Knowing the basic principles of electrical work, you can do the wiring in the house yourself and save a sufficient amount. The basis of all subsequent types of construction work, after the construction of walls and roofs, or before overhaul, there is a correct wiring installation. I will try to talk about the most basic principles of electrical installation.
Moreover, it is not difficult to make it with your own hands, but for this you need to have the necessary knowledge and equipment. Equipment can be bought, but we will try to talk about the necessary knowledge in a popular way.
How to make electrical wiring?
1. Wiring diagram.
In most cases, the wiring diagram is compiled by the owner of the construction arbitrarily, in other words, from the bulldozer. And, as a rule, when the masters who came to do this work are standing over his head.
The schema is as follows. Using a piece of chalk or a piece of brick, draw the locations of sockets and switches on the walls. Switches near the doors, and sockets in the corners of the rooms. Are you familiar with this situation?
After the completion of construction work, the sockets are behind the furniture, and the switches behind open door, which, you see, is not very convenient.
The quality of the execution of the wiring diagram can be judged by the number of electrical extension cords and tees used in housing after the completion of construction work.
Therefore, the wiring diagram, indicating the location of sockets, switches and junction boxes, must be prepared in advance. You also need to calculate the required load, wire cross-section, and divide consumers into groups.
There must be at least two groups of consumers, that is, two circuits. One is lighting and the other is sockets. It is better if each room in the house has such two circuits separately. In addition, each powerful electrical appliance - an oven, electric stove or boiler must have a separate connection with its own machine.
It is imperative to coordinate this scheme with the location of heating pipes, water pipes and gas in the premises, the future arrangement of furniture and the place of stationary household electrical appliances. It is forbidden to place the socket closer than 50 cm from various pipes, radiators and sinks.
The socket can be located at the height from the floor that suits you best. In most cases, this is 30-40 cm from the floor. But be sure to consider the thickness of the screed and the future floor covering.
If you are in doubt whether to put an outlet here or not, put it on. It is better to have an extra outlet than not have it in the right place. After all, the arrangement of furniture in the apartment can change at any time.
And now about the requirements for switches. The switch should be located at a distance of 90-95 cm from the floor and 15 cm from the doorway, near the door to the room, and always on the side of the door handle.
The location of the switches should be such that it is clear which switch is responsible for which lighting circuit.
In the off position, the upper part of the switch should protrude, and in the on position, the lower part.
Two single-gang switches will always be better than one two-gang. But this requirement does not apply to chandelier switches.
The switchboard should be located in an accessible, dry place, preferably near the front door, at a height of no more than 70 meters from the floor. In no case in the bathroom or pantry, especially not in the wardrobe. Near it there should not be any connections of sanitary communications. All current-carrying parts in it must be closed.
2. Wire selection.
The wire must have conductors with different colors of insulation. Therefore, you need to take the entire wire of one manufacturer with the same color range of cores.
For wiring, it is best to use a solid copper wire, brand VVG - flat in double insulation. Better with the letters NG, which means non-flammable. Be sure to buy wire marked with trusted and well-known manufacturers. When buying, require a quality certificate for it from the seller. Do not take unmarked wire of unknown origin, even if it is much cheaper. Wiring in the house is done for more than one year and you can’t save here.
Do not use aluminum wire. With the same cross section, copper wire can withstand power 1.5 times more than aluminum. And with the current filling of the home with various household appliances, this is very important. In addition, copper wire is more durable, strong, less prone to corrosion than aluminum.
And now attention. For capital wiring, you cannot use a stranded soft wire of the PVS grades (like this - it is double-insulated, round) and ShVVP (like this) - they are mainly used only for extension cords. Such a wire has more resistance, and the electrical conductivity is lower than that of a single-core wire, so it heats up more when loaded. Although it is soft and easy to lay in the manufacture of wiring.
Do not use for electrical wiring in an apartment or house, at the same time wires of different brands and from different metals.
And now attention. Remember one of the basic rules for selecting the wire section. So that the wire does not heat up, one of its squares or 1 mm2 of the wire section must carry a total current of not more than 9 amperes, that is, devices with a power of not more than 2 kilowatts can be connected with such a cable.
Based on this, the following cable with a cross section of one core must be used in combination with the appropriate circuit breakers:
One more thing. If you plan to install sockets with grounding, and you have a ground loop equipped in accordance with all the rules, then you need to use a three-core copper cable for the sockets. Modern rules for organizing electrical wiring require the installation of sockets only with grounding.
But do not install sockets with grounding if the wiring is two-wire, without a ground wire! This can be confusing for the consumer. He may think that the outlet is protected by grounding and bitterly pay for it.
3. Choice of equipment.
When buying sockets and switches, pay attention to their quality and the presence of markings on withstand power. Do not buy very cheap and very expensive. Take the average price category. In my opinion, the difference in price does not cover the difference in quality.
Buy installation boxes (sockets) for them of the appropriate size and quality. All imported sockets and switches are designed for European standard installation boxes with a diameter of 68 mm.
If you plan to make a panel strip from sockets and switches, then the sockets should have special protrusions on the sides to connect them to each other, at a certain distance.
Circuit breakers, and other switchboard equipment, buy only well-known and trusted brands. It's not worth saving money here.
4. Installation of electrical wiring. Wire laying.
In houses with wooden walls, wiring is done externally. If you need to make an internal one, then only in a metal pipe. Sockets, switches and junction boxes in a wooden house can only be installed outdoors. If it is necessary to install internal, then also only in special installation boxes for wooden structures. All wire connections must be located only outside the walls.
In a brick house, wiring can be both internal and external. Near combustible structures made of plastic or wood, a metal cable channel is used to protect the wire. To protect the wire inside the walls, a plastic corrugation is used, and on the outside of the finished walls, a plastic box is used.
For internal wiring, two methods are used. The first, under plaster - from above along the walls, and the second, with cutting grooves - strobes in the wall where the wiring is placed. To avoid damage to the wire during further work, the wire must be completely recessed into the recess of the strobe, without protrusions. To cut the strobes, they use various equipment - from a grinder with a diamond disc to a puncher and a special chasing cutter.
It is especially important that according to existing standards, the wire should be laid only vertically and horizontally, and only with right angles. It can not be laid randomly throughout the room. Vertical sections of wires should not pass closer than 10 cm to the corners of the room, as well as window and door openings.
The wires are not laid in a bundle (they cannot be tied together), but each separately, with a distance of at least 3 mm between them. Because in a bundle, the wires have less ability to dissipate heat and can overheat. Also, there should be no intersection of wires with each other.
The wire from each outlet or switch should run vertically up to the ceiling. Then, at a distance of 10 to 25 cm from the ceiling, depending on how thick the ceiling will be (plaster, stretch, drywall), a junction box is placed and a wire channel is formed horizontally to the floor.
If necessary, a horizontal section can be laid - on the ceiling, under the floor, or horizontally to the floor, but not lower than 10-25 cm from it.
Such norms exist so that after covering the wires with facing materials, you know at any time where they pass. Violation of this rule can lead to damage to the wiring and tragic consequences. If you decide to hang, for example, a picture on a wall or a cornice on a window, then you will know for sure that you cannot drill a hole above the socket or switch to the ceiling, as well as at a distance of about 10-25 cm from the ceiling. And in all other places it can be done safely.
At the connection points (socket, box), be sure to leave a wire with a length of at least 25 cm.
The choice of elements for fastening the wire to the wall today is quite diverse. A single wire is best strengthened with the help of such a herringbone mount. It has various shapes and sizes. It is necessary to drill a hole in the wall, preferably not in mortar, but in brick, put this "herringbone" on the wire, and insert it into the hole. The wire is fixed. For mounting a metal or plastic sleeve with a wire, there are also a variety of fasteners.
When outputting wires to the switchboard, they must be marked, glued with masking tape indicating exactly where this wire goes.
5. Wire connection.
Now attention! An important point.
Wires intended for lighting and sockets with a cross section of 1.5 to 2.5 mm2 can be cut, connected and branched from them.
The wire intended for powering electric stoves, flow heaters, that is, for powering powerful electrical appliances, with a cross section of 4 mm2 and above, cannot be cut, connected and branched. It must be solid, and go directly from the shield to the device. In addition, for each such device you need to put a separate machine in the shield.
This rule must never be broken!
The order of connecting the wires, in each case, is different, depending on which consumers are suitable for each particular box.
But there is one iron rule that should never be broken.
Attention! For a break, a wire with a phase, and not with zero, must be connected to the machine or switch.
The connection of wires must be reliable, safe and durable.
Simple twisting is prohibited by the electrical installation regulations. No matter how well it is made, over time the wires oxidize, the contact weakens, heats up and can lead to a fire. The twisting of copper with aluminum is also prohibited, because this is a guarantee of huge problems in the future.
And now about the methods of connecting wires.
The first way is welding wires with a welding inverter. First, a twist is made, and then its end is connected by welding. But not everyone at home has such a welding machine.
The second way is compression. Special sleeves of a certain size are put on the wires to be connected and, using special press tongs, are pressed into the sleeve. But not everyone, again, has such pliers, and the simplest ones cost about $ 20.
The third way is soldering. The twist of wires can be soldered using a soldering iron with a minimum power of 100 watts, tin and solder. The main thing is not to overheat the wires at the soldering point so that the insulation does not melt. This method is more accessible at home, with certain skills, of course.
After all these methods, the wire connection must be insulated with heat shrink or electrical tape.
All of the listed types of connections are reliable, but they are non-separable, time-consuming, and already outdated. Among other things, their implementation requires special equipment, and installers charge more for such connections.
So here I want to say a very important remark.
Namely, why is it not necessary to use these wire connections in a house or apartment: welding, crimping and soldering?
Because, any of the modern self-clamping terminal blocks manufactured by WAGO, and not Chinese fakes, can easily withstand the current that is used in a residential area. In addition, no additional tools and insulation are required for such a connection. Everyone can connect the wires using a terminal block with their own hands. And if necessary, you can easily change the circuit, because the connection with the help of terminal blocks is collapsible.
Again I ask for your attention. It is very important. AT modern wiring, a cable with a cross section of up to 2.5 mm2, must be connected only with terminal clamps, and use machines for them no higher than 16 amperes.
And the cable from 4.0 mm2 and above, as you remember, I hope, cannot be connected at all, it must be led intact from the switchboard to the device.
6. Verification of the completed electrical wiring.
Be sure after the wiring, you need to once again check the correct connection and connection of all wires visually. You can check them with the device. For such a check, there are special devices for sale (and this is not a tester), but they are not cheap. Therefore, it makes no sense to buy such a device for the home; it is easier to do an independent check by spending an extra hour or two. If errors are found, and this happens, it is necessary, of course, to correct them.
7. Assembly and installation of the switchboard.
The main thing that should be in the shield is a meter and circuit breakers - one common and several for consumer groups. All other equipment, RCD, difavtomat, voltage relay and more, it is advisable to install in order to protect the life of the household and the integrity of the connected electrical appliances.
The main machine is needed in order to de-energize the entire apartment with one movement of the hand. A difavtomat is needed to do the same action automatically.
The residual current device of the RCD is triggered if a differential leakage current appears in the network to which it is connected, when the insulation is damaged, it breaks through the heating element or other element onto the housing. When a person touches damaged wires or non-insulated parts of the equipment, the RCD will instantly turn off the power to the network.
Remember that the RCD does not protect the network from overload and short circuit. That is why the RCD is always connected in series with the machine. These two devices work in pairs, so to speak: one protects against current leakage, the other from overloads and short circuits. If you turn on the RCD without a machine and connect the phase and zero, having received a short circuit, then the RCD will not work. And the wiring, if there are no other protection devices, will burn out along with the RCD.
The differential machine is a unique device that combines a circuit breaker and an RCD. That is, the differential machine is able to protect your wiring from short circuits and overloads, as well as from the occurrence of current leaks.
The voltage relay or UZM (multifunctional protection device) turns off the power supply when it goes out of the range you set. This relay is installed to protect electrical appliances connected to the network from power surges in this network.
The circuit breaker must be accurately sized for the load. Here you need to apply the rule that it is better to put an automatic machine of less power than a larger one. In order for the machine to work earlier and turn off the power, than the wire overheats, a short circuit occurs and the wiring catches fire.
Remember that the machine does not protect the electrical appliance connected to it, but only the wire that feeds it from overheating.
About what kind of machine you need to protect the cable with what section, I already spoke above.
The main mistake here is that people are trying to install machines with more power, which is why wiring burns out and apartments burn out.
The wire does not heat up if a device of the appropriate power is connected to it. Therefore, there is no need to set the machine in terms of power higher than the calculated one.
The machines are of various categories. I won't explain the differences to you.
You only need to remember the following. For all sockets in the apartment, you need to use machines only with the English letter "B".
For lighting, you can use automatic machines of category B and category C.
And for all other power devices, you can use category C machines.
Attention! In no case should category D machines be installed in the apartment; they are designed for powerful machine tools and electric motors with high starting currents.
8. Installation of socket boxes.
A place for an installation box in a brick or concrete wall can be drilled using a puncher with a special nozzle - a crown with a diameter of 70-75 mm. The required cable is inserted into the socket.
Socket boxes are installed after carrying out all the necessary finishing work with the walls. That is, we drill a hole for the socket on a bare, untreated wall, and install the socket on the wall with a complete and finished finish.
This process is simple. The hole for the socket, in a brick or concrete wall, is filled with a quick-hardening mortar, it can be a mortar of building gypsum.
Then the socket or switch box must be inserted into the hole, aligned to the wall surface and horizontally with a level so that the socket does not protrude from the wall and is not skewed to one side.
In drywall, a hole for the socket is cut out with a special cutter with a diameter of 68 mm and fixed with side clips.
9. Installation of sockets and switches.
There are no special tricks here. It is necessary to remove the top cover of the socket or the switch keys. Connect the wires to the terminals, after cutting them to a length of no more than 10 cm. Lay the wires on the bottom of the socket. Insert the device into the socket until it stops. Fasten the device to the socket with screws and tighten the bolts in the niches on the sides to the stop, which press the special fastening tabs to the socket. Then reinstall the socket cover or switch keys.
After installing sockets, switches and a shield, we apply voltage to the wiring and check the correct operation of all sockets, switches and machines.
10. And the last.
You can do the wiring in the house yourself with your own hands, especially for a person who knows what zero is and what a phase is. But there are many different nuances here that even the so-called experts in this matter incorrectly perform. For example, when building a dacha, I only got to a normal electrician on the fourth attempt. Electrical installation is a very important section of work to trust it to non-professionals.
If you decide to hire an electrician, ask him how he plans to carry out the work and what tool he has for this. Real electricians have the whole set special tool, for carrying out all types of work on the installation of electrical wiring. And if electricians come to you who have one hammer for two and that one is borrowed from a neighbor, then drive them in the neck.
Ask the master where he has already done the wiring and ask the owners about the results. By the way he makes an order for consumables, you can understand his qualifications and draw conclusions. After starting the editing, carefully follow its work, based on the recommendations that I told you about in this video.
And if you want to do the wiring yourself, follow these rules too.
What is not clear, ask in the comments, and you will succeed. Remember that successful wiring depends on care, attention and following the instructions.
Choose the right wires, the power of the machines and try to do high-quality wiring with your own hands.
Video. How to make electrical wiring in the house?
A century ago, introduction to electricity began with a modest "light bulb of Ilyich" suspended from the ceiling by a wire. Today, the power grid is a prerequisite for a comfortable existence and the basis for engineering networks any home, and the key to trouble-free operation of all electrical appliances is reliable wiring ...
More than ever before, people today need electricity, which is needed for almost everything from charging your phone to heating water. In order for the usual lifestyle not to be disturbed, high-quality wiring installation in the house is necessary. For its implementation, the experience and practical rules accumulated by specialists will be useful.
Electricity is a source of comfort
Safety Basics - Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Ignorance or inattention to details can lead to installation errors. With further operation, such wiring in the house will cause malfunctions, damage to property, and sometimes a fire. There are simple rules that allow the master to act not at random, but according to safety rules:
In a new building, before laying the wiring, a place is selected for the switchboard. It is installed close to the entrance, in a non-freezing room. When drawing up a shield diagram, it is wise to immediately think about the RCD (residual current device), the ground loop and other protective devices.
Mounted switchboard
All work on the replacement of electrical wiring (in the old dwelling) must be carried out with the power turned off at the electrical panel. It is required to leave a warning sign on it to avoid an unpleasant surprise.
Wiring in the house is preceded by drawing up a detailed network plan and connecting electrical appliances.
Even if all circuit breakers are turned off, before starting work, the presence or absence of voltage on the contacts or conductive surfaces is checked with an indicator screwdriver.
A warning sign must be hung on the introductory machine
The most common mistakes:
Use of aluminum wires. According to the requirements of the PUE (rules for the installation of electrical equipment), it is allowed to use aluminum wires with a cross section of at least 16 mm² in residential buildings. Wires of this diameter are usually used only in cables that carry current to the house, but not inside it. When replacing wiring, the combination of copper and aluminum parts is unacceptable - at the point of their connection, the contact will burn out over time due to contact resistance.
Insufficient waterproofing. For long and safe operation of the system, it is necessary to take care of the thorough insulation of all wires in rooms with high humidity. Poor-quality insulation most often finds itself in the bathroom, pantry, kitchen or terrace.
Shtroba. A depth of 2-2.5 cm is considered optimal. Grooves with a shallower depth are difficult to plaster.
Chasing the wall for wiring
Cable work. Diagonal laying is prohibited; the wire cross-section must be calculated according to the system parameters.
distribution boxes. To avoid confusion and ease of maintenance, they are placed under the ceiling.
An example of drawing up a wiring diagram in a private house
The scheme of future electrical wiring is based on the plan of a private house. It consists of two parts, electrical and mounting. The main elements are outlined schematically, “for themselves”.
Electric circuit. The wiring diagram in a private house shows the method of including energy consumers in the circuit and their number.
Wiring diagram example in country house
Assembly diagram. Specifies where to mount devices. This data will help you calculate the number of cables and additional consumables needed.
Mounting version of the wiring diagram
The main elements of the network include wires, sockets, switches, meters, fuses and relays, junction boxes, in addition:
entry point for external power cable;
connection points for high power household appliances;
ceiling and wall lighting fixtures.
The beginning of the power supply of the house is the electrical panel. A supply wire is supplied to it from the outside (more often through an overhead line), supplying a single-phase or three-phase current.
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
An example of drawing up a plan for the location of electrical equipment on video:
To increase reliability, consumers are divided into groups on the shield (connection by groups of points):
Lighting.
Socket sockets.
Power elements (boiler, electric stove, washing machine).
Household groups (basement, garage).
Breakdown of consumers by rooms or floors is allowed. In this case, each group needs individual protection devices (automatic devices, RCDs).
Each room has a lighting and socket group, there are more of them in the kitchen (warm floor and electric stove are connected as a separate group). For powerful household appliances and circuit lamps in the bathroom, grounding is provided (connection via a cable with an additional residential "ground").
Preparatory work for the electrical wiring device
So that the wiring in a country house does not cause problems during operation, preparatory work and calculations are carried out. These include the calculation of the total power of the devices planned for installation; based on these numbers, the cable is selected.
The power of some household appliances
Power consumption calculation
The total power consumption is the sum of the individual capacities of household appliances, lighting elements and power equipment. These values are taken from special tables; they can be found in the technical data sheets of the devices.
To independently obtain the final power consumption of the devices, it is necessary to sum up the power of all consumers on this wire. It is known that at the same time all devices are not turned on. Therefore, the resulting amount is multiplied by the demand correction factor (simultaneous use factor). The coefficient is 0.8 (if the total power is less than or equal to 14 kW), 0.6 (up to 20 kW), 0.5 (up to 50 kW).
Example: if the resulting number is 32.8 kW, then the estimated power consumption is: 32.8 * 0.6 \u003d 19.68 kW.
By dividing the total power by the voltage (220 V), you can find out the maximum current. For example, if the power turned out to be 5 kW (5000 W), the current strength is 22.7 A.
A visual example of calculations in the video:
Choice of cable section by length and power
The cable cross section is selected according to the previously determined maximum load current and the conductor parameter (current density for this material). With a current strength of 22.7 A and a conductor density of 9 A / mm2 (copper), a conductor with cross section(PPS): 22.7/9=2.5 mm2.
Copper is considered best material due to its properties: wear resistance, high thermal and current conductivity (even during oxidation), ductility. Copper wire lends itself well to twisting and can withstand a load twice that of aluminum of the same section.
Calculation of the section according to the load (kitchen)
The optimal cross section for the socket group is considered to be 2-2.5 mm2, 1.3-1.5 mm2 will be sufficient for connecting lighting devices, for powerful electrical appliances it is better to play it safe - at least 4 mm2.
The length of the cable is calculated by taking measurements of all straight sections with the addition of an allowance of 10-15 cm on each side. The approximate length of the cable can be obtained by multiplying the area of \u200b\u200bthe premises by two.
The sequence of installation work
Installation work requires an integrated approach. They begin after the acquisition of the cable. Additionally, electrical accessories are purchased: sockets, socket boxes, switches, cable channels and junction boxes.
All materials must be prepared in advance.
Ground Loop Installation
Any private house is necessarily supplied with a ground loop, which performs several tasks:
Protects the inhabitants of the house when voltage appears on the device case.
Maintains the safe operation of appliances operating in a humid environment (washing machines and dishwashers, electric stoves, boilers and instantaneous water heaters).
Reduces the level of noise (interference) in the electrical network.
The circuit is mounted in the ground next to the house; inside, grounding is connected to the electrical panel. It is required for:
high power electrical engineering;
light sources (chain groups) in bathrooms.
Switchboard installation
Installation of switchboard elements
After the electricity connection scheme in a private house is selected, and the consumers are divided into groups, a switchboard is mounted. It contains:
-
neutral bus and main ground bus.
circuit breaker and RCD - common;
automatic machines and RCDs - for selected groups;
On the shield, the function of the core can be determined by the color of its insulation:
white (sometimes red, black or brown) corresponds to the phase;
blue - zero;
yellow-green - protective earth.
The final switchboard for electrical wiring in a private house is assembled after the wiring is completed.
Applicable wire colors
Installation of electrical wiring of closed and open type
Wiring in a new house is laid in two ways - open and closed, and the first option is often chosen if the second cannot be used.
Open wiring. It is laid over the walls and, if desired, protected by cable channels. It has its advantages - it is always available for inspection. At the same time, like any technical element in the interior, it hurts the eye. The exception is the design of rooms in the loft or retro style, where such solutions are welcome.
With open installation, the cable is fastened with brackets to the surface, then it is closed with a box. Recesses for sockets and switches are made with a puncher or drill.
Box (cable channel) for open wiring
Hidden wiring. With hidden installation, you have to ditch the walls (punch channels), lay the wires and hide them behind the wall trim. This method is more reliable and durable, but at the same time time-consuming and costly for future alterations. In order not to touch the cables when drilling walls in the future, it is worth stocking up on a network layout plan.
Electrical wiring in the house is done according to an invariable rule: laying is done strictly horizontally or vertically, any other way is not allowed. Bends are made at right angles.
Before installation, in accordance with the scheme, walls, horizontal and vertical sections are marked. This can be done using a laser level or a plumb line smeared with chalk or charcoal. You can take pictures of the walls with the markings applied. The memo will help in the future not to touch the wiring with a drill or a nail.
You need to draw a diagram of the location of the wires inside the walls
With hidden installation, strobes (grooves in the wall surface) are pierced with a chisel or grinder or a special chasing cutter. The wires are placed in strobes, they are fixed and masked with plaster or alabaster. Sometimes hidden wiring is carried out not in the strobe, but under the plinth, which retains access and the possibility of verification.
Wiring in a wooden house
The organization of wiring in such a dwelling has its own characteristics. Internal wiring with wires buried in the walls increases the likelihood of fire for wooden structures. Therefore, the open version is the safest.
Electrical wiring in a wooden house
It is preferable to use a flat cable; to prevent sagging, it is fixed with fasteners made of tin or plastic.
When the network is assembled and all elements are connected, the serviceability is checked.
For wiring errors in a wooden house, see the video:
Lead time and approximate cost of some works
Turnkey electrical installation in a cottage is completed in 4-6 days on average. Complex installation will cost 18-60 thousand rubles, replacement of wiring - 15-36 thousand rubles.
Electrical wiring on the floor of a private house will be carried out for 9-12 thousand rubles.
A comprehensive replacement of wiring in a wooden house will cost 18-29 thousand rubles.
Laying a cable with a cross section of up to 4 mm in a strobe - 25-30 rubles. for m/n.
Laying a cable with a cross section of more than 4 mm in a strobe - 42-55 rubles. m/n.
Chasing plaster walls - 75-85 rubles. for m / n, brick - 92-100 rubles. for m / n, concrete - 105-112 rubles. for m/n.
Electrical panel assembly (meter + 3 machines) - 980-1100 rubles.
Connecting an electric meter with installation (220 volts) - 665-720 rubles.
Connecting an electric meter (380 volts) - 1050-1130 rubles.
Loft-style interior with exposed ceiling wiring
General rules for connecting to the electrical network
Following the installation of electrical wiring, automatic machines, RCDs and electrical appliances are installed. To put into operation the electrical equipment of a private house, a specialist from the energy supervision, authorized to conduct acceptance tests, is invited.
After checking the safety of the electrical installation, a "Act of approval for connection" is issued, allowing the further use of the equipment. Based on this document, the energy supply organization concludes an agreement with the owner of the house and connects the dwelling to the support.
Clearly about the connection of electrical wiring in the video:
Conclusion
A life modern man so dependent on electricity that even an hour without electricity seems endless to most. Things stop, the rhythm goes astray, plans remain unfulfilled. Faulty installation can lead not only to short-term malfunctions of the system.
Electrical malfunctions (caused by violation of the rules for the construction and operation of electrical equipment and household electrical appliances), according to the Russian Emergencies Ministry, caused 41,374 home fires in 2017. To protect your home and your loved ones, you should take care of many things in advance, but you should start with high-quality electrical wiring.
More recently, the wiring in a private house was made of an aluminum cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm². And that was more than enough to connect a refrigerator, iron or radio.
However, time does not stand for less, and every day the number of household appliances in the house only increases (air conditioners, electric stoves and ovens, boilers, autonomous heating boilers, and so on). In this regard, the load on the electrical wiring increases significantly, which can lead to its failure, followed by a short circuit or even fire.
For this reason, with new construction or repair work, it is first necessary to carry out a new installation of electrical wiring in a private house. To do this, you can either order the services of professionals, or you can do all the work yourself.
In the second case, it will be extremely useful to read this article, since it will describe in detail each of the stages of electrical installation and present all the basic requirements, recommendations and restrictions when performing this type of work.
The main stages of installation of electrical wiring in a private or country house
According to many years of experience in the performance of electrical work, all work can be divided into the following stages:
- Drawing up a power supply scheme (number and location of sockets, switches, lamps, and so on).
- Determination of the installation location of the switchboard.
- Marking ceilings, walls and floors for laying cable and wire products and installing socket boxes and junction boxes.
- Chasing walls for hidden electrical wiring.
- Chasing walls for the installation of a switchboard (when installing an internal shield).
- Drilling holes for the installation of sockets and junction boxes.
- Installation of routes for fastening the corrugation (if the laying of cable and wire products will be carried out in the corrugation).
- Laying of cable and wire products.
- Installation of socket boxes and rough embedding of strobes.
- Disconnection of junction boxes.
- Installation of the ground loop.
- Checking the grounding resistance of the mounted circuit.
- Assembly and installation of the shield.
- Check the functionality of all sockets and switches.
- Installation and connection of sockets, switches and lighting fixtures.
Let us consider in more detail the main stages, in order for the installation of electrical wiring in the house to be carried out efficiently and last at least 20–25 years (this is exactly the minimum service life of copper wiring).
Drawing up a power supply scheme (project for the arrangement of sockets and switches)
During construction or overhaul, the first stage is the development of design estimates. This should be done by specialized organizations with a license. In this article, this option will not be considered, since the purpose of this article is to present detailed description do-it-yourself electrical installation.
In our case, the project (power supply scheme) implies determining the installation locations for sockets, switches, household appliances, lighting devices, a lighting panel and the method of laying wires (hidden or open). Consider what are the main recommendations when developing a power supply plan.
Basic recommendations when drawing up a power supply scheme for a private house
- All cable and wire products, regardless of the installation option, must be carried out strictly vertically or horizontally.
- Cable turns must be strictly 90°.
- The minimum distance from cables to portals, window and door openings should not be less than 10–15 cm.
- The optimal distance from the level of the finished floor to the switches should be 90 cm (in accordance with European standards).
- The optimal height of the socket groups is 30 cm from the level of the finished floor (with the exception of sockets on the working surface in the kitchen, in the bathroom for connecting a hair dryer, razor, boiler, and so on).
- Sockets are recommended to be placed on both sides of the bed or sofa.
- In places where TVs are installed, the number of sockets must be at least 4 pcs (2 pcs for the Internet and a TV cable and 2 for connecting a TV and a tuner).
- For large corridors and rooms, it is recommended to use walk-through switches.
- All powerful consumers (air conditioners, electric furnaces and ovens, boilers, heating boilers, etc.) must be connected exclusively from a switchboard with separately installed protection.
- The optimal installation height of the switchboard is 1.5–1.7 m from the level of the finished floor.
- It is forbidden to lay cable and wire products closer than 20 cm to the gas pipe.
- All metal elements and sockets must be grounded.
What is the usual wiring diagram in a private house
Of course, houses can be very different from each other, but the essence of high-quality installation is approximately the same for everyone, and it is as follows:
- An electric meter is installed on the facade of the building, to which a descent from the overhead line is carried out by means of a wire (the power supply organization is responsible for this part and for the meter).
- In a garage or some other room, a voltage stabilizer (s) and a power distribution panel or automation are installed, which controls and transmits electricity through an incoming copper cable with a cross section of 10–35 mm².
- On the street near the premises where the switchboard is located, a generator is installed that supplies the house in the absence of a centralized power supply.
- A separate switchboard is installed on each floor inside the house, to which the input cable is connected in parallel.
- Separate RCDs are installed in the switchboard for the sockets of each of the rooms, circuit breakers separately for each room and separate RCDs for air conditioners, boilers, heating boilers and underfloor heating systems.
- All powerful consumers are powered strictly from the switchboard, which provides for the installation of individual protection elements (RCD).
- A separate junction box should be installed in each room, in which the input cables, and cable and wire products of the socket group and lighting circuits will then be switched.
Important! When drawing up a power supply plan, it is necessary to take into account the type of supply network. If you have a 3-phase network, then the input cable to the house should have 5 mils, in the case of single-phase power, the number of cores of the supply cable should be 3.
After you have decided on the power supply scheme and the installation locations of electrical accessories, you can start marking the room.
In order to perform the layout of the room you will need:
Initially, with the help of a laser level (water level) and a tape measure, we mark the installation locations of sockets and switches. Further, using a building level or a laser level and a pencil (beats), we mark, using strictly horizontal lines, the descents from the ceiling to sockets and switches for subsequent gating.
Using a laser level, we mark on the ceiling the places for laying cable and wire products for the subsequent installation of fasteners for corrugations and cable laying.
We mark the installation location of the junction box, which should be chosen in such a way that the cost of cable and wire products is minimal.
Important! When marking the ceiling, keep in mind that all cables from sockets and switches and input cables to socket groups and lighting circuits will be brought into the junction box, so when installing corrugation mounts, you need to calculate how many cables will go where.
After marking, when performing hidden wiring, you can start chasing the walls. To do this, you will need either an angle grinder (grinder) or a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner (for dust-free chasing):
Initially, you need to determine the depth of the strobe. Suppose you are mounting a cable in a corrugation with a diameter of 16 mm. In this case, the depth and width of the strobe must be at least 20 mm. The strobes are cut according to a pre-made markup.
Important! It is forbidden to make strobes at an angle or to strobe load-bearing structures (crossbars, load-bearing walls, floor slabs, and so on).
Also, at the stage of wall chasing, it is necessary to make a hole for the installation of an internal switchboard. Its dimensions depend on the number of modules. In most cases, a switchboard for 24–36 modules should be installed on each floor (depending on the number of rooms and the number of household appliances).
Drilling holes for sockets and junction boxes
For this we need:
To drill holes, turn on the “drilling + drilling” mode, insert the necessary crown and drill the required number of holes in pre-marked places.
Important! When installing several sockets side by side, it is necessary to buy connecting junction boxes, apply them to the installation site, and only then drill holes. Since otherwise you will not be able to install sockets with overlays that are installed under one bar.
Installation of cable and wire products
In most cases, with high-quality installation, all cable and wire products are laid in the corrugation. This provides additional cable protection, simplifies installation and makes possible subsequent replacement in case of cable failure without opening the walls and violating the repair. It is also worth noting that do-it-yourself wiring in a house in 90% of cases is done in a hidden way (in strobes) and very rarely in cable channels in an open way.
What type of cable and wire products to choose
Here, of course, you need to perform a lot of calculations, but based on many years of experience, I would like to note:
- To power the lighting circuits, a cable 3x1.5 mm² (PVSng, VVGng ShVVPng) is required.
- To power the socket group of each of the rooms, a 3x2.5 mm² cable.
- To power household air conditioners, the cable is 3x2.5 mm², but if its power is more than 5 kW, then the cable cross-section must be increased to 4 mm².
- To power the electric stove and oven, the cable cross section must be at least 4 mm².
- To power heating boilers (electric), depending on the type of power supply (single-phase or three-phase), the cable must be from 4 mm2 to 35 mm2 (depending on power). In most cases, the manufacturer writes the recommended cross section and number of cable cores.
Important! When laying cable and wire products, each outlet group must be connected to a separate RCD (namely, RCD according to the requirements of SNiP). Also from individual machines must be connected:
- electric floor heating systems;
- boilers;
- washing machines;
- electric stationary heaters;
- heating boilers;
- air conditioners;
- dishwashers.
What should be the input cable
The input cable from the meter to the house must be calculated according to the nominal value of the input machine (installed after the meter). But in most cases, an input cable with a cross section of 10–16 mm2 is sufficient for a 3-phase network and 16–70 mm2 for a 1-phase supply network.
Installation and disconnection of the junction box
After installation of cable and wire products, you can mount junction boxes in pre-cut holes. For their reliable fixation, it is necessary to use alabaster, which seizes very quickly, after which you can disconnect.
Disconnection is performed in 3 ways:
Important! Wiring in the junction box is best done using cable color coding (blue to blue, brown to brown, yellow-green to yellow-green). This will allow you not to confuse the phase with earth or ground. In this case, the brown (white) wire is the phase, the blue (black) wire is zero, and the yellow-green wire is ground.
Mounting and assembly of the switchboard
After laying the cable and wire products, installing and connecting the junction boxes, you can proceed with the installation of the electrical distribution panel.
How many modules do you need to install the shield
Wiring in a private house involves the installation of a shield on each floor in private houses, cottages or summer cottages. However, in order to find out how many modules you need, you first need to calculate how many consumers there will be. Let's do the calculation for standard variant that, using his example, they were able to do the installation of electrical wiring in the house with their own hands.
Let's say on your floor:
- 3 rooms.
- Kitchen;
- Corridor;
- Boiler;
- Washing machine;
- Underfloor heating system in 3 rooms and kitchen;
- Electric stove;
- 4 air conditioners.
Based on this, in the switchboard you need to install:
- 5 single-pole automatic switches for 10 A (lighting of 3 rooms, kitchen and corridor);
- 14 RCDs for 16 A (3 sockets in the rooms, 1 kitchen socket, 1 corridor socket, 1 boiler socket, 1 washing machine socket, 3 underfloor heating system, 4 air conditioners);
- 1 RCD for 25–32 A for connecting an electric stove.
From the above calculations, the number of occupied modules will be 35 pieces (30 modules occupy 15 RCDs and 5 circuit breakers). That is, we will need a switchboard for 36 modules. However, if you still want to connect a voltage limiter or the number of consumers is greater, then the shield must be mounted on 48 modules.
After mounting the switchboard, RCDs and circuit breakers can be mounted. They are easily mounted on a special DIN rail, which comes as standard with a shield.
Important! When the switchboard is turned off, the phase (brown) wires must go through automata or RCDs, the zero (blue) wires must be collected on the zero bus and the yellow-green wires must also be connected on the 2nd zero bus).
Conclusion
Whether it's wiring in a country house, or a cottage, if properly installed, it will allow you to safely operate household appliances without worrying that a short circuit or fire may occur.
It is also worth noting that when the wiring in a country house is fully installed and connected to the ground loop, it is necessary to test with a megger and a device to test the resistance of the ground loop.
This article “Do-it-yourself wiring (wiring) in a private house: a step-by-step description” will allow you to do the wiring yourself, but it is always better to entrust this matter to professionals.
Related videos
Modern human life cannot be comfortable without electricity at all. When it is absent, it seems that life has stopped, because any household appliance or electric tool requires connection to the mains. Sometimes without electricity it will not even be possible to cook food, not to mention the normal lighting of the home. Therefore, if you are thinking of building, then the wiring diagram in a private house should be a priority issue that should be given Special attention. It is necessary to think over and calculate everything to the smallest detail so that not the slightest mistake or inaccuracy in laying and connecting the power supply network will lead to a breakdown of household appliances in the future, or, even worse, to fire and fire.
What is the need for a schema?
The wiring diagram in a private house is a drawing on which all the main power supply units are applied:
- An introductory line, which is carried out by a branch from the main power line to the house itself.
- Location of the switchboard.
- Protective devices and electricity meter.
- Places for installing junction boxes, switches and sockets in rooms and premises.
- Wiring paths from junction boxes to switching devices.
- Places for installing elements of the lighting network (chandeliers, sconces, lamps).
By the time you do the wiring in the house, it is advisable to clearly define where the main household appliances will be located - a refrigerator, air conditioning, a washing machine, a water heater, a dishwasher. This is necessary in order to immediately mount the sockets next to the equipment, and not later stretch it through the entire carrying room.
If your building belongs to a typical one, which was erected by a construction company (this is how entire cottage villages are being built now), then you should be provided with a building project and a wiring diagram. In the case when the construction is carried out independently, for each house they develop their own personal scheme. But in both versions, the main purposes of the circuit are the same:
- If you have a ready-made schematic drawing, you can make a list of materials that will be needed to complete the wiring in the house. This will help save cash. That is, having a list in hand, you can go through different outlets, calmly decide, choose the most high-quality and suitable for the price of electrical goods. You will not buy anything superfluous and at the same time save yourself from the situation when the installation is already being done, and some materials are not enough, and you urgently run to the first store you come across to buy them at any price.
- The wiring diagram will make it possible to determine the maximum load of each electrical unit, which will allow you to correctly select the wire cross-section, calculate the total power, select the necessary protective devices and input cable.
- Also, the scheme will help you competently and rationally plan the sequence of work.
Paperwork
Be prepared for the fact that electrical wiring in a private house will also require your nerves, because in order to obtain a permit to perform work, you will need:
- Contact the organization that has a power line on its balance sheet, from which it is planned to connect the input. They must issue technical conditions (TU) for this connection.
- The next will be an organization or commercial firm, which, according to the issued specifications make a project.
- Again, the energy supply organization will need to agree on the project, and write an application for connection (on the main line, this must be done by their electricians).
- The input line made must be tested by a special electrical laboratory, after which a protocol is issued stating that the input has passed the test and is suitable for operation.
- Now the input cable is brought into the switchboard and connected to the input of the electricity meter, which must be sealed by representatives of the energy sales. After the meter, do-it-yourself electrical wiring is done in the house, or you can invite specialists, you will no longer need any other organizations.
- The last thing left for you is to conclude an agreement with the energy supply organization for the supply of electricity from their side, and for the timely payment of consumed kilowatt-hours from your side.
Entry planning
The most important thing that distinguishes an electrician in an apartment and in a private house is the input. In multi-storey buildings, the input comes to the switchboard, and from there the wiring to the apartments is already going on. And for a private house, it is necessary to carry out layering from the main line passing nearby. The reliability, quality and safety of power supply depends on how competently and correctly you do this. There are two ways:
- Installation of air inlet with cable or insulated wire.
- Underground cable entry.
Before you draw an introductory line for a private house, it is very important to think over and plan it so that it is resistant to strong winds, and also does not carry the risk of electric shock to a person in rainy, snowy or wet weather.
Air entry
Such air entry involves pulling a wire or cable from the nearest support of the main power line to the housing construction.
I would like to warn you right away that air input will be rational if the distance from the support to the house is less than 20 m. In the case when the span is more than 20 m, you will need to install another additional support, which may be on the territory of your site. Such a measure is necessary in order to reduce the mechanical load on the wire. When the span is very large, there is a possibility that the wire may break under the influence strong wind or under its own weight.
How to make an air entry?
- It is necessary to drill a hole in the wall of housing construction and insert a piece of metal pipe or a special plastic corrugation into it (the diameter of the hole and pipe will depend on the cross section of the input wire).
- A bracket with an insulator installed on it is fixed on the wall outside the house.
- Now it is necessary to stretch the steel cable between two insulators (one is on the bracket, the second is on the traverse of the support from which the layers are made).
- The lead wire or cable on the pole is connected to the line wires. Then it is laid along the cable to the house, where it is pulled through the hole made into the building. Every 0.5-0.6 m, it is desirable to fix the wire to the stretched steel cable with plastic or metal clamps.
That's all, the input cable went into the building, where it will already be wound up in the switchboard. As you can see, nothing complicated, but some nuances should be taken into account here:
- It is very important to ensure sufficient tension on the steel cable.
- The wire should be attached to the cable freely, without tension.
- The distance from the ground to the wire should not be less than 3.5 m.
- The cable and the lead wire attached to it along its entire length should not touch any outbuildings, trees or tall shrubs.
- The place where the wire enters directly into the house must be sealed. After it is stretched into the pipe, all the remaining space must be filled mounting foam. You can apply another option - tightly tamp with mineral wool from a non-combustible material.
The best option for air entry to the house is the SIP brand wire (self-supporting insulated wire). Firstly, its insulation is made of materials that are suitable for use in sunlight and precipitation and also withstand significant temperature fluctuations. Secondly, under the insulating layer, in addition to aluminum conductors, there is a steel cable. That is, when installing such a wire, there is no need to stretch a separate carrier cable.
If a single-phase voltage (220 V) is required for private housing construction, then a two-wire wire is required. In the case when a three-phase voltage (380 V) is needed, a four-core wire is required. The minimum cross section of SIP wires is 16 mm 2.
How the installation of air input of electricity is carried out, you can see in this video:
underground input
Laying an introductory cable in the ground has a number of advantages compared to the air method:
- Reliability increases due to the fact that the cable is not exposed to sudden temperature changes, precipitation, strong winds.
- The style and architectural design of the site has a complete look, that is, they are not spoiled by a stretched cable with a fixed wire or additional support. As a rule, it is for this reason that all fashionable cottages and country houses have an underground entrance.
- If this is a summer cottage, where people live only in the summer, and in the winter the housing construction is empty, there is a possibility that hooligans or vandals will cut out and steal the air inlet. With underground laying, this situation is unlikely.
- In the event of a short circuit and an electric arc during an underground entry, there is practically no chance that property and people may be affected. And with air input, the fire that occurred can spread to buildings. So high fire safety when laying cables in the ground is a very important advantage, especially for houses made of wood.
But not everything is so perfect, the soil is also quite an aggressive environment. Chemical composition soil over time can cause corrosion processes, which will render the cable sheath unusable. At the same time, the soil itself can sag and swell, move and freeze. Groundwater, rodents and microorganisms, as well as pressure from the roots of large trees, will also have their effect. Therefore, if you decide to bring electricity to the house underground, take care to protect the cable, lay it in a plastic or metal pipe.
Well, the main disadvantage of underground input is earthworks. Firstly, they must be coordinated with a bunch of various organizations that can have something laid in this land - water, gas or sewer pipes; heating mains; main cable power lines; telephone lines. Secondly, to lay the cable in the ground, you will need to dig a trench, and this is an additional (and decent) cost. If you do it yourself, spend a lot of time and effort. If you hire someone to carry out earthworks, spend money in terms of money.
In order to better understand the scope of work, we recommend watching the following video:
So before you do the wiring in the house, first weigh the pros and cons, consider the advantages and disadvantages, choose the appropriate input option for yourself. And when you are finished with the external power supply, you can safely proceed to the installation of the internal one.
Load calculation
Installing electrical wiring in a private house with your own hands requires preliminary work with your head, that is, mental work, namely, you need to calculate what kind of load your home electrical network will have. To make it easier for you, break all electricity consumers into groups:
- Lighting elements.
- Kitchen appliances (refrigerator, extractor hood, bread maker, electric stove and oven, electric kettle and coffee maker, multicooker and microwave, etc.).
- Low-power household appliances and electrical appliances (computer, TV, music center, etc.).
- Conditioners.
- Electric heating.
- Bathroom equipment (water heater, hair dryer and washing machine).
- Power tools that are used in utility rooms (hammer drill, electric drill, electric lawn mower, pump, etc.).
Sum up the power of all appliances. Correct the resulting figure by multiplying by 0.7 (this is the generally accepted coefficient for switching on devices at the same time). Please note that the power of each group should not exceed 4.5 kW. Based on the calculated load, determine the cross section and brand of wires. Wiring in a private house is carried out with copper wires. For hidden laying, choose the brands VVGng, PUNP, VVG, for open laying - PUGVP, PUGNP. Wiring made in a private house with such wires will have a decent service life (about 10 years), minimal losses and safe operation.
Distribution board
Normatively, the place where the shield can be installed is not standardized in any way. The only condition is that it must be located no closer than 1 m from the pipelines (meaning any pipes - gas, water, sewer).
In which room it is better to mount the shield, it is also not specified anywhere. Many people prefer to install it in some utility rooms, where it will be convenient to perform switching, or located at the entrance to the house. In any case, try to follow these simple rules:
- This room should not be a fire hazard (such as a boiler room). It is forbidden to store gas cylinders and flammable substances near the switchboard.
- It is necessary that the room where the shield is located is dry, that is, it is undesirable to install it next to the bathroom.
- There must be free access to the shield, do not arrange a warehouse from the room where it is located.
In the shield itself are mounted:
- electricity meter;
- introductory machine, it is responsible for the power supply of the whole house;
- several automata for connecting outgoing pantographs according to their breakdown into groups;
- residual current device (RCD), which is paired with an introductory machine.
The shield can be installed in a niche specially made for it, or simply hung on a wall surface.
If the house is huge on several floors with baths, saunas, garages, then one shield is not enough. In such cases, one introductory shield is mounted and additional ones on each floor.
Layout of internal power supply
There are two ways to conduct electrical wiring in a private house - open and hidden. Let's briefly consider each of them separately.
open wiring
The open method of laying wires is also called outdoor, most often used in wooden houses.
Wires can be laid:
- in special plastic boxes;
- on porcelain insulators using a special cable (the so-called retro style).
The diagram should show which route you are going to route the cables and mark the places where the fixing elements (insulators) will be installed.
For open wiring, special outdoor switching devices (sockets, switches) are used.
Hidden wiring
If the structure is concrete, with many technological voids, a hidden method of laying wires is used. It is more difficult, since you first need to make special grooves in the walls, called strobes, into which the wire or cable will be laid. And after that, the laid conductors will still have to be fixed with alabaster or gypsum mortar.
You will also need indoor switches and sockets. Before installing them, holes are made in the walls, socket boxes are also fixed in them with the help of a solution, and only then switching devices are mounted.
Do-it-yourself hidden wiring is easy to do, the only thing that can cause difficulties, take a lot of time and effort is making strobes and holes.
Everything related to electrical work is regulated by the set of Rules for the installation of electrical installations (PUE). Those who are seriously involved in the installation of electrical wiring, it is useful to get acquainted at your leisure with this book. Here we will give the most basic and important points that you should definitely consider before you do the wiring in the house with your own hands:
- All junction boxes, sockets and switches should be easily accessible (not covered with wallpaper, not hidden under plasterboard, not cluttered with bulky furniture that cannot be moved).
- The grounding conductor must be attached to household appliances with a bolted connection.
- The switches are mounted at a height of 60-150 cm from the floor level, the wires are brought to them from top to bottom.
- All wiring connections should be made in junction boxes. Connecting nodes must be securely insulated, it is forbidden to connect copper conductors with aluminum.
- Sockets are mounted at a height of 50-80 cm from the floor level. The distance between sockets and gas stoves, pipes, heating radiators should not be less than 50 cm.
- Electrical wiring wires should not touch the metal building structures of the building (this is especially true for hidden wiring, be sure to consider this point when you lay wires in strobes).
- The number of sockets per room is taken into account at the rate of 1 switching device per 6 m 2 of area. The exception is the kitchen, where you can mount as many sockets as you need to connect all household appliances.
- Horizontal wiring is carried out no closer than 15 cm to the ceiling and floor. Vertically, the wires are placed at a distance of 10 cm from door and window openings. Wires should not be allowed near gas pipes electrical network closer than 40 cm.
We hope that all this conversation was not in vain. Installation of external and internal power supply of your home, you will definitely start by drawing up a diagram. Think with the whole family where and what kind of equipment you want to place, put everything on paper, draw all the switching devices and wiring paths. So it will be much easier for you to calculate the amount of materials needed. Then it remains only to transfer your scheme from paper to real walls and do the installation work.
Installing wiring in a private house is a laborious process, but nevertheless, even a novice electrician can do it! If you are determined to do all the calculation work yourself and have all the necessary tools at hand, or just want to control a working electrician, then we will look at the whole process from A to Z. To make the technology understandable even for beginners (dummies, so to speak), we will consider step by step how to do the wiring in the house with your own hands.
The process consists of several main steps:
- choice of laying method (open, hidden);
- creating a schema;
- marking work;
- choice of constituent elements;
- direct wiring;
- obtaining permission to connect to the local power grid.
Using the example of a new house, consider how to independently conduct electrical wiring.
Selecting the type of electrical installation
The first thing to start with is to decide on the method of mounting the line. Today, open and hidden type wiring is used. it is a fastening of all constituent elements over finished walls (routes are laid in special cable channels).
The advantage is:
- the damaged area can be repaired without any problems (no need to cut the wallpaper, destroy the plastered walls, etc.);
- simpler installation and preparatory work (not needed in the house);
- convenient to add new branching points.
The disadvantages of this installation method are one - very often it does not fit into the overall interior of the rooms, since the cable channels do not have a very attractive appearance.
In places for installing junction boxes, switches and sockets, we make round recesses with a puncher with a crown (we select the depth and diameter of the strobe in accordance with the dimensions of the products). Depending on the type of walls, we choose a diamond or pobedit crown (for concrete) or a crown for wood and drywall.
You can see how to make strobes for electrical wiring in the house in the video below:
Step 2 - Attaching Junction Boxes
Boxes and socket boxes are installed in wells (the so-called round strobes). For their installation, it is recommended to use screws with dowels or a layer of asbestos (about 2 mm). After securely fixing the boxes, we move on.
You can clearly see the process of installing the socket box in the following video:
Step 3 - Installing the cable
The gate is cleaned from the remnants of dust, stones and other foreign objects, primed or spilled with water, after which it is necessary to lay the cable in it. For fixing electrical wiring, it is recommended to use plaster or alabaster. Those who do not want to deal with the solution can fix the wire with dowel clamps.
The tacking step is about 40 cm. We talked about the rest in the corresponding article, which we strongly recommend reading!
That's the whole instruction for installing electrical wiring in a private house from scratch. We also recommend that you watch visual video tutorials that describe this event in more detail:
Obtaining permission to connect to the local power grid
First you need to pass acceptance tests (technical inspection of the facility where the electrical installation was carried out). If the result turns out to be positive, you will be issued a “Connection Permission Certificate”, on the basis of which the Electricity Owner must connect your residential facility.
The rules for connecting to the network are described in RF PP 861 of December 27, 2004 and its numerous editions (updated until 2015).
The power supply company is obliged to connect to the power grid for objects with a capacity of up to 15 kW, regardless of whether it has such an opportunity. Connection with a dedicated power of up to 15 kW, and a line length of not more than 500 meters costs 550 rubles. For this money you will receive. After assembling the input-distribution board, you need to contact the RES and call the inspector to seal it, then the electricians must connect your "box" to electricity - the overhead power line support.
This question is clearly discussed in the video:
So we examined how the wiring in the house should be done with our own hands. We hope provided step-by-step instruction was clear and useful, and the video tutorials helped to better understand the entire wiring process!
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