requiring very precise implementation of these instructions.
After cutting the flowers, I cut off the mother liquors of chrysanthemums, leaving the lower part of the shoots up to 10 cm long. I dig up the plants and put the rhizomes very tightly in deep boxes. From above I pour a slightly damp mixture of peat and sand into the box in equal proportions (so that only the tops of the layers remain at the top).
I leave the boxes with chrysanthemum mother cells in the greenhouse or on the veranda until the cold weather, I don’t water them. I store the plants only after the soil in the box with the mother liquors dries significantly (the drier the better).
As a storage of large-flowered chrysanthemums, any room without constant lighting, with a temperature of -1 to +5 degrees, is suitable. At this temperature, the rhizomes of chrysanthemums are preserved for sure, the plants do not start growing. Under such conditions, the old roots of chrysanthemums do not take root during wintering, valuable cuttings are well preserved.
In winter, I do not water the mother liquors of stored chrysanthemums in any case.
If, during the winter storage of chrysanthemum queen cells, the tops of their layers were eaten by rodents that managed to get into the storage (mice, rats), then there is no need to worry about damaged layers. They will not die from this, just then in the future the need to pinch the tops of the layers of chrysanthemums disappears.
Nedyalkov Stefan Fedorovich (Novopolotsk, Republic of Belarus) [email protected]
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