Shotgun cleaning rod 6 letters. Modern methods for cleaning rifle barrels

08.04.202027.05.2017

Let's assume that before the very first shot the barrel bore is absolutely clean - there is no dust, no lubricating oil residue, no old dirt. In this case, the first layer of new contamination will be the trace from the casing of the first bullet, which will pass through the bore when firing.

Modern rifle bullet casings are made from a wide variety of materials. Next, we will consider in detail the types of contaminants left by each specific jacket material, but for now we will focus on the fact that all bullet jacket materials, without exception, leave a mark in the barrel. This mark is a heterogeneous film that adheres tightly to the surface of the bore. The next bullet will leave a film on top of the film from the first bullet; and the more times you fire your weapon, the more extensive and thicker this cumulative film of bullet casing becomes.

The matter is aggravated by the fact that the material of bullet casings is not the only factor determining the contamination of the barrel bore, and not even the main one. The greatest influence - and the greatest harm - is caused by the gaseous combustion products of the powder charge and primer composition. Powder gases develop enormous pressure when fired; Thanks to (although it is ungodly to thank them for this) this pressure, gaseous combustion products are able to penetrate into the crystalline structure of the barrel steel and accumulate there. And since powder gases and, especially, combustion products of the primer composition have an aggressive chemical effect on the metal of the barrel bore, this effect is the most deplorable for the barrel.

Solid combustion residues of the powder charge and primer composition settle on the surface of the barrel bore. Since there is already a film left by the bullet casing, the shooting results in the formation of something that looks like a layer cake - namely, a dense multi-layer film of aggressive dirt.

Should we be afraid of this dirt?

There is a fairly large community of shooters (mainly made up of hunters who shoot from long-barreled rifles not too often - only during the hunting season - and quite a few), which do not bother with cleaning at all. In this environment, it is generally accepted that pollution does not harm the trunks at all. And it is considered especially chic not to clean a barrel that has military origin. I myself have so often heard statements like “I don’t clean my SKS (SVT/Tiger/Vepr/Saiga/three-line, etc.) at all - why?” that it now causes an allergic reaction in me.

In fact - and this should be learned by heart - gunshot contamination is harmful to all rifle barrels without exception, regardless of the coating or lack of coating of the bore, the type of barrel steel, the celebrity of the manufacturer and the cost of the weapon. But there is no need to be afraid of this dirt. Why? Because now we will learn to fight it.

To effectively combat rifle barrel contamination, you will need some tools.

First of all, this is a ramrod. A cleaning rod is the cornerstone of proper cleaning of a rifle barrel, since the design of the cleaning rod determines not only whether your rifle will be properly cleaned. A bad cleaning rod will not damage the bore for long; if you want to avoid this, then you need a one-piece cleaning rod - in the form of a non-separable metal rod in a plastic shell - and as rigid as possible. The best rifle cleaning rods fully comply with the concept of an “ideally rigid rod” used in theoretical mechanics - there is no bending, and the force is transmitted only in the axial direction.

Of course, you can use composite cleaning rods or solid ones, but made of polymer materials. However, composite cleaning rods, even those coated with plastic, can scratch the edges of the rifling in areas where individual links meet; a similar phenomenon can occur when using solid, but flexible, polymer cleaning rods. Since we agreed to love our guns, it should be understood that a rifle cleaning rod should not be flexible. This is not a spinning rod, after all.

The cleaning rod must also be long enough - we should not forget that the rifle, in addition to the regulated length of the barrel with the chamber, usually also has a receiver. Plus, sometimes it's useful to be able to swing. I myself use a cleaning rod with a working length of 44 inches (with a rifle barrel length with a chamber of 26 inches) and do not experience any inconvenience when cleaning - on the contrary, it is just a pleasure.

An equally important tool is the bushing (in English-speaking countries it is called bore guide). I would even say that the bushing and cleaning rod share first place in importance.

The sleeve has a dual function. Firstly, it really serves to guide the movement of the ramrod - or rather, to prevent the ramrod rod from touching (and thus possible damage) the rifling in the area of the bullet entry of the barrel. This is very important, since the accuracy of the weapon directly depends on the condition of the rifling in the area of the bullet entrance. Second, a bushing that fits tightly into the rifle's chamber prevents cleaning chemicals and dissolved dirt from getting anywhere other than the rifle's bore. Agree, there is no point in spreading the dirt removed from the bore all over the weapon.

The remaining tools are a variety of attachments. All attachments can be divided into two main types: brushes and wipers (also known as “vischers”).

The purpose and principle of operation of brushes is simple and clear - they are needed for mechanical impact on a dense film of contamination. There are metal brushes (usually brass or bronze) and polymer.

Of course, you won’t be able to remove dirt with just a brush, just as you won’t be able to eat a bowl of soup with a fork - that’s what wipes are for.

And the rack (gun vise or gun cradle) closes the group of necessary instrumentation. It is designed to secure your rifle (or a separate barrel with receiver) during cleaning. There are specialized racks; There are racks integrated into folding tool boxes. In addition, you can make the stand yourself - it’s not that difficult. In any case, a stand is necessary - at least even for the convenience of the shooter himself.

In addition to tools, it makes sense to describe consumables. The most common of them (and at the same time, perhaps the simplest and most convenient) are fabric patches (from the English Patch - shred, shred). You can make them yourself by cutting a piece of fabric with scissors into squares of the desired size, or you can buy ready-made ones; but homemade patches are better for cleaning because you can, by adjusting the size of the patch you cut, adjust the tightness of its passage through the barrel, while factory-made patches in the package are usually the same size. It is best to make patches from white fabric - dirt is more noticeable on it - and thick and soft enough so that the patch completely fills the cross-section of the bore. Some time ago I myself solved the problem with patches on a grand scale, having bought about thirty meters of white flannel.

Recently, consumables produced by VFG have become very famous - in the form of felt cylinders screwed onto a special wipe (they are popularly called “VFG patches”, although this is incorrect - these cylinders do not at all resemble shreds). These cylinders are indeed very convenient - and in some procedures they are generally irreplaceable - however, they are not convenient for everything, and cannot completely replace fabric patches. Therefore, it would be most reasonable to use both patches and cylinders - the procedure will be described below.

Now is the time to move on to a description of the chemicals used for cleaning.

All necessary weapons chemicals can be divided into three categories based on their operating principle. Firstly, these are means for dissolving and neutralizing powder deposits. Secondly, these are products for removing traces of bullet casing material - I deliberately do not say “copper”, since such products, as a rule, can also dissolve traces of lead and zinc. There are also universal products that simultaneously dissolve both carbon deposits and traces of metals, but their effect, as a rule, is somewhat weaker.

The third category includes cleaning pastes - an approximate analogue of cosmetic scrubs. As a rule, such pastes have an exclusively mechanical principle of action, but there are also pastes with a complex anti-copper-mechanical effect. Unlike solvents, pastes perfectly clean even those barrels from which bullets with coatings were fired - such as molybdenum disulfide (moly-coated) or Teflon-based coatings, which are not removed by conventional chemistry.

And finally, the fourth category consists of penetration and lubricating oils. The task of oils is not only and not so much lubrication itself. It is much more important to neutralize the remnants of cleaning chemicals, which in themselves - especially products from the second category - are very aggressive. Such oils must have high fluidity and penetration in order to neutralize aggressive substances wherever possible; that is why they are, in fact, called penetration (from the English Penetrate - to penetrate inside, to pierce). Moreover, these oils are also excellent for lubrication.

It should be noted that in the most extreme cases - for example, when you are far from civilization, and suitable means I simply don’t have it at hand - penetration oil can also be used to neutralize powder deposits. Of course, it won’t work nearly as effectively as a specialized carbon remover, but it’s still better than not cleaning at all.

Very often questions arise: is it possible to clean weapons with kerosene or its derivatives, like WD-40?

I will answer this evasively, because I know: many people clean only with WD-40, resolutely sweeping aside all advice and ridiculing supporters of specialized gun cleaning products. Yes, you can clean your gun with WD-40. You can also clean your weapon with cucumber brine or stale Zhigulevsky beer - and just try to say that I’m wrong. Can. But it's not necessary. Believe me.

Now it's time to reward you for your patience and indulgence in my tediousness. Let's move on to cleaning.

First of all, stock up on everything you need. You already know that you need a stand, cleaning rod and bushing. Additionally, you will need one bronze brush, one plastic brush, one wiper for fabric patches, one wiper adapter for VFG felt cylinders, one piece of flannel, one handful of VFG cylinders, one pack of cotton swabs for cleaning ears, one roll of paper towels or 65 meters toilet paper, and one nail file. Don't forget also two arms and one head.

We will use only the chemicals that are on sale in Kyiv weapons stores. We will need one can of Forrest foam, one can of Hoppe's #9 Nitro Powder Solvent, one can of Robla Solo Mil, one can of cleaner J-B pastes Bore Cleaner and one bottle of Klever Ballistol spray. Instead of Robla and Hoppe #9, you can successfully use Shooter’s Choice MC #7 Firearms Bore Cleaning Solvent - this product dissolves both carbon deposits and traces of metal equally well.

So. Let’s say you’ve just shot at the shooting range (or shot a prize-winning moose while hunting, drank “on the blood” and took photos) and intend to go home (or go to the base to “ferment”). Of course, the first thing you think about is your weapon (assuming this is true).

If you shot only a few times, and you plan to start the main cleaning of the weapon the next day - as is usually the case on group hunts - there is no point in pouring chemicals into the barrel; it will do more harm than good. It is enough to remove the bolt and drive a loose patch through the barrel, generously moistened with Ballistol. This oil has a slight alkaline effect, so it is able to somehow neutralize powder deposits - which, in fact, is what we need.

In the case when the shooting is large - fifteen shots or more - and the journey home will take no more than an hour or two, it makes sense not to limit yourself to Ballistol. If you were shooting metal jacketed bullets, blow Forrest foam into the still hot barrel and leave it like that. Due to the increased temperature, the effect of the foam will be enhanced, while there will be no danger to the trunk - Forrest foam is a very delicate product.

At home, mount the weapon in the rack and insert the bushing into the receiver.

If the bore was lubricated with Ballistol, then it must be thoroughly wiped off - otherwise Ballistol will weaken the effect of the solvents; the same thing, but for a different reason, should be done with foam. It is best to do the first wiping with a VFG cylinder - there is still a lot of dirt in the barrel (after foam there is, naturally, much less dirt than after Ballistol, but Forrest causes the dirt to swell in some way), and a regular patch will not help much. Pass a couple more cylinders through the barrel.

Now it's the turn of the pipe cleaners. Take a plastic brush and use a nail file to apply some JB paste to it (the paste should only cover the middle part of the brush). Insert a cleaning rod with a brush into the barrel and move it back and forth several times (at the exit from the barrel, the brush should completely leave the muzzle). Now remove the brush - you won't need it anymore - and wipe the cleaning rod clean of dirt. Remove the spent paste mixed with dirt from the bore completely - first in cylinders, then in patches.

Now your trunk is cleaned of the main dirt; however, the most disgusting and complex dirt remained in it. I'm talking about soot that has eaten into the pores of the metal of the barrel due to the monstrous pressure developed during the shot. The complexity of this contamination is that it is hidden under a thin film of metal left by bullet casings - the very first metal film, which cannot be completely removed using a non-abrasive paste.

Solvents will help us in the fight against this film (in fact, Forrest foam itself is such a solvent, but in this case we need something more serious). Run several patches through the barrel, generously moistened with Robla or Shooters Choice, and leave the barrel alone for about half an hour (but no more, since these products containing ammonia compounds are quite aggressive).

After half an hour, wipe the barrel dry with patches. Apply a little paste to the side of the VFG cylinder using a nail file - just a little bit. Pass this cylinder back and forth along the barrel a dozen times - making sure, however, that the cylinder does not extend beyond the muzzle. This procedure will help clean off any remaining metal film that has not been completely dissolved by the chemical.

Now you need to neutralize the remaining chemicals with Ballistol. After letting the Ballistol run for half an hour or so, you need to wipe the barrel clean and dry using patches (if three patches in a row come out as clean as what came in, then you've done your job).

Now that there are no solvents left in the bore, you can use a bronze brush (otherwise it would be successfully dissolved by chemicals). A bronze brush is not needed to destroy dense dirt - we have successfully overcome it with the combined action of a plastic brush, felt, paste and chemicals. Due to its rigidity, a bronze brush is needed to destroy dirt in hard-to-reach areas of the barrel, where it is almost impossible to “get it” with more delicate means: we are talking about the angles of the rifling. A few - a dozen or a little more - movements back and forth are enough; then you need to pass several patches moistened with solvent. Then you need to wipe the barrel clean with dry cloth patches until they no longer come out dirty. Voila - your trunk is thoroughly cleaned.

It is convenient to clean the remaining components of your weapon using cotton swabs moistened with Ballistol, and the same patches used as napkins. Compared to cleaning the bore, cleaning the remaining components of the weapon does not present any difficulty, so I will not dwell on it in detail.

There is some subtlety in cleaning the barrel if you shot coated bullets - like molybdenum disulfide or some types of Teflon.

The difficulty here is that traces of these coatings are not dissolved by conventional means. You will have to use exclusively mechanical means– brushes and paste; Therefore, when buying such cartridges, be patient.

Long life to you and your weapon.

Andrey Rudoy

Gun barrel cleaning device made in the form of a visher, which is a tip with the diameter of the working part, consistent with the caliber of the barrel, with an end section (2) for placement on the ramrod, while the tip is a piston (3), made of an elastically deformable material, rigidly connected to a metal rod (1) passing along the axial line, the piston is made in the form of a body of revolution with annular grooves (4) along the generatrix. The technical result is an expansion of the range of devices for cleaning weapon barrels, providing effective cleaning with minimal labor costs. 1 n.p. f-ly, 1 salary files, 1 drawing

The claimed utility model relates to accessories for cleaning gun bores and can be used to clean gun barrels of smooth-bore and rifled guns from soot, soot, and unburnt particles of gunpowder.

A known machine for cleaning the bore small arms brushes mounted on a rotating eccentric shaft mounted on a frame that moves progressively in the direction of the barrel bore, ensuring movement of cleaning rods over the full length of the barrel (USSR Copyright Certificate 119101, 1958).

Bronze and nylon brushes, which are mounted on cleaning rods, are widely used for manual cleaning of gun barrels from carbon deposits to this day.

A device for cleaning a weapon barrel is also known, containing a rod with a replaceable nozzle, the rod is connected to the piston of a pneumatic cylinder, the cavities of which communicate with a source of compressed air through control equipment and a controlled spool, while the cover of the pneumatic cylinder with a hole for the rod is connected to a centering clamping device for connection with the muzzle of the barrel by means of fastening with side windows made on it for access to the replaceable nozzle when replacing it (Patent RU 2107877, 1998).

Known devices provide automated cleaning of weapon barrels, i.e. can be used on an industrial scale and are not used for cleaning personal weapons. To manually clean the barrel of a personal weapon from carbon deposits, various bronze and nylon brushes, which are installed on cleaning rods, as well as powder puffs, etc., are still widely used. tips.

A device is known for cleaning the inner surface of a gun barrel, which includes a fabric sleeve having a first end, a second end and a wall; and a brush placed inside said sleeve, wherein the bristles of said brush penetrate through said wall of said sleeve. The device may be provided with a flexible cord attached to said fabric sleeve to pull the cleaning device along the bore. (Utility model patent RU 99136, 2010).

The well-known kit with a flexible snake, oil and solvent is applicable for cleaning personal weapons, however, it is usually used as an auxiliary cleaning method in addition to cleaning the barrel of a weapon using a cleaning rod; it is labor-intensive and not convenient enough.

The closest to the proposed device is Visher Yu.N. Lysakovsky, which is a threaded brass tip with the diameter of the working part, matched with the caliber of the barrels for winding rags (patch), equipped with an end section equipped with a thread for screwing onto a cleaning rod and a hole for a pin for unscrewing the visher (see “ Desk book hunter-athlete", ed. prof. P.A. Manteuffel, Ed. “Physical Education and Sports”, Moscow, Volume 1 section “Care and Saving hunting weapons", 1955, and "Encyclopedia of Hunting Weapons". DELTA-MM Corp, 2002). Vishers are used as ramrod tips to remove carbon deposits and residual oil from the walls of the bore.

Known tips require a labor-intensive process of cleaning the bore by repeatedly moving the cleaning rod from the breech to the muzzle of the barrel. In this case, with each pass of the ramrod, the patches attached to the visher must be replaced with new ones, and the used ones must be thrown away. Moreover, the brass tip is not deformed, but smoothbore weapon has a slight narrowing in the muzzle. This creates additional difficulties in using the well-known visher. In addition, patches, brushes and brushes are prone to clogging with solid particles.

The task to which the claimed utility model is aimed is to expand the arsenal of devices for cleaning the bore of a weapon.

The technical result is to perform the function of cleaning the bore of a weapon with increased efficiency.

The problem is solved by the fact that the inventive device for cleaning the barrel of a weapon is made in the form of a visher, which is a tip with the diameter of the working part, matched to the caliber of the barrel, with an end section for placement on a ramrod, while the tip is a piston made of elastically deformable material, rigidly connected to a metal rod running along the axial line, the piston is made in the form of a body of revolution with annular grooves along the generatrix.

The inventive device differs from the known one in that the body of the visher is made of an elastically deformable material, which can be used as elastic polymers, for example, vulcanized isoprene rubber (rubber), silicone, nylon, etc. materials.

The material used to manufacture the metal rod is bronze or brass or stainless steel or similar metals and alloys.

The end section of the metal rod, intended for mounting on the cleaning rod, can be made with threads, flange connections and other similar known detachable connections.

The head section of the visher, opposite the end section intended for attachment to the ramrod, is made soft (elastically deformable), allowing passage of the choke area.

Making the working part from an elastically deformable material, made in the form of a piston with annular grooves, allows for effective final cleaning of the weapon barrel from the breech to the muzzle in one pass, ensuring a tight fit to the walls of the barrel both in the breech and in the muzzle. Existing carbon deposits and other residues to be removed are pushed out of the barrel bore during translational movement due to the tight fit of the elastic surface of the head and annular sections of the piston to the walls of the barrel. A tight fit is ensured by matching the diameter of the piston with the caliber of the barrel and the elastically deformable material of the piston. The head part of the piston and several annular sections of the working surface of the piston, formed by annular grooves, provide in one pass the same effect that is provided with multiple passes of known vishers. At the same time, not only large carbon particles are removed, but also small particles, including rust, as well as cleaning agent residues, copper plating and lead particles. When using known devices (brushes, ruffs, visher with rags, etc. devices), carbon deposits are removed from the barrel channel in stages, remaining in the channel, including due to the shedding of working surfaces from the fibers. This requires repeating cleaning operations many times, replacing brushes, brushes and patches with new ones. Unlike the known ones, the inventive device makes it possible to effectively clean the barrel channel of carbon deposits with minimal labor costs, because The working surfaces are not only the piston head, but also the ribs of its annular sections. In addition, the elastic material of the piston cannot damage the inner surface of the bore. The above allows us to conclude that the claimed device provides the claimed technical result, which is in a direct cause-and-effect relationship with the declared set of essential features.

The inventive device is illustrated in Fig. 1, where shown general form in the section.

The figure shows a visher having a central rod 1 with an end section 2 intended for ramrod attachments (not shown). The piston body 3 is made of elastically deformable material, rubber is used, is equipped with end grooves 4 and is rigidly connected to the central rod 1.

The inventive device is used as follows. The end part 2 of the visher is placed on the cleaning rod and fixed. First, the barrel of the gun is treated with cleaning agents. To do this, a patch moistened with a cleaning agent is put on the piston 3 of the inventive visher. After use, the patch is removed from piston 3 and discarded. The treatment operation with cleaning agents is carried out once or repeatedly, depending on the cleaning regulations. Next, the claimed visher (without a patch) is inserted with the head part into the bore from the breech side of the gun, slowly pushing it with a ramrod to the muzzle. The central metal rod 1 provides the necessary rigidity, and the head part of the elastically deformable piston body 3, in close contact with the inner surface of the barrel bore, provides mechanical cleaning of carbon deposits, cleaning agent residues and other removable residues, pushing the removable residues separated from the walls towards the exit from the muzzle of the barrel. Particles of the removed residues that did not separate during the passage of the head part of the piston 3 are successively in contact with the ribs of the annular parts of the piston body, accumulating in the annular grooves 4, and are pushed out of the barrel bore during a single pass of the visher.

The inventive device makes it possible to expand the range of devices for cleaning weapon barrels and provides effective cleaning with minimal labor costs.

1. A device for cleaning the barrel of a weapon in the form of a visher, representing a tip with the diameter of the working part, consistent with the caliber of the barrel, with an end section for fixation on the ramrod, characterized in that the tip is a piston made of elastically deformable material, rigidly connected to a metal rod , passing along the axial line, the piston is made in the form of a body of revolution with annular grooves along the generatrix.

2. A device according to claim 1, characterized in that elastic polymers are used as an elastically deformable material.

Andrey L.
Cleaning a weapon is not an idle question for any shooter, be it a hunter, an athlete, a sniper or just an amateur. At the same time, there are a great many recipes for “correct” cleaning, and this topic is the reason for writing more and more new articles and heated debates. Despite the variety of existing methods and recommendations, it seems possible to highlight some general tips for cleaning weapons. In addition, with the gradual increase in popularity on the Russian market of both new imported models of high-precision rifled weapons and various chemical care products, the appearance of an article devoted to methods for cleaning rifled barrels in the West seems very timely.

When firing from a rifle, as a result of the shot, both combustion products of gunpowder and the cartridge primer (carbon deposits) and sedimentation of bullet shell particles (copper plating) occur in the barrel as a result of the shot. It is immediately necessary to make a reservation that we will limit ourselves to primarily considering firing a bullet with a copper jacket and a non-corrosive primer from a non-chrome-plated barrel. Cleaning the barrel for other options (steel-jacketed bullets, lead bullets, chrome-plated barrels, etc.) does not differ significantly from the option under consideration, although some differences, of course, cannot be forgotten.

It is advisable to clean the rifle after finishing shooting, if possible without delaying it for too long. Although modern Boxer primers do not emit corrosive products during firing, when shooting Russian-made cartridges or military surplus cartridges, in the vast majority of cases you will encounter corrosive Berdan primers. Moreover, experience shows that in good weather Spending an extra half hour at the shooting range cleaning a rifle is much more pleasant than doing it at home, often in a room poorly suited for such work with insufficient ventilation.

Accessories

To clean the barrel of a rifle, it is advisable to acquire the following accessories:

A good cleaning rod suitable for the rifle caliber. It is desirable that the cleaning rod be one-piece, with a plastic coating and a bearing in the handle. Dewey is considered the quality standard in the American sports shooting community, although there are analogues from other manufacturers.

Rice. 1. Various accessories and chemicals for cleaning the barrel

Visher, suitable for the caliber of the rifle (usually supplied complete with a cleaning rod).

Bronze brush for rifle caliber. As a rule, with proper regular care of the trunk, there is no need to use a brush. Moreover, cleaning chemicals can interact with the brush material itself, and the use of steel brushes in high quality barrels is highly undesirable.

Cotton flannel patches for cleaning the barrel (hereinafter referred to as “patches”). It is desirable that the size of the patches correspond to the caliber in such a way that when pushing the patch along the barrel, it passes under tension, that is, the force on the ramrod is felt, but is not excessive.

Guide bushing for cleaning rod, suitable for rifle bolt group. When cleaning the barrel with patches, bending the cleaning rod can lead to unwanted contact of the cleaning rod with the surface of the chamber or bullet entrance, which can have an extremely negative impact on the accuracy of the rifle. If possible, cleaning the rifle should be done from the breech - the quality of processing of the muzzle significantly affects the accuracy of the combat, so any contact with the muzzle is extremely undesirable. This is why, in addition to cleaning from the breech, it is recommended to push the patch along the barrel in one direction only, and to be extremely careful when pulling the cleaning rod back into the barrel from the muzzle. In cases where the design of the rifle does not allow cleaning the barrel from the breech (some semi-automatic models), it is strongly recommended to use a special cap to protect the muzzle from possible contact with the cleaning rod.

Carbon remover. Hoppe's No.9 Bore Cleaner (the choice of reconnaissance snipers of the US Marine Corps) has proven itself well; other brands include Kroil, Break-Free, and Shooter's Choice.

Copper remover. These cleaners can be divided into two groups - weak alkaline (a typical example is Hoppe's Benchrest Copper Remover) and strong ammonia (such as Sweet's 7.62). The products from the first group, although significantly weaker in terms of removing copper plating, are more gentle on the trunk itself than the potent products from the second. Thus, Sweet 7.62 is not recommended to be left in the barrel for more than 15 minutes, while Hoppe's can be left in the barrel for several hours to combat severe copper plating.

A cradle, slipway or machine for holding a rifle. When cleaning the rifle, it must be firmly fixed so that the cleaning rod can be pushed through with force. If the rifle is equipped with a bipod, it is enough to use it. It is advisable that the barrel of the rifle be slightly tilted forward when cleaning to drain the chemicals.

Cleaning the rifle

The cleaning procedure begins with removing the bolt from the rifle (for bolt-action rifles) and installing the guide sleeve in its place. Often these bushings use a bolt retention system or bolt handle opening to securely lock into the bolt group. Sometimes the bushing is equipped with a rubber seal to prevent chemicals from leaking from the rifle barrel into the chamber and bolt group.

Rice. 3. The sleeve is inserted into the receiver and held by the opening for the release handle

Once the sleeve is securely installed in the chamber, you can proceed directly to cleaning the barrel. You should start by removing carbon deposits - the most easily cleaned component of contamination. To do this, you need to soak one patch in a cleaning agent, then put it on the visher and smoothly drive it through the bore. The easiest way to remove a dirty patch that appears from the muzzle (each patch is used only once!) is to place a garbage bucket under the muzzle - the patch will fall off the visor itself when the cleaning rod is pulled back. This procedure must be repeated several times, each time coating a new patch with a cleaning compound, until the patches come out of the barrel clean (or there are no obvious improvements in the quality of the emerging patch).

Rice. 4. A clean patch is put on the visher and pushed into the barrel through the bushing from the breech

Now you can proceed to removing copper plating from the barrel. The procedure itself in this case is similar to cleaning carbon deposits, but there are several differences. Of course, in this case, a copper remover is used. After running the first two or three patches, generously moistened with an anti-copper solution, you can pause for a few minutes to give the solution time to oxidize the copper deposits. The next time you run the treated patch along the trunk, it will show characteristic blue-green traces of copper oxides. This procedure must also be repeated until the patches come out of the barrel clean.

Rice. 5. At the exit from the barrel, a patch with traces of carbon deposits is removed from the cleaning rod during the reverse stroke

If it is not possible to completely get rid of copper in the trunk, there are several options for further action. The simplest is to treat the barrel with a cleaning agent and leave it to “soak” for 12-24 hours (it is advisable to place the rifle with the barrel down, resting it on a rag, which will absorb the solution flowing from the barrel). After such chemical treatment, copper is removed from the barrel much easier. The second option is to use more strong remedies on an ammonia basis (under no circumstances should it be left in the barrel longer than prescribed by the manufacturer!). The procedure for their use does not differ from that described above for weaker alkaline ones. And finally, you can try using a brush (under no circumstances a steel one!) to remove copper from the barrel. When using a brush, it is recommended to treat it with a cleaning agent, then make about 10 reciprocating movements through the sleeve, smoothly moving the brush along the entire length of the barrel. It is necessary to observe maximum caution and smoothness at the moment when the brush enters back into the barrel from the side of the muzzle - the quality of the cut is crucial for the accuracy of the rifle's fire.

Rice. 6. Some bushings allow you to wet the patch already on the cleaning rod through a special hole in the bushing - in this case, powerful Sweet's 7.62 is used

After completing the cleaning procedure, it is necessary to drive a dry patch through the barrel. If you find no traces of copper on it (very faint traces), the barrel cleaning is complete. Next, you need to run a few more untreated patches through the barrel until they come out completely dry, and, if the rifle is to be stored for a long time, run one or two patches with preservative lubricant through the barrel (in this case, before shooting, the lubricant must be removed with two or three dry patches ).

There are often cases when it is not possible to completely clean a rifle barrel of copper using the methods described above. This usually happens with rifles that have been improperly or irregularly maintained, or rifles with an unbroken barrel. In this case, you can try the barrel break-in procedure described below. There are examples when running-in improved the characteristics of even barrels with significant preliminary firing. There is also a more radical way to clean the barrel - using abrasive agents, such as J-B Cleaner, however, opinions about the benefits and harms of using such products differ greatly and therefore it is not possible to definitely recommend them for use. If no cleaning really helps severe copper plating, there is a method of electrochemical cleaning, but using it at home is extremely difficult and therefore this method is beyond the scope of this article.

Barrel running in

The inner surface of the barrel of almost any new rifle is imperfect (the exception is hand-polished one-piece barrels) and has pores and irregularities left as a natural result of the barrel manufacturing process. When firing, these pores are gradually smoothed out, but at the same time they are filled with copper from the bullet casing, which leads to a strong increase in the rate of accumulation of copper deposits - as a result, the number of shots fired from the rifle without loss of accuracy due to copper plating will be small, and the barrel will be completely cleared of copper is often simply impossible.

To avoid filling the pores and micro-irregularities of the barrel with copper, it is recommended to carry out the barrel running-in procedure according to the following algorithm.

Fire one shot from a new rifle, after which the barrel must be cleaned of copper according to the cleaning procedure described above. This process (cleaning after each shot) must be repeated several times until the copper plating after the shot clearly decreases.

Next, you need to move on to shooting in series of several (in different sources the specific figure varies from 2 to 5) shots, after each series it is again necessary to clean the barrel of copper deposits. The number of series should also be determined by the apparent reduction in copper plating after the series.

Then you need to lengthen the series to 10-20 shots between cleanings, and after several such series the barrel of your rifle will be broken in.

Accurate technical description the processes occurring in the barrel during break-in of a rifle cannot be found in the literature, however, apparently, the break-in process is a gradual polishing of the barrel by firing while simultaneously removing copper from the pores and irregularities. This interpretation explains both the improvement in the quality of a new barrel after break-in, and the benefit of running-in barrels that have already been shot but not run-in.

Individual approach

Rice. 7. Cleaning your rifle at home

There are many legends, myths and beliefs associated with barrel cleaning procedures. Someone considers it unacceptable to use coated cleaning rods, due to the deposition of abrasive combustion products on this coating, which scratch the barrel as the cleaning rod passes (to the question, “Why will these abrasives scratch a steel barrel and not a softer plastic coating?”, the answer is received usually fails); someone considers the use of potent agents in stainless steel barrels unacceptable; someone pushes the ramrod along the barrel only 5-10 cm at a time, and considers feeding the ramrod in one smooth movement absolutely unacceptable; The list can be continued almost endlessly. An article recently appeared in one of the American weapons publications in which the author deliberately subjected his rifle to numerous cleanings in the worst possible way - without a bushing, with a composite aluminum cleaning rod with a steel brush and a terrible pot of chemicals - and was convinced in practice that after such “bullying” the accuracy of the battle his rifle has not deteriorated. All these facts speak only of one thing - cleaning a rifle, in addition to a practical exercise, is also a ritual that will certainly be unique to each shooter, different from all others. In this case, all of the above are just some general considerations, in accordance with which the process of cleaning a rifle can be structured in such a way that it brings both benefit to the barrel and satisfaction to the shooter himself.

Leaving aside debates about the correctness of cleaning a rifled barrel, its necessity in general and the quality of the approach to this process, I will simply describe the entire cleaning process as I do it myself. Surely this article will be a good help for novice users of rifled weapons, and perhaps experienced shooters will find some new and interesting points. Of course, there are also critics who have a diametrically opposite opinion on the need for high-quality cleaning of a rifled barrel and make do with an ordinary “spindle” to maintain their carbine.

Of course, immediately at the beginning of the process, 3 main questions arise:

1. What are we cleaning?

2. What do we clean with?

3. Why do we clean?

So what are we cleaning?

The firing process leaves behind on the inner surface of the barrel carbon compounds and other combustion residues of the primer composition and gunpowder in the form of carbon deposits, traces of bullet casings smeared with a thin film, all this is layered upon layer, forming an aggressive layer cake. The more shots fired, the more layers of the cake we get. Of course, depending on the quality of the rifled barrel installed by the manufacturer, and whether or not the new barrel was prepared for use (polishing, fire running), the amount of contamination can vary greatly. Often, after a couple of shots, there is more dirt in a barrel that has not been prepared for use than in a prepared barrel after five or six shots. But in any case, we get multi-layered, aggressive contamination, which must be completely removed from the barrel.

What do we clean with?

This is a very important question! When buying an expensive rifled carbine, do not spare money on good chemicals, high-quality tools and accessories (cleaning rods, brushes, visers, inserts). Gone are the days when gun stores had two types of oil available for gun care: alkaline and neutral. Today you will find a wide range of chemicals, consumables and tools for high-quality care of your weapons, and qualified sellers will always advise and help in choosing the necessary materials.

My rifle care kit.

Let's start with the main cleaning tool - the cleaning rod. Ramrod must necessarily correspond to the caliber of your barrel, be solid (not prefabricated) and rigid enough to avoid deflection in the barrel bore, and, accordingly, friction of the cleaning rod on the rifling fields, have a protective coating that prevents direct contact of the steel rod of the cleaning rod with the inner surface of the barrel. Also, another important condition for a high-quality cleaning rod is the presence of bearings in the handle, which allow the cleaning rod rod to rotate freely and easily when the patch or brush moves along the rifling of the barrel.

In my use, I had several cleaning rods from different manufacturers, and settled on cleaning rods and replacement attachments for them from an American manufacturer "Dewey". Of course, professional athletes also use more expensive cleaning rods, and even individual “custom” versions, but a cleaning rod from this manufacturer will be quite sufficient for both an ordinary hunter and a shooter who spends a lot of time at the shooting range.

Various attachments are included with the cleaning rod:

Ruffs : There must be several for the required caliber: nylon, brass, nylon on aluminum base(for application and cleaning with solvents). Never use steel brushes when cleaning your weapon.

Vishers : there should be several under different types patches and methods of use.

Pugs: for applying preservative oil.

Aluminum brushes and patch holders for solvents.

Cleaning insert .

To clean the Blaser barrel, which is removed from the stock and has free access to the breech, I do not use an insert; it is easy for me to control the position of the cleaning rod relative to the geometry of the barrel without an insert. In all other cases, I recommend using an insert; it will allow you not to worry about contact of the cleaning rod with the bullet entrance during manipulation. With the insert, it is convenient to apply various chemicals to brushes and patches through the solvent port, avoiding getting into the internal mechanisms of the weapon and on its stock. Overall, the benefits of insertion are plentiful.

Patches.

I use different ones. I definitely recommend felt patches-tampons like VFG or their domestic analogues. They are produced for all kinds of calibers, and are very convenient for cleaning carbon deposits, applying chemicals, and polishing the barrel with pastes. In general, having tried it once, I can’t imagine my cleaning kit without them. Patches made from pressed cotton pads from women's toiletries are quite good and very cheap. Having spent very little time, you can choose the required size for your caliber and cut any quantity with scissors. Such patches are well suited both for removing carbon deposits and for finishing wiping with preservative oil. I also use standard cotton patches, which are mainly used to control the removal of copper plating. I pass such a patch along the trunk after soaking with solvent; the amount of oxidized copper in the form of blue is clearly reflected on the wide surface of the patch.

Chemistry.

Several types are required, each of which is intended for a specific operation.

I use:

Powder soot solvents: WD-40 and penetrating composition Kano Kroil.

More powerful solvents (also removing copper): HoppeS-9 And Eliminator.

Copper Solvents: SweetS-7.62, Robla Solo Mil.

Cleaning and polishing pastes (necessary for polishing a new barrel and when the barrel is heavily soiled): J-B pastes.

Neutral preservative compositions: Ballistol, Silicone Grease.

Weapon machine .

I use a homemade powerful, tough one. It was possible to build this device, which allowed both to clean any weapon in assembled or disassembled form, and to use it as a sighting machine.

The HandMade machine was designed for zeroing rifled weapons and turned out to be universal.

The machine allows you to clean the weapon as if it were assembled (most bolt-on carbines)

The same goes for disassembled parts, for example the barrel of a Blaser carbine or the barrel of a smoothbore weapon.

In no case am I forcing everyone to follow my path; it will be quite enough to have a machine of this type, which is available in weapons stores in various configurations.

And finally, we come to the third question. Why do we clean?

As I wrote above, in the process of firing, and even more so several times, a layer cake of aggressive compounds appears on the surface of the barrel. The thing is that the combustion products of gunpowder and primer composition have an acidic environment, which in turn has a detrimental effect on the surface of the barrel, causing corrosion. By high-quality cleaning using all the materials, tools and chemicals listed above, we disassemble (clean) this entire pie layer by layer and our goal is to disassemble the pie completely, freeing the barrel metal from the aggressive components left behind by shooting.

Well, now, step by step, leaving all the theoretical aspects above, we will consider the entire process of cleaning a rifled barrel.

Let's clean the barrel Blaser caliber 243Win. 15 shots were fired from the barrel with a cartridge containing a bullet Lapua Scenar.

It is convenient for me to clean the Blaser barrel separated from the stock and with the optical sight removed.

I clamp the barrel at a slight downward angle with the muzzle to allow the chemical to drain. I soak the entire inner surface of the barrel with a fairly large amount of WD-40, also passing it several times to distribute the solvent with a nylon brush, and leave it for 10-12 minutes.

We screw the visher and patch onto the cleaning rod and pass along the barrel until the patch comes out of the barrel. The first couple of patches are the dirtiest, and it is not advisable to return the dirt and rub it along the trunk. With the remaining patches we make several reciprocating movements; the limit before the patch leaves the barrel is a mark made of electrical tape on the ramrod axis.

To control the position of the patch inside the barrel, place a note on the cleaning rod.

We clean until the emerging patches have their original white appearance, in my case it turned out to be 10 patches for the first stage of cleaning.

Patches after the first stage of cleaning.

At this point, many opponents of “major cleaning shamanism” would have finished the whole process, because the last patch was almost snow-white, which means, in their opinion, the trunk is clean.

Well, we will continue. Having removed the carbon deposits, and even then not all of them, because it still remains under the layers of copper, we will begin to soak the dirt using a penetrating composition Kano Kroil.

I think it's the best remedy today for cleaning weapons. Possessing high penetrating ability, Kroil swells the resulting dirt film, which facilitates its further removal with patches.

We apply Kroil using a brass brush, passing several movements along the entire inner surface until the brush completely exits the muzzle. Under no circumstances should you make a reverse movement with a ramrod with a brass brush without pushing it completely out of the barrel, otherwise the antennae of the brush will break and the brush will not last long. Just as in the first stage, we leave the barrel alone for 10-12 minutes to soak. After a while, the visher and clean patches are back, and what we see: it seems that the trunk has already been cleaned until the patches are snow-white, but after a little soaking with Kroil, the first patch is no different from the first patch of a dirty trunk. At the second stage, 8 patches were spent until white came out.

Patches after the second stage of cleaning.

For soaking with solvents we use an aluminum patch holder.

This product dissolves carbon deposits well and actively oxidizes deposited copper. We pass the moistened patch along the trunk a couple of times and leave it now for 15-20 minutes for the composition to actively work with the contamination. Now, after time has elapsed, on a patch driven through the barrel, we see the remains of gunpowder residue and a layer of copper that begins to oxidize after the layer of carbon deposits (a slight blue tint can be seen on the dirty patch). After the third soaking, 3 patches were enough to get it clean, due to the fact that the bulk of the dirt had already been removed.

When soaking with solvents, it is imperative not to allow the composition to leak onto the outer surface of the barrel, since with prolonged exposure the solvent eats up the bluing.

Next we clean with felt patches soaked in HoppeS-9. The felt patch runs more tightly along the barrel, efficiently cleaning the rifling and corners of the combat edges. With each new patch soaked in HoppeS-9, I make up to 10 reciprocating movements over the entire surface of the barrel, without the patch leaving the muzzle. It took 8 patches or 80 passes along the barrel until the white patch came out. That's how much dirt still remained in the seemingly clean trunk.

Patches after cleaning with HoppeS-9 solvent.

Once every 50-60 shots, I additionally clean the barrel using a “fine abrasive” pastes J-B blue . The paste, due to its abrasiveness, helps to clean off carbon particles pressed into the metal of the barrel and cannot be cleaned with solvents. You should not overuse cleaning pastes, especially on a barrel that has already been polished and previously run-in, but 10-15 passes of a felt patch lubricated with paste, at intervals of 50-60 shots, will not harm the barrel. And here we again see dirt removed by patches after passes with paste.

After a clean patch appears, we can confidently say that we have cleaned the barrel, only we have not cleaned it of all the components of the layer cake, and this is easy to check. We drive a clean patch into the barrel not reaching the muzzle 0.5-1 cm and hold it up to the light, moving it towards the table lamp, we see layers of copper on the margins and in the rifling.

Traces of copper on the margins and in the rifling.

I use it to remove copper Eliminator or Robla Solo Mil, for which I generously moisten the felt patch in the specified solvent, make several passes along the trunk and leave for 15-20 minutes for the drug to act.

After the time has passed, I run a cotton patch, which clearly shows the amount of copper removed from the barrel; depending on the number of shots, it takes from 1 to 5 soaks until the copper is completely removed.

Cotton patches with traces of copper oxide.

I carry out a control soaking with the most aggressive composition towards copper. SweetS-7.62. I do not recommend leaving it in the barrel for more than 15 minutes. Last soaking with SweetS-7.62 enough to completely remove copper from the barrel.

Now, in order to remove the remnants of aggressive solvents from the bore, we again use penetrating Kano Kroil. Having moistened generously several times, we go through the patch, and then another dry patch.

We clean the chamber with reciprocating, circular movements, using a short cleaning rod with a suitable brush and a flannel cloth wrapped around it.

That’s it, the barrel is cleaned “to zero”, that is, perfectly clean. Depending on whether the carbine will be used in the near future or not, I leave the barrel dry or, for long-term storage, pass it through with preservative oil. Ballistol.

Patches after all stages of cleaning.

Cleaning the barrel after 15 shots required very few consumables and a fairly small amount of time. Of course, the main time interval is spent on soaking with solvents and, as a rule, there are other activities during these intervals.

I would also like to warn novice users of rifled weapons that this cleaning “to zero” with such a small consumption of materials and time becomes possible only after proper preparation of the barrel for use, that is, the specified Blaser barrel has gone through a full cycle before use.

Cleaning the shutter.

We wipe the outer surface of the barrel with preservative oil.

We collect. The carbine is ready for further use.

I would also like to add about the need to have such a small set for people traveling with their own weapons. Be it long hunts or rafting. Create such a kit for yourself and you can always service your weapon outside the home.

My traveling kit for 20 and 308 caliber combo guns.

Let your carbine serve you for a long time and please you with excellent results both when shooting at targets and during real hunting.

Alexey Suvorov

None of the knowledgeable people will argue: cleaning weapons is a necessary matter. Regardless of whether we use it or it just sits in our closet, nevertheless, weapons tend to get dirty over time. Especially, of course, it gets dirty during use: during shooting, while hunting, and if it military weapon– even during the battle.

This raises a whole list of questions: how to properly clean a weapon, what cleaning agents are best to use for this, how often cleaning is necessary, with what devices, etc. If we know why cleaning is needed and apply our knowledge in practice, our weapon will serve us long and reliably.

How do weapons get dirty?

Naturally, weapons are most intensively contaminated as a result of shooting. It is also clear that the trunk is exposed to the greatest contamination. When fired inside the barrel, a high pressure. Residual products that are formed during the combustion of gunpowder and as a result of ignition of the primer are deposited on the inner surface of the barrel. These products affect the metal, and therefore the barrel, in the most destructive way. In addition, these deposits spoil the polishing of the barrel.

It should be remembered that potassium chloride, which is part of the primer, is much more harmful to weapons than gunpowder residues. When fired, its particles come into contact with the surface of the barrel, which is why at the points of contact the steel loses its original properties and becomes fusible. The powder gas generated during the shot melts the steel fragments and pushes them out. As a result, the inner surface of the trunk becomes rough, and a rash and small shells form on it. This process is known to gun owners as “bore-flashing.”

And this is not all the harmful effects of potassium chloride. It also has the property of drawing atmospheric moisture into the barrel, which causes the steel in the barrel bore to corrode and rust. In addition to potassium chloride, the primer contains mercury, the residues of which penetrate deep into the metal, resulting in microcracks that contribute to further deterioration of the barrel.

Due to the heating of the barrel during the shot and cooling after it chemical reactions, promoting the height of the trunk, last from 3 to 5 days. If at the same time the weapon is fired intensively every day, then due to the friction of the bullet passing along the barrel, the process only intensifies. And it will get worse until the weapon is cleaned.

There are three main stages of cleaning weapons:

pour alkaline oil (solvent) into the inside of the weapon;
clean the weapon;
lubricate the weapon.

Of course, when cleaning weapons of various systems, there are many features that must be taken into account.

Cleaning rifled weapons

Basic rules for cleaning rifled weapons:

Rifled weapons should be cleaned in the following sequence: first the breech, then the muzzle. That is, in accordance with the direction of flight of the bullet;
The cleaning rod should also move in the same direction - from the breech to the muzzle. In this case, it is recommended to change the patch (a special napkin rolled onto the wipe, called a visher) more often. The patch is a disposable device, so it is not recommended to use it repeatedly;
It is not recommended to move the cleaning rod for cleaning weapons in the “back and forth” mode. This may cause scratches inside the barrel. Moreover, the brush and patch are easily clogged with particles deposited on the walls of the barrel;
The brush for cleaning weapons should be chosen not soft, but hard. Soft bristles very quickly become clogged with hard carbon deposits settled inside the barrel, and it is very difficult to remove it from a soft brush. On the contrary, a brush with a stiff brush is much more effective in this sense, since it cleans the inside of the barrel more reliably. In this case, you need to ensure that the brush remains dry (as well as the patch), otherwise, again, residual particles in the barrel bore will stick to them;
It is advisable to clean your weapon immediately after shooting. It is highly recommended not to postpone cleaning until the next day. The reasons for this requirement were discussed above;
It is necessary to periodically clean the weapon even if no shooting has been done from it. In this case, the lubrication is not so intense;
If the weapon was fired, then, as stated, it should be cleaned immediately after firing. After 2-3 days, the weapon must be cleaned again, and after another 2-3 days - a third time. And only then can rifled weapons be stored for a long time, but it should be remembered that even during long-term storage they must be cleaned periodically;
It is most necessary to clean the muzzle part and the bullet entrance - as the most “easily damaged” parts of the barrel;
When cleaning rifled weapons, it is very undesirable to use a variety of “homemade” products: homemade compounds, lubricants not intended for weapon cleaning. You cannot use homemade alkaline compounds; you also cannot immerse the weapon or its individual parts in highly alkaline solutions. Such an amateurish approach to cleaning weapons can simply ruin the weapon;
After cleaning, the gun barrel, as well as all cleaned components and mechanisms, must be lubricated with gun oil.

To clean your weapon more efficiently, you can use a stand or a weapon cleaning machine. These are special devices on which the weapon is conveniently fixed. In addition, the machine and stand have special niches for storing gun oils and other cleaning and lubricating products. At the same time, the stand for cleaning weapons is very compact, so if you wish, you can take it with you even when hunting or to shooting sports competitions. You can make it yourself, or you can buy a branded one.

Cleaning smoothbore weapons

Smoothbore weapons, like all other types, need to be cleaned. It is important to know the frequency of cleaning such weapons. There are many opinions on this matter, but most knowledgeable people states that shotguns should be cleaned at least monthly - even if they have not been fired or removed from the safe.

However, there are situations when weapons need to be cleaned more often:

After purchasing a gun – especially a new one;
After the gun has been zeroed;
After each day spent hunting;
After the hunting season is over.

After purchasing the gun, you need to clean it to remove the factory grease, and also check how the gun is assembled and whether there are any defects in it. During the zeroing process, the gun must be cleaned after each shot. This will help determine how accurate the gun is. When it comes to cleaning a gun during a hunt, everything is clear and without explanation: it is during hunting that the gun gets dirty the most. Well, during the “dead season” the gun is cleaned for preventive purposes: during storage in the closet, moisture may accumulate in the weapon.

Smoothbore weapons are cleaned in the following sequence:

First, the barrel is broken or dismantled (depending on the design of the weapon);
A brush screwed onto a cleaning rod is passed over the inside of the table to remove substances harmful to the weapon that were formed during shooting from the barrel;
You need to change the brush on the cleaning rod to a brush into which the patch is inserted, and with the help of such devices the barrel is cleaned until there are no signs of soot or soot left in it. In this case, the patch needs to be changed periodically;
If several rags have already been replaced, but traces of burning are still not completely removed, then in this case the rag should be moistened with turpentine or kerosene;
After the contamination from the barrel has been completely removed, a brush with stiff bristles is put on the cleaning rod, onto which a universal or neutral lubricant is previously applied, and the entire inside of the barrel is covered with this lubricant;
From the outside, dirt is removed from the entire body of the weapon, after which the body must be lubricated with a thin layer of lubricant;
The wooden parts of the weapon are also cleaned of dirt and lubricated;
After this, the gun must be collected and stored in a safe.

When cleaning, care must be taken to ensure that no moisture gets into the barrel. If a weapon is cleaned in winter, then in this case the gun is allowed to “sweat” by wrapping it in a warm rag.

However, all this is good if the weapon is not rusty, but if it has already begun to rust, then more radical means are needed. In this case, the barrel is cleaned using a metal brush and a hard brush. In this case, the brush and brush, as well as the rod for cleaning the barrel, are moistened with dehydrated kerosene. If there is a lot of rust and it is old, then kerosene should be poured into the barrel, the barrel itself should be plugged with a tight plug, and everything should be left like that for 24 hours. After this, the barrel needs to be cleaned using the same brush and brush.

But if rust has formed on the outside of the weapon, then waterproof glue can come in handy. First, use a hot soda solution to wash off all the grease from the gun. The glue is then diluted in hot water, and this substance is applied to the surface of the weapon - to the part where the rust appeared. The glue dries instantly, after which a universal lubricant is applied to the treated surface.

Even if such a product does not cope with the rust, you can try to remove it by preparing the following solution:

Ammonium sulfate – 28 g;
Ammonium carbonate – 13 g;
Ammonia water – 170 g;
Distilled water – 100 g.

The prepared solution must be poured into the barrel, plugged into the barrel on both sides, hold the solution in the barrel for half an hour, then remove it, wipe the barrel dry and lubricate it with alkaline oil.

Airgun cleaning

Pneumatics also need cleaning. Not as often, of course, as rifled or smooth-bore weapons - but still less so. The air rifle also becomes clogged, and in addition, its charges also leave a mark inside the barrel. In addition, pneumatic barrels are not as high quality as those of other weapons; the steel used to make them is relatively soft, and for this reason such barrels rust easier and faster than those of hunting rifles.

Cleaning an air rifle is necessary in the following cases:

Between 100 and 200 shots;
When the rifle’s accuracy decreases (the rifle begins to “spit”);
When smoke and sparks are visible from the barrel when fired.

You can start cleaning the pneumatic barrel from either end. The process of cleaning the “air” consists of four main stages: removing lead deposits inside the barrel, degreasing the barrel, drying and lubrication. After this, the cleaned weapon must be lubricated. When lubrication of a pneumatic barrel, some rather specific nuances should be taken into account.

In principle, lubricant for an air gun is needed “to the extent”, but still the charge moves through a lubricated barrel more easily. However, if the barrel is over-lubricated, the accuracy of the combat will decrease in this case (the rifle, again, will “spit” in different directions). It is best to lubricate the barrel with some neutral gun oil. Moreover, in an extremely thin layer.

Cleaning 12 (16, 20) gauge weapons

To clean 12, 16 and 20 gauge weapons, in general, you will need the same set of tools and tools as described above. And the sequence of cleaning and lubricating the barrel and individual components is the same.

The only “know-how” here is that many experts and practitioners advise cleaning the barrel of a gun not with a rag, but with a ball made of toilet paper. Such a ball is driven into the barrel and pushed along the entire length of the barrel using a ramrod with a brush mounted on it. It is claimed that toilet paper is much better at cleaning the barrel than rags. For an ideally positive result, it is recommended to clean it with several of these balls.

Weapon cleaning products

Over the entire existence of firearms, innumerable devices have been invented for cleaning them, ranging from the most primitive to the most modern, which can be found in the catalog. We won’t talk about ancient methods like cleaning the bore with crushed bricks here. Let's talk about some of the most popular modern means for these purposes:

German-made gun oil Ballistol 50 ml (liquid);
Gun oil of the same production Gunex 2000 200 ml in the form of a spray. Cleaner for cleaning dirt inside the barrel Robla Solo MIL 100 ml in liquid form. Made in Germany. All three of these products are included in the kit with which you can clean and preserve weapons;
For the same purposes, there is also an American BIRCHWOOD-CASEY Value Pack;
Foam for cleaning weapons. Actually, the global chemical industry has produced a lot of foam samples for these purposes. For example, Armatech 210 ml made in Russia. Or - Schmeisser 200 ml made in Germany. And so on;
A product for cleaning weapons from soot and soot, as well as for protecting against corrosion, Ballistol Robla Solvent. The solvent is available in the form of an aerosol, and perfectly cleans the barrel - especially when using charges with black powder. In addition, the solvent has excellent corrosion resistance;
A set for cleaning weapons with a special flexible snake, and weapons exclusively of 12 gauge. Made in the USA;
Alkaline composition "Taiga" made in Russia. It is remarkable because it can be used to effectively clean any weapon - rifled, smooth-bore, pneumatic. At the same time, its cost is very small.

This list could be continued, but it’s better to look at the catalog and choose a product that suits your taste and budget.

To summarize, we can say that cleaning weapons is the most important condition so that it serves faithfully for many years.

If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them