Gardeners love chrysanthemums because they continue to bloom when the rest of the flora is already at rest. This plant can be easily propagated using several methods: seeds, bush division and cuttings. Our today's material will be devoted to the last mentioned method.
Reproduction features
So, what is attractive cuttings of garden chrysanthemums? The advantage of this breeding option is to get a seedling even from a rare spherical bouquet. Unlike seed sowing, the culture will be able to retain absolutely all varietal characteristics.
Features of rooting cuttings of garden chrysanthemum:
- the rooting of a small-flowered representative is faster than a large-flowered one;
- rooting is much worse in chrysanthemums that have a thick and fleshy stem;
- cutting time has a direct impact on the size of the crop, so previously planted planting material is a guarantee of a high chrysanthemum.
Timing of cuttings
Chrysanthemum can be cuttings at different times of the year. The term is directly dependent on the plant variety, therefore, when cutting, it is worth considering whether this plant is single-stemmed, multi-stemmed, small-flowered or large-flowered.
This method of reproduction has 2 ways of implementation.
- Harvesting in the autumn of a uterine shrub, from which shoots can be obtained in the spring. Often, a large-flowered variety is able to produce from 8 to 16 cuttings, and a small-flowered variety - from 20 to 30. To prepare a mother culture, it is necessary to cut off the aerial part of the plant before frost sets in. The cut should be at a height of 5 centimeters from the soil. Chrysanthemum is dug up and placed in an appropriate container. The root system should be covered with substrate or sand and sent to a cool place, such as a cellar.
- Repeated pruning of stems in the summer.
Spring cuttings are carried out in accordance with the timing of the ripening of flowers, namely from March to May. Early varieties should be planted as early as possible. The cuttings are separated from the mother culture and placed in the ground throughout the summer period. In autumn, the shrubs are dug up before the onset of frost.
To carry out spring cuttings, it is worth choosing a strong shoot and freeing its lower half from foliage. The leaves that remain should be made shorter by a third, preventing the plant from rotting. In order for the chrysanthemum to please with beauty and abundant flowering, it is worth choosing a plant with a healthy root system. A bush that is dug out in the fall must be prepared for the winter and stored at a temperature not exceeding 4 degrees Celsius, otherwise unwanted shoots will appear.
The duration of rooting in culture is as follows:
- landing January-March - from 20 to 25 days;
- landing April-May - from 16 to 17 days.
What should be the stem?
For the propagation procedure, it is necessary to break out the stem cuttings of the required size with developed leaves in the amount of 4 pieces. You should not take a weak, lignified branch, with internodes located nearby. It is best to choose a cutting whose base is neither hard nor overly soft.
The size of the handle is directly affected by the state of the chrysanthemum:
- at early stages of reproduction, a soft, non-lignified cutting should be 7 centimeters long; if the process is taken shorter, then decay processes may develop;
- with a late breeding period, 5-centimeter cuttings are chosen.
The necessary conditions
In order for the rooting of chrysanthemum cuttings at home to be successful, you will need to choose the right container. In this case, it is worth giving preference to shallow wide pots. This capacity contributes to the normal development of the root system, and also prevents its decay. After transplanting a flower into a large pot, you can observe its active growth.
A box with plantings should be stored at a temperature of 15 to 18 degrees Celsius. There should be good lighting in the room, as a lack of light can lead to the death of planting material. If necessary, artificial light sources can be used.
In order for future flowers to take root well, they need high humidity. To increase it, the box with the cuttings should be covered with a film. The coating is removed after the appearance of young roots on the culture.
Training
If necessary, cut off the broken shoot, it is recommended to disinfect the equipment before planting. Such an event prevents the spread of infections. If the timing of reproduction is early, then the cut should be sprinkled with talc, which is mixed with growth stimulants. At the same time, 1 g of talc falls on 3–6 mg of the substance. With late planting dates, the above procedures are not required.
For planting a cutting, it is worth preparing soil with good air and water permeability. The best option is to use peat mixed with sand, perlite, vermiculite with sand, as well as the following mixtures:
- in equal proportions sod land, sand, peat;
- turf, leaf ground, sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1;
- a mixture of carefully rotted sandy compost soil and peat, while maintaining a ratio of 1: 3.
For propagation by cuttings and planting, the gardener should level a 10-centimeter layer of substrate, compact it and fill it with 2 centimeters of washed sand. Before planting and after it, the soil is well moistened.
Step-by-step instruction
To root chrysanthemum cuttings, they should be planted to a depth of no more than 15 millimeters. Thus, the resulting root system will be in a nourished layer. During planting, you need to use a peg, thanks to which the base will not be injured. Do not forget about maintaining the distance between the cuttings:
- landing from January to March - 5 by 5 centimeters;
- landing from April to May - 4 by 4 centimeters.
In order for the planting material to take root well, it is necessary to maintain an optimal and constant microclimate in the room with a temperature of 18 to 20 degrees Celsius. It is best to build a dome of plastic film over the landing. Such a greenhouse will be able to provide the plants with the necessary humidity.
While keeping young chrysanthemums under film cover, they do not need abundant irrigation. Gardeners who decide to grow a flower should make sure that the soil is moist, but not wet. Overwatering can cause the development of a fungal disease. After the rooting of the cuttings, their intensive growth is observed, so that the plants do not interfere with each other, they dive. In this case, the distance between the chrysanthemums should be at least 8 centimeters. Excess vegetation should be planted separately.
Also, young chrysanthemums need watering and fertilizer every 7 days. Do not forget that after rooting you need to remove the film. It is worth covering the culture at night and in case of excessive heat. A month after planting, flowers can be fed with fertilizers with a nitrogen base in the amount of 1 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.
According to the reviews of gardeners, it is not difficult to grow a chrysanthemum and propagate it by cuttings. At the same time, the use of growth stimulants is not necessary, since the root system of the plant is able to grow on its own. With the competent organization of a diverse flower bed of chrysanthemums, you can become the owner of a beautiful and bright island. Propagation of this flower with the help of cuttings is not a difficult process, everyone will cope with this task. And planting chrysanthemums with different flowering periods is an opportunity to plant a blooming flower bed that will delight with its originality before the onset of frost.
For information on how to carry out cuttings, see the following video.
Flower growers are very fond of flowers such as chrysanthemums, this is due to the beauty of the inflorescences, with a variety of shades and unpretentiousness of plants.
It is not difficult to propagate chrysanthemums, the process will not require much effort and expense from you, but some points should still be taken into account. To get an excellent result, you need to have some rules. That's about them and will be discussed in this article.
These flowers can be propagated throughout the growing season, from spring to autumn. What are the features of the autumn process of reproduction of chrysanthemums, how to create maximum comfort for them and at the same time do without losses?
A lot depends on the soil composition, so that the chrysanthemum cuttings feel “at home”, it is necessary to prepare a special mixture based on purchased peat, forest soil, sand or perlite. All these components will help the plant "breathe" freely and be enriched with moisture.
The acidity of the earth should be neutral, only under this condition can we talk about the normal reproduction and growth of the plant. If necessary, deoxidize the soil by adding ash, chalk or dolomite flour to it.
Provided that the soil will have all the necessary qualities, even a gardener without experience will be able to grow gorgeous chrysanthemum bushes in one season.
cuttings in spring
To obtain strong cuttings, a healthy mother plant must be used, free of disease signs and hints of pests. Procurement of planting material is carried out in the autumn. This is done as follows:
- the ground part of the plant is cut off at the root;
- the root system is dug out completely along with a clod of earth;
- the roots must be placed in a volumetric container and the voids must be filled with a sand mixture;
- all this “construction” should be moistened and put in a cool place, the cellar or basement room will be an ideal place;
- provided that you do not have such a room, you can store a vessel with roots in any of the rooms, the main thing is that the air temperature does not rise in it more than + 7 degrees;
- if the room is too warm, the plant will begin to germinate, shoot and bud.
Features of winter storage
The soil in the pot should not be allowed to dry out, therefore moderate watering is the main condition for winter storage, but overflow is fraught with disastrous consequences.
The flower can rot and die, so watering should be done only after the soil has completely dried. If the room where the chrysanthemum is stored is quite humid, you do not need to water the plant.
Terms and procedure for harvesting cuttings
In March, you can start cutting chrysanthemums. Approximately 14 days before the transplant process, the mother liquor should be transferred to a warm room, this will stimulate the formation of young shoots. During this very period, abundant watering is required, so the flower can form massive stems.
After the shoots grow by 10 cm and leaves grow on each of them, you can start cuttings. In this case, the lower leaves are removed, and those that are located on top should be left untouched.
Planting cuttings
A certain amount of settled water is poured into the soil prepared in advance, then holes are made, the distance between which should correspond to 6 cm. Each cutting is planted to a depth of two centimeters, if it is more, they may rot.
Flower growers often plant cuttings in separate cups, in some cases several pieces at once in one pot. The latter method makes it possible to obtain a more lush bush.
For better rooting of chrysanthemums at home, you should create a microclimate using glass or plastic wrap. So you can observe the process taking place in the containers and track all negative processes.
If you propagate chrysanthemum in greenhouse conditions, you do not need to cover the cuttings.
How to care for cuttings
For successful rooting, many gardeners use such a tool as Kornevin. It is a root formation stimulant, it is used before planting. However, it is possible to achieve good survival without it, it is enough to provide the cuttings with certain conditions:
- The temperature is not lower than +17 and not higher than +19 degrees.
- Water the plants every day with a spray bottle.
Covering material should be removed only after you see new leaves, this is a sign that the roots have formed and the plant has begun to grow. A couple of weeks after that, you can feed the seedlings with a mineral complex according to the instructions. Loosening and spraying will help to quickly develop the roots and the ground part of the flower.
Cuttings in the summer
This method is the easiest, just cut off a few healthy shoots and place them in moist soil. After a certain period, fresh foliage will appear on the cuttings - evidence of successful root formation.
But here you should also follow the rules of planting: the use of Kornevin and the constant moistening of the soil. With summer cuttings, rooting will occur after 20 days from the date of planting.
cuttings in autumn
For the sale of young animals, this method is the most productive. For this method, independent flowering bushes obtained in the spring are used.
In general, chrysanthemums have a very high survival rate, so you can reproduce it, almost all year round.
The bush should be dug up before the onset of cold weather and placed in a heated greenhouse. Already after 14 days you will see a lot of sprouts on the plant. The division of the bush should be done after watering. The shoots, together with part of the root system, are distributed in separate containers in fertile soil.
What is needed for autumn breeding:
- After planting, a solution of ammonium nitrate should be added at the rate of 10 g per bucket of water.
- Spraying, loosening and watering the flowers is necessary constantly.
- The mulch will help retain moisture.
- Every two weeks it is necessary to fertilize the plants with a special complex for beautifully flowering plants.
After four pairs of leaves appear on young plants, they are pinched. This will allow the plant to branch more densely, and the crown will become beautiful and dense. The second "haircut" procedure should be carried out after two weeks.
In the spring, when the soil warms up well, you can start planting ready-made chrysanthemum bushes in a permanent place.
Conclusion
- Chrysanthemum is a plant that can be propagated in spring, summer and autumn.
- Chrysanthemums are unpretentious and give roots very well with an abundance of moisture and heat.
- The flower can be propagated by roots, cuttings and seeds.
In this article, you will learn about the propagation of chrysanthemum cuttings. And about fungal diseases. Or rather, what drugs should be used in certain cases.
The easiest and fastest ways to propagate perennial chrysanthemums are cuttings and dividing the bush. In this case, all the main features and properties of the plant are preserved.
Spring cuttings
I take a uterine bush, which I dug out in the fall and left to winter in the basement. I cut young branches from it with a sharp knife. I plant cuttings in boxes or low pots with a fertile substrate. 
In an apartment, seedling cassettes or coconut tablets are suitable for this purpose. Enriched with a solution of potassium humate (improves root formation). I breed professionally, so I do everything "dirty" and quickly. I prepare the soil mixture from garden soil, humus and sand (2: 1: 0.5). The thickness of its layer in the container should be at least 5 cm.
I pour calcined sand on top of it with a layer of 2-2.5 cm. You can also use a mixture of perlite and coarse sand in a ratio of 1: 1. The optimum temperature for rooting cuttings is + 18-20 degrees.
in the greenhouse
In my greenhouse in the spring, it is lower, but the branches also take root well. To speed up the process, sometimes I additionally cover the planting with a spanbond. I spray cuttings regularly.
On average, I get young people per month.
To support their development, I feed them with any nitrogen-containing fertilizer. And in May I already plant in open ground.
By the way.
Cuttings can be taken at any time of the year
Nurseries often do this in August. Cutting branches from So they are sold or transplanted into pots in the fall.
Summer cuttings provide earlier flowering of chrysanthemums in the next season. In the spring, they will already act as mini-queen.
According to the rules
But still, according to the generally accepted rule, large-flowered chrysanthemums are cut from January to April. And small-flowered - from February to the end of May.
I share, but at the same time I rejuvenate.
It happens that a chrysanthemum blooms magnificently for two or three years. And then after the winter it suddenly disappears. The reason is that the plant has not been divided for a long time.
Chrysanthemums grow due to horizontal offspring, and they are located superficially. For the winter, I mulch the root system with humus or peat. Or I'm just messing around.
spring
In the spring, when the sprouts reach a height of 5-7 cm, I dig up a bush, shake off the ground and break out young shoots with rhizome fragments. I sprinkle with crushed coal and plant one or two at a distance of 15 to 20 cm in a new place.
By the beginning of flowering, a full-fledged bush is formed from each division. It can only be divided
how much warmer it gets. To make chrysanthemums bloom better, I rejuvenate them, and at the same time propagate them, dividing them every three years. Delenki the first time I water well. 
Fungal diseases of chrysanthemum
For many flower growers, fungal diseases of chrysanthemums and their treatment are a real tragedy. This is because some drugs are already outdated. And they don't get the job done.
As an addition, biological methods of protection are given.
Remember. Chrysanthemums are drought tolerant. They are watered only in spring and early summer for the sake of enhancing growth and budding. With an excess of moisture, plants attack fungi. Water the flowers only at the root, avoid dense plantings and poorly ventilated areas.
Fungal diseases and chem. a drug
powdery mildew
signs 
Leaves, especially young ones, stems and buds are covered with whitish spots. Gradually, they grow, covering the entire plant. The plates curl and dry out, growth stops.
It usually appears in the autumn, when there is insufficient air circulation and in a humid climate. I used to notice with heavy dews, even in hot weather.
Chem. a drug
Topaz fungicide is used for treatment. But in some places, mushroom resistance has developed to it. I advise you to choose from: "Skor", "Raek", "Dividend", "Chistosvet", "Zoltan KE". "Kvadris" - a new class of drugs that can be used for prevention and treatment. It makes sense to carry out up to three treatments in 7-14 days and better with drugs with different composition.
Gray rot
signs
Brown wet spots of a blurry type appear on parts of plants. Soon they are covered with a gray fluffy coating and rot. In wet weather, the disease develops very quickly. First of all, specimens overfed with nitrogen are affected. Especially on acidic and wet soils.
Chem. a drug
Some new systemic fungicides help: Switch, Sistan, Thanos. In this case, it is necessary to transplant the plants to a well-ventilated place.
white rust
signs 
The disease begins with round yellow spots on the leaves with a diameter of not more than 5 mm. On the reverse side of the plate, they are accompanied by a whitish coating - spores that are carried around the site by wind and rain. Petals are also affected, which leads to a loss of decorativeness.
Chem. a drug
The most effective fungicides of the new generation are Miklobutanil, Sistan, Rally, RN-3866, Difenoconazole. The pathogen quickly develops immunity to chemicals.
Septoria (white spot)
signs
The leaves dry, starting from the bottom. White spots first appear on them, surrounded by a dark border, as they increase in the middle, black dots of pycnidia of the fungus form. The shoots turn brown and bend.
Chem. a drug
Remove the affected and fallen leaves, then treat the plant with a systemic fungicide (Rakurs, Kolosal Pro, Abacus Ultra, Falcon). Remove wilted vegetation on the site in time, because. Septoria also affects other cultivated plants, and even wild cereals.
All drugs should be used according to the instructions.
Biosecurity common to all
Choose disease-resistant varieties.
Enhance the natural immunity of plants. Spray with HB-101 solution (according to instructions).
Avoid single landings. Make mixed, preferably with aromatic herbs.
Maintain a variety of microorganisms in the soil. Spill the earth with water with the addition of EM preparations (Vostok, Baikal, Stimiks, Radiance). Strains begin to work at +15 degrees.
Many gardeners prefer garden chrysanthemums. These are colorful flowers that can decorate any plot or flower bed until late autumn. They give bright colors to gardens during their flowering, which begins in July. Chrysanthemums are white, yellow, pink in color, they have a bitter aroma.
Reproduction of chrysanthemums is carried out by growing from seed, cuttings, or by dividing the bushes. In their reproduction, a vegetative method is used to preserve all the qualities of the plant, expressed by the size, terryness, color and shape of the bushes. From the seed, these flowers are propagated in breeding, to breed new species.
The division of the bush is a simple method in the reproduction of perennial chrysanthemums. Such a breeding process is carried out in the first half of June or at the end of August until the beginning of autumn (during September). To divide the bush, the strongest, healthiest and most beautiful flowers with well-developed inflorescences are selected. Preference should be given to bushes that pests have not reached.
Reproduction of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush
The number of parts into which the bush is divided is determined by the characteristics of the variety, as well as the number of years of mother plants. A three-year bush is able to give 5 - 6 cuttings. To get "delenki", the mother bushes are dug up and divided into parts that have a root system with shoots. They are planted in open ground conditions, placed in wells with fertilizer, and well watered.
If reproduction occurs in the autumn, then young bushes will need to be covered for wintering with oak branches, needles or branches of thorny bushes without foliage.
With the help of cuttings
The first cutting method
The bush is pruned low in the fall, then it is dug up, stored in a room where it is dark and cool. The excavated bush is sprinkled with sand. So you can save it until the end of winter until the month of February, not forgetting about the regularity of watering.
At the end of winter (February), the plant is moved to another room with an average temperature of at least 15 degrees Celsius and planted in fertile soil. The planted bush is watered and after a week it is fed. For this purpose, ammonium nitrate is suitable. Experts recommend highlighting plants so that the rays of light fall on them from above. After the start of active growth, you can do cuttings.
Reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings
The cuttings are cut with a sharp knife, leaving about 10 centimeters in length and three to four knots. The nodes are the places where the leaves are attached to the stem. On the part that remains, you need to save about 2 - 3 leaves, so that after a few weeks shoots begin to appear. They will be used in cuttings.
Cut cuttings are carefully examined, the strongest, which have elastic bases, are left for reproduction.
Before planting in the soil on the cuttings, the lower leaves are cut off, the upper ones must be shortened by a third from the leaf plate.
The cuttings are planted at a temperature of 18 - 20 degrees Celsius, on the eve they are placed in containers filled with soil mixture. The mixture is prepared by combining sand, garden soil with humus (proportion 2:1:1). On top of the soil is poured with a three-centimeter layer of river sand.
The container with the cuttings should be covered with a film so that the distance from the film to the top of the bush is at least 30 centimeters. Awaiting rooting. Watering is done carefully, by spraying the soil cover in clear weather 2-3 times a day.
After 2 - 3 weeks, when the plants are rooted, the film can be removed from them. After seven days, the seedlings must be transplanted into containers with a soil mixture obtained by combining turf, humus and sand (2: 2: 1).
When 5-6 leaves grow on the cuttings, pinching is carried out to accelerate growth with the development of bushes.
Cuttings need to be fed twice a month, for this you need to use a solution of nitrate. In sunny weather, the plant needs to be shaded.
Before planting a bush of chrysanthemums in open soil, they need to be hardened off (10 to 12 days before transplanting). In the process of hardening, the plant is taken out to an open area, covered with a film at night. After the frost has passed, the seedlings are planted in a prepared place.
Second way
This method is used in open ground conditions (May - June). The chrysanthemums that you have selected are well covered with spruce branches in the autumn, with preliminary hilling in humus mixed with earth and sand. In the spring, the warming cover is removed, the humus is leveled. Starting from April, when the plant reaches 13 - 15 centimeters in height, it is cut into cuttings of 6 - 7 centimeters in length.
The cuttings are planted on a raised bed in fertile garden soil, river sand is poured on top.
Then all this is covered with a film stretched over an arcuate frame. When warm, the film must be removed. If the growing conditions are observed, then by the end of May - the beginning of June, the cuttings can be transplanted into flower beds.
With the help of seeds
This method is applicable for growing perennial chrysanthemums, as well as annual flowers. Most often, it is used to propagate Korean chrysanthemums.
Reproduction of annual chrysanthemums by seeds
If we talk about reproduction by seeds of annuals, then the seed is sown directly in the beds on the open ground. You can do this at the end of spring. The best time is the month of May. Holes are made in the soil, the distance between them should be at least 20 cm. Then the holes are watered using warm water. After that, two seeds are planted in each hole and lightly sprinkled with soil. Over the holes, you can stretch the garden film to create a greenhouse effect, which will give better heating and retain moisture. When the first shoots appear, the film is removed, and the soil is very carefully loosened. Weeds are being removed.
After seven days, you can "feed" the plants using a diluted liquid fertilizer like "Rainbow" or "Ideal" for this purpose. After the sprouts reach a height of ten centimeters and several leaves appear on them, it is necessary to thin out. In each hole, one of the strongest and most developed plants should remain. The rest can be transplanted to another bed. The disadvantage of this method is late flowering. Chrysanthemums will please them only in August. For earlier results, you should resort to growing seedlings.
Reproduction of perennial chrysanthemums by seeds
Perennial chrysanthemums are recommended to be propagated by seeds through seedlings. It must be grown in a heated room. With this method of reproduction, planting of seed should be carried out in the last days of February or the first of March.
Seeds are planted in an earthen mixture, which is filled with small boxes. To prepare the mixture, greenhouse soil, peat and humus are taken in equal parts. The mixture is preliminarily sieved and calcined (steamed) at a temperature of at least one hundred and ten degrees Celsius. You can use ready-made soil purchased from one of the many flower shops. At the bottom of the box, a drainage layer of expanded clay or gravel is poured. Above it is moist soil. Seeds are scattered on the surface of the soil and lightly pressed against it with the palms. Spraying is carried out with warm water poured into a spray bottle. The boxes are covered with foil. They are left warm (the room should be at least 25 degrees Celsius). Drawers are opened regularly for ventilation and irrigation. Drying out of the soil is unacceptable!
After two weeks, shoots will appear. They should be moved to a well-lit place and begin to accustom to the environment, gradually increasing the length of time the seedlings stay without a film. After the appearance of several leaves on the plants, they must be transplanted into separate boxes or cups. When transplanting, try not to damage the roots. Weakened and underdeveloped plants are discarded. The strongest ones sit at the right depth in the same soil that was used for sowing. The transplant should be completed by spraying the seedlings with a preparation like Zircon or Epin-Extra in order for the plants to take root better.
The next one and a half months, necessary for the chrysanthemum sprouts to reach a height of twenty centimeters, are regularly watered, fed with fertilizers twice a month, illuminated if necessary. When the air on the street reaches a constant temperature equal to +16 degrees Celsius and above, the plants are equipped in a greenhouse to get better lighting and harden them.
At the end of May, young chrysanthemums can be transplanted to a permanent place. The main thing is to make sure that there will be no return of frost. The planting site should be sunny and the soil fertile. These flowers do not tolerate stagnant water. This should be taken into account when choosing a place for their landing.
With the help of layers
This breeding method is good for winter-hardy varieties or home chrysanthemum. Reproduction by layering is carried out by dropping the stem.
It is best to perform the procedure in the autumn. A groove is dug next to the bush, corresponding in terms of width and depth to the size of the bush itself. The stem is laid on the bottom of the groove and pinned with a staple. Sprinkle 20 centimeters of loose soil on top. In this form, it is left for the winter.
In the spring it will be possible to see how young shoots have appeared, having their own root system. After the frost retreats, the earth is raked and the stem is divided into parts so that each has strong and developed roots. After that, each part cut off from the stem - the shoot - can be planted where it will grow constantly.
With the help of cuttings from a bouquet
If you want the presented bouquet of chrysanthemums to find a second life, you can plant your favorite flowers. This method of reproduction is similar to cuttings. Use cuttings from a bouquet to propagate chrysanthemums.
Choose your favorite plants from the bouquet. Pinch off all the leaves from them, remove the flowers. Don't forget to pinch the top. Leave the resulting cuttings in a container of water. Over time, they will take root.
Decide on a planting site. It should be sunny and protected from winds and drafts. If you plan to grow in a container, then choose a wide diameter (at least 30 cm.). Holes must be made in the bottom area to ensure the drainage of excess moisture. As a soil, a purchased slightly acidic mixture is suitable. Cover the bottom with a drainage layer of expanded clay. On the eve of planting the cuttings from the bouquet, moisten the soil abundantly and enrich it by adding mineral fertilizer.
Plant plants, keeping a distance of 35 to 50 centimeters between the cuttings. If planting in open ground conditions, do not forget to cover the seedlings with a film that will protect them from temperature extremes.
Chrysanthemums will delight you with their luxurious flowering, responding to your attention and care for them!
Flower growers often experiment with new specimens, changing annuals and planting new species. But chrysanthemums grow in almost every garden. A wide range of color variations and species of these chic plants will decorate any flower bed or window sill.
The favorite of summer residents - chrysanthemum - reproduces quite easily. Cutting is a simple process that is also subject to beginners. Of course, there is a need for certain knowledge on how to carry out this action in spring, summer or autumn.
The autumn breeding process is convenient for people involved in the cultivation of chrysanthemums for commercial purposes - for sale. Spring is more suitable for gardeners, and summer for lazy people.
Therefore, this article will consider all the information about cuttings of chrysanthemums, not only in autumn, spring or summer, as well as the reproduction of flowers from a bouquet.
Features of autumn cuttings of chrysanthemums
Late cuttings of chrysanthemums - in the fall - implies the presence of flowering seedlings in the spring. If you carry out the procedure in November, then in late March - early April, the plants will already bloom. This period is far from suitable for all species, and the time is far from ideal. But the reproduction of chrysanthemums in the fall is quite successful. If all recommendations are followed, the survival rate of flowers will be 100%.
The mother liquor is a source bush from which cuttings will be harvested. He needs additional preparation before cuttings. The process consists in cutting off almost the entire ground share from the bush before the onset of the first frost. After such a cardinal haircut, let him stay in the soil for a couple more weeks. Next, the mother liquor is dug up and moved to a container corresponding to its size. The rhizome is covered with earth. Instead of soil, clean sand can be used. Next, the chrysanthemum hides in a cellar or other cool dark room. The main thing is that the temperature does not exceed +7 ° C. If it is warmer, the shoots of chrysanthemums will hatch ahead of time.
Watering is very important. During the wintering of the mother liquor, its roots need a moist environment. If the cellar is damp, then watering is not required. It is only necessary to periodically check whether the earth is dry, otherwise the plant will most likely die. It is also not worth excessively moistening - the rhizome will begin to rot.
If, after digging up the chrysanthemums, they are transferred to the greenhouse, the first shoots will appear very soon. Cuttings in the fall should be carried out when the height of the "beginners" reaches at least 8 cm. The shoots should be picked off from the root, and not cut off. It is in this process that the main feature lies, leading to the 100th survival rate of chrysanthemums. One mother bush can provide 20-25 cuttings.
spring breeding
The cutting procedure can take place in the spring. It is not much different from autumn. A bush that has just wintered in the cellar is taken out to heat and shoots up to 8 cm long are expected to form. Usually, shoots appear after a week of the mother liquor being warm.
Unlike the autumn method, it is better to cut off the cuttings during spring cuttings. You should choose those after which there will still be a couple of leaves. In this case, new shoots will appear faster on the resulting stump. They will also come down to breed.
Too small processes are weak and may not take root, so you do not need to touch them. Prepared cuttings are cut a little - a pair of the lowest leaves is removed. There is no point in cutting off the top.
Planting cuttings
The soil prepared for sprouts should be well watered. If the stalk is large, there should be at least 5 cm in radius between the seedlings. Plants are deepened by 1.5-2.5 cm. It is not necessary to plant everything in one container; local settlement in cups is also acceptable. One way or another, when the bushes form, they will have to be relocated. Three cuttings planted in one pot will become a bush.
If the first days of the life of the cutting in the new soil are carried out at room conditions, it must be covered with a film. It is logical to assume that greenhouse cultivation excludes the presence of additional shelter with polyethylene.
Summer and cuttings of chrysanthemums
The easiest way to propagate these flowers. Sometimes it’s enough just to stick the cutting into moist soil and that’s it. There is a more complex but reliable process. Everyone knows that the stiff part of the plant is more difficult to take root than the green, softer part. Therefore, for reproduction, upper sprouts with a length of no more than 15 cm are used.
You need to plant flowers in the shade or make it specially for them. Regular spraying of sprouts with water will give them strength, but do not forget to water them. In a couple of weeks, the chrysanthemums will come to life and begin to grow.
