Black hyacinth. Hyacinth care at home, planting and care after flowering, propagation of hyacinths in a pot

Family Asparagus. The name “hyacinth” is translated from Greek as “flower of rain.” This is a versatile plant that can be grown at home and in the garden. Hyacinth bulbs consist of fleshy lower leaves with a thick flowering stem 30 cm tall. After flowering, the stem dries out along with the leaves, and a bud forms on the stem inside the bulb, which then turns into a new bulb.

Hyacinths bloom in early spring and delight the eye with bright, unusually beautiful and very fragrant flowers. Modern varieties of hyacinths amaze the imagination with an abundance of colors: white, pink, red, light yellow and orange, blue and purple, burgundy and even black. Beautiful fragrant flowers of various bright colors are widely used to decorate gardens, personal plots, and park areas. Hyacinths are equally good both in a monobed and in a flower arrangement.

Types and varieties of hyacinths

Currently, there are three types of hyacinths:

  • oriental hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis)
  • Litvinov's hyacinth (Hyacinthus litwinowii)
  • Transcaspian hyacinth (Hyacinthus transcaspicus)

Each species has a wide variety of varieties, which in turn are divided into different categories - according to flowering times - early, middle and late, according to appearance- terry and smooth, by colors and shades, by winter hardiness, etc.

A magnificent spring flower bed of perennials - hyancinths combined with tulips

The most beautiful variety of hyacinth is the Oriental Hyacinth.

The most popular and beautiful varieties of Eastern hyacinth are:

White hyacinths

  • White Pearl

The flowers are double, bell-shaped, numerous (up to 35 pieces), in a dense inflorescence. The flower size is 3.5-4 cm in diameter. The flowers have a strong and persistent sweet aroma. The inflorescence is a dense raceme, spherical-cylindrical in shape, 10-15 cm high. Prefers sunny places or partial shade, with protection from winds. The beginning of flowering is the beginning - mid-spring. The flowering period is up to three weeks.

  • Louvre (Louvre)

Beautiful blue flowers with a delightful aroma. Suitable for open ground, early forcing indoors, and also for cutting. The flowering period is 12-15 days. Prefers moderate moisture and sunlight.

  • Carnegie

A charming variety. This great choice to decorate the garden or to create a flower arrangement. Very resistant to frost - this variety can withstand temperatures down to -34.4 °C. Prefers sunny or partial shade, with protection from winds. Flowering time is mid-spring.

Light yellow hyacinths

  • Yellow Queen

Magnificent yellow-lemon fragrant flowers, suitable both for monobeds and for various combinations with other types of flowers. Plant height: up to 30 cm, flowers are classic, large, 3.5-4 cm in diameter. Propagates well, gives excellent forcing. Flowering time - March-April, flowering period - up to 3 weeks.

  • City of Haarlem

Very bright and attractive large-flowered variety. This is the undisputed leader among plants used for forcing and decorating flower beds in the spring. The flowering period occurs in March-April, forming lush, rich yellow inflorescences 10-12 cm long, 4 cm in diameter and 25-30 cm in height. Flowering duration is 2-3 weeks. Prefers a sunny or slightly shaded location.

Light orange hyacinths

  • Gipsy Queen (Gypsy Queen)

The rare and unusually beautiful delicate light peach color of this flower immediately attracts everyone's attention. This allows you to make this variety the brightest accent of your spring garden. Gipsy Queen is ideal for winter and spring forcing, for decorating flower beds and growing in pots. The flowers of this variety are hard, as if covered with wax, due to which flowering lasts longer than other varieties. Flowering duration is 10-20 days. The plant is light-loving.

Blue and purple hyacinths

  • Crystal Palace

Crystal Palace is a double hyacinth that is one of the first to bloom in spring. The flowering period occurs in March-April. The inflorescence is lush, cylindrical, with 30-35 large flowers, 3.5-4 cm in diameter, of a rich violet-blue color. In the center along the perianth petals there is a darker stripe, which is why the hyacinth inflorescence of this variety appears striped. Since the plant has divine beauty, this variety is popular all over the world and is often included in various competitions and exhibitions. Of course, you can decorate not only a flower bed with Crystal Palace hyacinth, but also a window sill; this plant is perfect for pot growing, forcing and cutting. Prefers a sunny or slightly shaded place, protected from strong winds.

  • Blue Giant

Blue Giant hyacinth flowers have a delicate and pleasant aroma that will fill your garden or room with it if you make a bouquet from them. You can choose any site for planting hyacinth bulbs, because they can grow both in brightly lit areas and in the shade. Also make sure that the bulbs are not placed in too wet soil, as they may rot.

  • Blue Jacket

This variety blooms from March to April, forming lush flower with a large cylindrical inflorescence up to 30 cm high, lilac-blue in color, along the edge of the perianth there are lighter tones, which gives the inflorescence a striped appearance, flower diameter is 4 cm, the inflorescence can consist of 30-40 flowers. The aroma of Blue Jacket hyacinth is pleasant and strong. Flowering duration is 10-15 days. The plant is light-loving, winter hardiness is low.

  • Peter Stuyvesant

Peter stuyvesant is a bright, early-blooming variety with double flowers. It was released recently - in 2001. Named after the famous Dutch governor of the colony of New York in the 1600s. A real aristocrat! This is the bluest hyacinth. The peduncle reaches a height of about 25 cm. The flowers are double, bell-shaped, numerous (35-40 pieces), bright blue in color with a purple tint. The flower size is 3-4 cm in diameter and the same or a little more in length. The flowers have a very strong and persistent aroma. The inflorescence is a dense raceme, spherical-cylindrical in shape and 12-15 cm high. The flowering period is long - up to three weeks. This hyacinth will add a noble touch to your garden. Ideal for growing in containers and for forcing. Prefers sunny places or partial shade. Should be protected from wind and drafts. Flowering time is March-April.

Pink and red hyacinths

  • China Pink (Tea Rose)

It blooms in April-May, forming a lush large pale pink inflorescence 12-15 cm high. You will not be able to pass by this flower indifferent - it will enchant you with its delightful appearance and delicate aroma. China Pink is perfect for forcing, even for beginners, for decorating flower beds in the spring; it looks great both in pots and in a spring flower bed. Flowering duration is 10-15 days. Prefers a sunny or slightly shaded location, protected from strong winds.

  • Broadway
  • Anna Marie (Anna Maria)
  • Fondant (Fudge)
  • Splendid Cornelia (Hyacinthus Splendid Cornelia)
  • Jan Bos (Jan Bos) is a wonderful primrose with lush inflorescences consisting of many bright flowers. Jan Bos hyacinths bloom in early spring in March with bright and very fragrant flowers, forming a dense, lush inflorescence 12 cm high, covered with blooming flowers. The brush contains 18-26 dark crimson flowers with a diameter of 2.5-3 cm. Plant height is 20-25 cm. Flowering duration is 2-3 weeks. Perfect for forcing, decorating spring flower beds, and for cutting. Prefers a sunny or slightly shaded location, protected from strong winds.
  • Burgundy Hyacinth – Woodstock

Belongs to the class of large-flowered plants. The plant is ideal for planting along alleys, in sunny or slightly shaded places. Flowering occurs in March-April. Woodctock has an unforgettable purple-lilac color and a huge inflorescence, the height of which is 25cm! Flowering duration is 15-20 days.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus) is a beautiful bulbous plant from the Asparagaceae family that blooms in spring. From the ancient Greek language the name is translated as “flower of rains”, since hyacinth blooms with the first spring rains. But the Greeks also called it the “flower of sadness” and associated this flower with Apollo and the murder of the young son of the king of Sparta. The Mediterranean and Southeast Asia are considered the homeland of this elegant plant.

The flowering stem of hyacinth can be either short or quite tall. From the rosette of leaves emerges a succulent peduncle with numerous flowers that resemble bells and are collected in a racemose inflorescence. Flowers are presented in the most unexpected shades. The leaves are smooth, fleshy, bright green.

All possible hyacinths can be divided into three main types, which grow mainly in Mediterranean countries. Although botanists continue to debate regarding some varieties, wanting to designate them as independent, according to official data, only the following main types of hyacinths are distinguished:

Oriental hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis)- the most famous and widespread type. It is from this species that the most famous ornamental varieties come. It grows wild in Dalmatia, Greece and Asia Minor . The peduncle of the plant is thin, the flowers are located sparsely. The flowers have different colors and a pleasant aroma.

Hyacinth Litvinova- a perennial herbaceous plant that is cultivated more as an annual. In the wild, it is found in the eastern regions of Iran and Turkmenistan. Among this species there are both tall and short specimens. The flower is extremely beautiful. Blue, purple and greenish colors dominate. The leaves are slightly wider than those of the oriental hyacinth.

Hyacinth Transcaspian– has fairly tall stems, usually two peduncles. The color of the flowers is always light blue. In the wild, it is found in the Kopetdag mountains.

Hyacinth is primarily a garden plant. If you want to grow it at home, you need to recreate it as much as possible natural conditions. This task is not an easy one, but with due diligence and dedication, even a novice florist can cope.

Location and lighting

The best option is south and south-east windows. And the reason is a great love for sunlight. Hyacinth needs daylight - at least 15 hours a day. So, if you place it on the western or northern side, you will have to help the plant with fluorescent lamps.

Even if the plant loves light, direct sunlight can harm it, so on hot summer days it is better to shade the windows or remove the plant from the windowsill during the day. The pot with the plant periodically needs to be turned in different directions.

Temperature

A sharp change in heat and cold, drafts, hot radiators - all this negatively affects the flower. The most suitable temperature for comfortable growth of hyacinth is 20-22 degrees Celsius. But, given that this flower is primarily positioned as a garden flower, being on the street or balcony in the warm season will only benefit it.

Watering and air humidity

The plant needs regular but careful watering. Watering must be done very carefully. If water gets on any part of the plant, this part may begin to rot and as a result the hyacinth will die. A safe option is to water by immersion, and it is better to avoid watering cans. The water should be warm, soft and settled.

Hyacinth does not need spraying. And when it blooms, it is generally contraindicated!

The soil

The optimal soil composition for hyacinth will be a substrate of leaf soil, humus, peat, turf soil and sand. All this must be mixed in equal parts.

Feeding and fertilizers

Hyacinth constantly needs feeding. Any universal fertilizer can be used as a fertilizer. indoor plants. For hyacinths in the garden, you can apply fertilizers both dry and dissolved. But before using liquid fertilizers, the plant must be watered.

In order to get a beautiful flower in the future, hyacinth bulbs should be purchased only in trusted specialized stores. When purchasing bulbs, you need to carefully inspect them and make sure that they are not damaged or diseased. A healthy plant will grow only if the bulb is elastic and smooth, which has a clear neck and shoulders. In most cases, the color of the scales and bulb matches the future inflorescence. The quality of the bulb is not always indicated by its size, however, if its diameter is within 5 cm, this is a good indicator. The best time to buy bulbs is late summer.

If you are going to buy an already mature plant, you need to carefully examine the leaves and stem of the hyacinth. The stem should stand straight, the leaves should also look up, and the peduncle should not be tilted.

How to get flowers at the right time

In order to get a gorgeous peduncle from a bulb, you need to provide the plant with the coolness of real autumn. During this period, the temperature should be within 5-9 degrees Celsius. This can be achieved by sending the plant to the basement or to the bottom shelf in the refrigerator. And to enhance the effect, the bulb in the soil can be wrapped in an opaque bag. Of course, care during this period is kept to a minimum. Surprisingly, these are the conditions that are optimal for the active growth of hyacinth. This usually lasts for 2 months.

When a sprout appears (about 5 cm), the plant needs “spring”, that is, the temperature regime needs to be changed to 13-15 degrees. It must be kept at this temperature until the first buds appear. And with their appearance, hyacinth needs a temperature of 20-22 degrees Celsius. The temperature transition must be smooth, otherwise the flower may die or look sick.

Caring for hyacinth after flowering

After flowering, during the dormant period, the most important thing for hyacinth is the correct temperature regime. Watering should be done moderately. When the hyacinth fades and its leaves fade, it's time to start working on the bulb. The peduncle and leaves should be trimmed and the bulb dug up. This usually happens in June.

The bulb must be carefully examined if there is a need (or for preventive purposes) to be disinfected. And then, changing the temperature from 30 to 17 degrees, store it until autumn planting.

Planting hyacinth in a pot at home

When planting hyacinth, it is allowed to place up to 3 bulbs in one pot (their sizes are taken into account). The bulbs must not come into contact with the walls of the pot and with each other - there should be 2 cm between them. The pots should be of medium size. Drainage must be poured into the bottom of the pot - this can be river sand, which should occupy 2 cm in the pot. The top of the bulb should be raised above the soil. After planting, the substrate must be pressed, watered and sprinkled with sand. Then the pot needs to be placed in a bag, tied, but first make several holes in it and put it in a cool, dark place.

Some people grow hyacinths without soil in water. This is a very realistic method, but a prerequisite is mineral fertilizers dissolved in water. The hyacinth bulb should be on the surface of the container, only lightly touching the water. She should be in a dark, cool room for some time. And with the appearance of roots, the plant should be moved to a bright room.

There are several ways to propagate hyacinths. At home, they are relevant: baby bulbs and scales. In a natural way, you can get a maximum of 5 babies from one bulb during the growing season. To achieve maximum results, use the onion cutting method. The process requires changing temperature conditions and regular fungicide treatment. But if you do everything correctly, then after 3 months small baby bulbs are guaranteed to appear.

Diseases and pests

The main pests of hyacinths: aphids, thrips, spider mites, stem and root-knot nematodes, flower flies. They can destroy the plant - the leaves turn yellow, wither, the buds fall off, the bulbs become rotten and rot. Each individual case has its own methods of control, but most of them involve the use of insecticides.

In addition to pests, hyacinths become enemies various diseases, which can be non-infectious, infectious, viral, bacterial and fungal in nature. The most common and dangerous are bacterial yellow rot and soft bacterial rot. The leaves of a diseased plant turn black and dry out from the top. Watery and brown stripes appear along the veins of the leaves and on the peduncle. Yellow spots first appear on the bulbs, and then the entire bulb rots and begins to emit a stench. Such a plant cannot be saved. The diseased plant and bulb should be burned, and the hole should be treated with formaldehyde or bleach.

If hyacinth is not properly cared for, the following problems may occur:

  • Hyacinth stops blooming. This is usually associated with a violation temperature regime. The plant does not like too high temperatures.
  • The leaves of the plant turn yellow. Most often this happens due to improper watering or drafts.
  • Leaves wither. This happens due to lack of natural light.
  • The buds are falling. This is due to improper watering. It must be carried out carefully so that water does not fall on the peduncle.
  • The flowers are rotting. This happens when the plant is “loved” too much (watered too much).

Hyacinth is a fairly unpretentious plant. Subject to proper care at home there will be no particular cause for concern. It can be successfully grown by both experienced and novice amateur gardeners.

Video - how to grow hyacinth at home

Articles on the topic

Hyacinth is a flower whose name is translated from Latin as flower of rain. It has this name due to its love for excessive moisture; there is also an assumption that it is so called because of the time of flowering of this plant in nature, namely in the spring during the rainy season.

Hyacinth is native to Southeast Asia. In most cases, this bulbous flower is grown in gardens, but it can also be done at home, but caring for the plant in this case is slightly different.

This unusually beautiful plant attracts attention thanks to its colorful and bright flowers, similar to small bells, which are located on a fleshy peduncle in the form of a racemose inflorescence. Flowers can be either simple or double in yellow, pink, blue, purple, indigo or white.


Bright green, smooth and fleshy leaves, in an amount of 5 to 8 pieces, form a rosette sprouting from the bulb, from which a peduncle emerges. The flower reaches a height of 30 cm. The flowering of Hyacinth is accompanied by a subtle pleasant aroma.

There are many types of Hyacinth, including: Ostara, Amethyst, Rosalia, Sunflower, La Victoire, Litvinova, Transcayspian, Arentina Arendsen.

But the most popular and widespread in home growing is


Forcing at home

Caring for Hyacinth is not difficult, but you need to follow some rules. The first rule is choosing a bulb, from which the flower will be grown. The size of the bulb in diameter must be at least 5 cm, it must be dense, not affected by rot, diseases and insects. The second rule is to create the necessary atmosphere for successful flower cultivation.

Choosing a pot and soil for planting bulbs

The vessel for diluting Hyacinth should be medium in size and have drainage holes at the bottom. From 1 to 3 bulbs sit in one container. They should not come into contact with each other or with the walls of the pot.

A layer of drainage must be laid out at the bottom of the pot; for this, you can use a layer of sand about 2 cm.

The bulb is not completely placed in the soil; its upper part should not be covered. The substrate used is one that has a neutral acidity level, since high acidity is not suitable for the flower. To avoid rotting of the bulb, the surface of the soil is also covered with sand.


After planting the bulbs, they need to create a dormant period of about two months. The flowerpot is placed in a dark, cool place, perhaps even in the refrigerator, the temperature should be +5-7 degrees. The soil needs to be watered occasionally to maintain constant moisture. During this time, the bulbs take root well and will produce flower stalks in the future. After the bulbs produce a pair of leaves, the flower is transferred to a bright place with a temperature no higher than +15 degrees.

And only when inflorescences form, the flowerpot is placed in a permanent place, where the plant is fully cared for.

Care during flowering

The flowering period of Hyacinth lasts on average about two weeks; during this period care is required, thanks to which the flowering will be lush and longer.

Lighting

Hyacinth loves light very much, he needs it at least 15 hours a day. If you place it in a place where there is not enough light, you need to additionally use artificial lighting sources. On hot summer days, the plant needs to be shaded to avoid direct sunlight.


Temperature

The best temperature for growing Hyacinth is +20-22 degrees. It is not recommended to keep the flower close to heating devices. You should also avoid drafts, as they can lead to the death of the flower.

Watering and spraying

The soil in the pot should always be slightly moist, this is especially important during flowering, active growth and wintering. You should also avoid stagnation of water, which can lead to rotting of the bulb and the development of fungal diseases. To do this, water is poured from the pan immediately after watering. One more important point There is a method of watering: To ensure that water does not fall on the bulb, in the axils of the leaves and buds, the water must be poured near the edge of the pot.

The water must be soft room temperature, it is good to use rain or melt water, preheating it.


Top dressing

The plant needs frequent feeding, about twice a month. To do this, use any universal fertilizer for indoor bulbous plants. Before feeding, you need to water the flower.

Care after flowering

Hyacinth, like all other flowering plants, fades over time. But in this case, its vital activity does not stop, but the care of the flower simply changes.

  • First the peduncle is cut off, the leaves remain, and caring for the flower continues until they die completely. After this, it is necessary to dry the bulbs and place the plant for a period of rest. To do this, the flower is removed from the pot, the roots are cleared of the soil, and the top of the plant is cut off at a distance of about one centimeter from the bulb.
  • The bulb is sprayed with a disinfectant solution, for example Fundazol, to avoid infection and remove the top unnecessary peel. Then the bulb is dried, at which time it must be turned periodically to dry completely.
  • When the bulb is completely dry, you need to wrap it in paper or sawdust and place it in a dark, dry place for 2-3 months, after which it can be planted again.

Video about caring for Hyacinth after flowering

Very often, flower growers adjust the flowering of Hyacinth to a certain time of the year, for example, to get an inflorescence on March 8, this must be done in October. For this purpose, a manipulation such as forcing - in this case, the bulbs are specially brought out of dormancy.

In this case, the planted bulbs are covered with a bag in which a hole is made so that the plant can breathe. Then the flower is grown, as with ordinary planting of bulbs.

Video about forcing Hyacinth by March 8

Reproduction methods

There are several ways to propagate Hyacinth. Among them: propagation by children, propagation by seeds, cutting the bottom and notching the bottom. At home, the first method is most often used, since the others are very time-consuming and complex; they are used by breeders and professionals.

On average, a bulb can produce 2-4 babies per year. They must be carefully separated from the mother bulb and planted in a separate container. If the baby is difficult to separate, then after a period of dormancy, the mother bulb is planted along with it and separated only after the next flowering of Hyacinth.

With this method of propagation, the plant blooms in 2-3 years.


Trimming

Pruning the peduncle is necessary after flowering has completed, because if fruits form after the flowers, this will drain all the strength from the flower. Also When the leaves dry, they are also cut off.

Diseases and pests

Most often, Hyacinth is resistant to various types of threats when grown at home, because when transplanting the bulbs are treated with disinfectants. But sometimes hyacinth is threatened by the following diseases and pests:

  • Bacterial rot. There are many causes of infection with this disease and various symptoms of its manifestation, for example, the appearance of black spots on the leaves, rotting of the bulb, drying out of the roots, etc. The disease can be dealt with only in industrial production, but at home this leads to the death of the flower. In this case, it is necessary to get rid of the plant and soil, and disinfect the pot.
  • Insects. For example: aphids, mites and others. You can get rid of them by spraying the flower with chemicals, but only before the flowering period.
  • Physiological disorders. These are deformations of the peduncle, for example, curvature or incorrect flowering, which appear in case of non-compliance with the “forcing” regime, or rather the cooling period.

The bulb is affected by rot

Peduncle deformation

Conclusion

Thus, p The problem of growing Hyacinth at home is not great, if you follow all the rules for caring for this flower, and also provide appropriate care for it during the dormant period. In this case, Hyacinth will delight with its beautiful and fragrant blooms.

Hyacinth Jan Bos (Jan Bos)- a wonderful primrose with lush inflorescences consisting of many bright flowers. If you want your garden to be maximally saturated with rich colors in early spring, then this variety of hyacinth is simply created for you.

Hyacinths Jan Bos bloom in early spring in March with bright and very fragrant flowers, forming a dense, lush inflorescence 12 cm high, studded with blooming flowers. The brush contains 18-26 dark crimson flowers with a diameter of 2.5-3 cm, plant height 20-25 cm. Hyacinth leaves prominent, bright green and shiny. Flowering duration is 2-3 weeks. HyacinthJan Bos Perfect for forcing, which even a beginner can handle, for decorating spring flower beds, and for cutting. Prefers a sunny or slightly shaded location, protected from strong winds.

It is recommended to dig up the bulbs after the leaves turn yellow. If you don’t dig up the bulbs, then next year they will bloom worse. Immediately after digging, the bulbs are dried for 5-7 days at 20° in a dark, ventilated room, cleaned of soil and residues. At the first stage, the bulbs are kept for at least 2 months at 25-26°, and at the second - 1 month at 17°. Hyacinths are planted from September to November, depending on the climatic features growing region. The distance between the bulbs in a row is 15-20 cm, planting depth is 12-15 cm, depending on the size of the bulb. Hyacinth propagation occurs by baby bulbs in the fall. With the onset of persistent cold weather, it is advisable to cover the hyacinths. To do this, you can use mulching materials such as dry peat, humus, sawdust, as well as dry fallen leaves, and in the spring, as soon as the soil begins to thaw, the cover must be carefully removed, since hyacinth sprouts appear very early.

Delivery of hyacinth bulbs Jan Bos (Jan Bos) carried out using the services of the Russian Post and transport companies, delivery by air mail and courier is possible.

In order to order and buy hyacinth bulbs Jan Bos (Jan Bos) In our online store of seedlings and flowers, use the “Add to cart” button, after filling it, click “Place an order”. Dispatch hyacinth bulbs carried out from September 1.

We sell only professional bulbs that will guaranteed to be the variety you need, excellent quality and high viability.

The price for hyacinth bulb is indicated for 1 piece.

Order conditions: Hyacinth bulbs are available to order individually, minimum order 3 pcs. of this variety.

Current discounts on hyacinth bulbs:

When ordering from 10 to 19 bulbs of 1st grade 10% discount

When ordering from 20 to 49 bulbs of 1st grade 20% discount

When ordering from 50 to 99 bulbs of 1st grade 30% discount

When ordering more than 100 pieces of one type 50% discount

Delivery terms:

Orders with hyacinth bulbs are sent only in the autumn season (shipping restrictions in accordance with climatic zone customer).

Do you think hyacinth is a flower? No, this is the name of a young man, the beloved friend of the Greek god Apollo. The young men often amused themselves by throwing the disc one at a time. But god's jealousy Western winds led to misfortune. And so Hyacinth bleeds in the arms of his friend, the god Apollo. Apollo could not help him in any way, only in memory of his friend he created a unique flower and named it Hyacinth.

It turns out that thanks to whom many women receive a deliciously smelling gift on March 8th. Moreover, there is such a variety of colors: white, pale yellow, pink (any tone), lilac, blue, indigo, red, violet.

Growing hyacinths at home

Looking at the hyacinth, everyone will think: “I want it!” Want! Want!". If you want it, everything will happen, but you have to try. “Hyacinth” is a Greek word that translates to “flower of the rains,” perhaps because the grower has to put a lot of sweat into growing it. This, of course, is a joke, but you need to not only know the peculiarities of cultivation, but also methodically adhere to them.

Let us first note that additional lighting and supports for flower stalks may be necessary (the inflorescences are too heavy). Our goal is to get as close as possible to the conditions of the natural environment - South Asia and the Mediterranean.

Choosing a location, suitable temperature and light

This is a complex matter, as all the following factors must be taken into account:

  • daylight hours are required for approximately 15 hours (windows to the south or southeast are suitable, others require additional lighting - extending daylight hours);
  • the flower loves light, but not heat - a comfortable temperature is a little more than 20˚C - so in the summer you will have to remove the flowerpot from direct sun or shade it;
  • does not tolerate drafts or sudden changes in temperature;
  • loves walks on the terrace or balcony at the right temperature;
  • in winter, proximity to heating devices is unacceptable.

Creating the necessary air and soil humidity

Everything is simple here - you must not allow the soil to dry out, on the one hand, or the bulbs and leaves to rot, on the other. Water regularly, along the walls of the pot, not reaching the bulbs. Drain excess water from the pan. Hyacinth does not need spraying, and during flowering this procedure is prohibited.

Soil selection, fertilizer

The choice of soil mixture is important; neutral soil is suitable for hyacinth; it is ideal to use leaf and turf soil, peat, humus and sand in equal proportions. No fresh organics. Pre-heat the earth for 1.5 hours in the oven for disinfection. For lush flowering, the plant will need strength, which means fertilizing is required (with conventional complex fertilizers for flowering plants). The first time at the beginning of the growing season, then during the budding period, maybe a little in the final phase of flowering.

How to choose planting material

The key to beautiful flowering is a high-quality bulb. Bulbs should be selected in flower shops according to the following parameters:

  • the diameter of the bulb is at least five centimeters;
  • no damage or rottenness;
  • the bulb is dense, not dry;
  • The best time to buy bulbs is August.

If you purchase, then the stem and peduncle should be erect.

Forcing hyacinth How to adjust the beginning of flowering to a certain date?

It can be calculated very roughly as follows: from planting to flowering it takes about 2.5 months, the plant itself blooms for 10-18 days (depending on the variety), so it’s easy to calculate. We want to start in mid-October for the New Year, for Valentine's Day - the end of November, for March 8 - the 20th of December. Before buying bulbs, carefully read the growing conditions - the most important thing is that the three phases of forcing require different temperatures(that means a different place).

First stage– we plant the bulb in a pot and imitate winter. For 1.5 -2 months we keep the pot at a temperature of up to 8˚C and in complete darkness. This could be the cellar, or, failing that, the lower section of the refrigerator (cover the pot with a bag). We move on to the next stage when the emerging sprout reaches 5 cm. We keep the substrate in the flowerpot constantly moist; drying out is unacceptable.

Second phase– temperature increase by 5 -7 ˚С (spring is coming), the room is still darkened. Gradually you can move closer to the window, adding light. We are waiting for the buds to appear.

Third stage– flowering takes place in good light and a temperature of about 20 ˚С. The golden rule is no sudden changes in heat or heat, otherwise you won’t see flowers.

Planting hyacinth at home

Fill the pot with nutritious soil to two-thirds of its height. No need to compact.

Plant the bulbs at half height so that the tops are on the surface. This way the hyacinth will not get putrefactive diseases and will develop well.

After you carefully water it without touching it, place the pot in a cool, dark place. When the leaves are 7-8 cm in height, the pot should be placed on a sunny windowsill.

If you have imagined the whole process and found places with a suitable temperature, go ahead and plant the bulbs. This is a simple matter.

  • You can choose individual flowerpots 5 cm wider than the bulb, or you can place hyacinths in a container several at a time (at a distance of 2-3 cm) - this way the flowers look more impressive.
  • Be sure to place drainage at the bottom of the container, then soil, do not fill it to the top so that the planted bulb peeks 2 cm out of the soil.
  • We plant the bulbs (not close to the edge of the container), compact the soil and water generously.
  • A layer of sand (up to 1 cm) can be poured on top to prevent the bulbs from rotting. We cover everything with a dark film (ventilation holes are required) and in the “winter”, for the first phase.

Hyacinth at home after flowering

The eastern name for hyacinth is “Guria Curls.” Now they have blossomed, delighting us with their curls and wonderful aroma, now it’s time to rest.

What to do with home hyacinth after flowering:

  • The flower has faded - cut off the peduncle. During the dormant period, we adhere to moderate watering, giving the plant the opportunity to form “babies” and gain strength for the main bulb.
  • We feed the plant with complex fertilizer.
  • Only after the leaves have completely dried should you dig up the bulb.
  • Inspect carefully, air dry, remove the dry husks, let the too small “babies” remain with the “mother”, and the larger ones can be separated.
  • All of them must be thoroughly dried - for the first week even at 30˚C, then another 2 weeks at 25˚C, and before planting - at a temperature of 17˚C and high humidity (so that the bulb does not dry out). This is a very important stage, because right now the future inflorescence and small children are being formed (therefore, the next time you plant, you need to be careful not to damage them).

In the fall, hyacinth bulbs need to be planted in the ground in a flower bed so that they can recover after flowering at home. Plant them deeper (15-20 cm) so that they do not freeze, and cover with a 10 cm layer of mulch. Remove the cover in spring. The plants may not bloom in the spring, but they will be perfectly prepared for the next forcing in the new season. In the fall, the bulbs can be dug up, dried and stored in a cool place until planted in a pot. The bulbs can form babies; it is better to carefully separate them and leave them in the flowerbed; they will grow for 4-5 years until they reach the size of adult bulbs. Only then can they be used for forcing at home.

How to propagate hyacinths at home

  • A faded plant is not suitable for re-forcing the house - it must be planted in open ground (in the fall, even in a flowerbed at the entrance) so that it gains strength.
  • If you plan to grow it again at home in a year, then the hyacinth should not bloom in the ground this year (you will have to cut off the peduncle).
  • A small baby can be grown to normal size in 3-4 years so that it is suitable for forcing at home.
  • Over these years, the “cubs” will go through periods of growing season without flowering, gradually gaining power.

This is where a sensible idea arises: to obtain it, buy ready-made planting material, and let it be grown in nurseries.

Diseases and pests

The flower is occasionally affected by yellow bacterial rot, which, alas, nothing can be done about. The plant and soil will have to be thrown away, and if the pot is planned to be used further, it must be disinfected.
Pests can be:

  • spider mite;
  • nematodes;

Insecticides are used to combat them, although this cannot be done during the flowering period.
Possible problems when caring for hyacinth at home:

  • yellow leaves - a draft and watering into the outlet are to blame;
  • leaves wither - lack of lighting;
  • buds falling off - water gets on the buds, a sharp change in temperature;
  • cessation of flowering - the flower is hot;
  • rotting - chronic waterlogging.

Conclusion: you can grow hyacinth with patience and care. Grow wisely and enjoy luxurious blooms!

Description of hyacinth

Hyacinths photo when to plant at home Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Delft Blue’ photo

Hyacinth is now classified as a member of the Asparagus family, although previously it was classified as a separate Hyacinth family or included in the Liliaceae family. This bulbous perennial is considered to be a native of Asia Minor, but Dutch breeders worked so hard to develop new varieties, spread the flower and bulbs that it can be considered a truly modern “Dutch”.

Hyacinth is a plant up to 30 cm high; a stem and oblong leaves grow from a dense bulb. Hyacinth flowers - small bells with curled leaves - are collected in a dense cone-shaped inflorescence (reminiscent of an ear). The flowers are simple and double in appearance.

At the end of flowering, both the peduncle and the leaves dry out, you need to look for small baby bulbs in the corners of the leaves (they can be further used for propagation), and the main bulb develops on the stem inside the mother bulb.
Has proven itself perfectly at home, also in open ground(where it is one of the first to emerge from the ground in spring). This is not unfounded, this is evidenced by more than four hundred years of experience in breeding hyacinths. During this time, about 30 species were classified as this species, including half a thousand different varieties of plants.

However, today there are three types of hyacinths:

  • eastern (Hyacinthus orientalis);
  • Litvinova (Hyacinthus litwinowii);
  • Transcaspian (Hyacinthus transcaspicus).

It is on their basis that all the variety of shapes and colors of these plants is created.

Types and varieties of hyacinth with photos and descriptions

Eastern hyacinth Hyacinthus orientalis- the same great-grandfather of most of today's varieties. Flowers with a delicate aroma are loosely placed on a thin peduncle. Can be any shade of white, yellow, pink or blue. It can be found in the wild in Lebanon, Turkey or Syria.

Hyacinth Litvinov Hyacinthus litwinowii– has bluish leaves and light blue flowers with protruding stamens. Natural range: Iran, Turkmenistan.

Transcaspian hyacinth Hyacinthus transcaspicus– a low-growing flower (up to 20 cm), has up to two stems, the leaves are equally thick along the entire length. There are no more than a dozen flowers in a loose inflorescence. Natural place – mountains of Turkmenistan.
Another classification of hyacinths is their division by color:

  • — Arentine Arendsen (white or cream flowers), double Snow Crystal and Madame Sophie;

  • — Yellow Hammer (rich yellow), Oranje Boven (pale yellow), City of Haarlem (salmon);

  • pink - Anna Marie (light pink), Gertruda (deep pink), Moreno (pink with a dark crimson stripe);
  • red - La Victoire, Tubergen’s Scarlet, Hollyhock (terry);

  • lilac – Bismarck (pale), Blue Magic (red-violet), Indigo King (dark purple);
  • blue - Queen of the Blues (pale blue), Perle Brillante (fawn blue), Marie (rich blue).